Door lock actuators

I have a 2014 1794 with 34000 miles, and within a month I had to replace both drivers side door lock actuators. I'm fortunate that it was covered under waranty. Has this been an issue with anyone else

 

Never heard of that problem

 

The dealership was very suprised, didn't even have them in stock had to order them.

 

Yes, it has been an on-going issue with second & third gen. Mine has been doing it for almost as long as I've owned my truck. In my research I read that owners as far back as 2008 have been having this issue. Stealerships that say they've never heard of this are full of shit. I've been told that Toyota is close to issuing a service bulletin. I used to work with a guy who's dad is a mechanic for Toyota. All four of my locks are now completely mechanical. Toyota didn't have the good sense to put a door key on the passenger door so now I have to leave my wife & kids standing outside the truck while I let myself in, with the key, & then climb across to reach the unlock lever. I'm to the point that I hate my truck.

 

Nice to know this is still an issue with the 3rd gens should I upgrade. As mentioned it’s been an ongoing problem with 2nd gens, and apparently 3rd too which I wasn’t aware of.

My passenger side went out right after my bumper to bumper warranty ran out on my 2013. Go figure. Had that one fixed since it was a pain reaching across to unlock the door for my wife. Now my drivers side is intermittently not working. No plan on paying to get this fixed right now since it’s easier to deal with the drivers side not working.

 

Unreal, I bought the truck thinking it was Toyota reliable. Door actuators shouldn't be an issue on any vehicle.

 

Well, it will run forever. Personally I look at reliability as more powertrain. Does the vehicle start everytime and get me where I need to go without issue.

Not to excuse other issues but that’s more of a quality issue. Again, just how I personally view reliability issues versus quality issues.

 

True, I do love my truck.

 

From my research it seems that the door lock motor is the problem. I have read that people think that the motor is undersized. The motor is made by Mabuchi. I saw a write-up either on this site or the other that described the process of getting into the door & then into the actuator assembly to replace the motor with a motor that has the same specs. I haven't done this because I only want to do it once. Replacing with a like motor is setting yourself up for failure, in my opinion. I have researched these little motors & tried to find one with more torque.
I have these two written down but I don't think that their specs are any better than stock (it been a while):
FC-280PT-22125 (stock?)

$10 FC-280PC-22125 Central Door Lock Actuator Motor, ROUND SHAFT, Circle Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine Replaces Mabuchi

FC-280PC-22125
they both have the exact same torque rating of 4.76mn-m (49g-cm)
If someone who is familiar with these types of things could sort this out it would be a huge benefit to the community in the future as more begin to fail.

 

Defiantly worth looking into. Thanks for the info.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FC-280PC-22125-electric-motor-vehicle-rearview-mirror-door-lock-motor/1303767368.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0m__FBSI9o

 

I just replaced the front passenger door lock actuator a week ago and now the driver side rear actuator just quit working... Its really frustrating when my truck only has 50k miles. This is why I buy Toyota's, so I don't have to deal with these kinds of issues. I'm a little upset considering the part is $150-$400 depending on who makes it and where you buy it from. I NEVER had problems like this on my first gen Tundra during the 10 years I owned it.

 

That's what happened to mine. Drivers door went than rear on same side went. Hopefully the other side will be good.

 

I just replaced the internal motor of the passanger actuator this past weekend. Was harder to get the accuator out than replace the motor

 

Did you go with a stronger motor?

 

I had to replace my drivers side actuator on my 2010, after owning it 4 years. Then the passenger side started going bad. I bought my replacement from Amazon!

 

Believe I have this issue on my passenger door. 31k on the odometer so luckily it will be covered under warranty. Called the dealer and they have one in stock so I should be back in business tomorrow. This is one of the many reasons why this site is awesome!! Searched for door lock stopped working, found this and the research is done! Any question I have about the truck can be found here. Great people and great info! Thanks for posting this up.

 

Am I correctly assuming that this thread is the answer to my problem as to why my key fob unlock button and button on the door won’t unlock/lock the driver side door but the key will?

 

More than likely yes. This was my problem. Took it to the dealer, they immediately said it was the actuator and replaced it. Not sure of cost as mine was under warranty.

 

Thanks for the info. Hopefully the cost of replacing mine will be covered since it is Certified Pre-Owned. I asked them to look at the locks when I took it in for a new battery and of course the locks worked fine when they inspected it.

 

Hopefully they took note that you previously asked about it and that could help your case to have it covered. Good luck!

 

I just replaced the driver door lock actuator. Initially I bought an aftermarket actuator from 1A auto. It felt sticky, cheap. Just poor overall action.

I then ordered the actuator motor as described in the videos above. Followed directions, and now have my OE lock actuator back in the door and it works great. I just want to thank the guy who researched and made the videos. They are great.

The aftermarket actuator is going back. It’s a great fix for less than $10. My mechanic quoted me $hundreds to fix it. They wanted to replace the whole assembly.

 

2016 with 44k it my driver is out, ordered a $39 replacement on Amazon so we'll see how it holds up

 

My driver door actuator is out. Super annoying.

 

My advice would be to just replace the motor. It’s not that much more work than replacing the whole actuator. There is a reason that the ones on Amazon are only $60 versus the $250ish for OEM parts. I just tried a cheap replacement. The action on it was bad enough that I replaced the motor on my oem actuator anyway. Plus, it’s a $7 part.

 

I’m going on my 4th set of actuators on my ‘07 Crewmax. First set Toyota replaced under warranty. 2nd time was out of warranty, so it was on me. They're all dead again. I’m tired of keying it open and reaching across to let pax in.

 

@Tundra44 Post #5 in the link below has links to all the materials you need. Follow the two videos above and save yourself 2k. I paid for 1 actuator out of pocket. Never again. I just replaced my rear driver door a few weeks ago. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/door-lock-actuators.41266/#post-1105969

 

Fuck you 2018 Mike. Jinxed yourself.

My rear passenger one went out and Toyota quoted me $500 to fix it....looks like I’ll be ordering the motor and doing it myself here soon.

 

There was a video posted above. I found it before finding this thread and that guy is holding the camera while trying to show how to do the repair. I found a fella doing the same repair on a Camry but it's the same relative process and just wanted to share for additional clarification. This worked great for me. All 4 doors were acting up.

 

Toyota has seriously got to get their act together. My wife's 2012 Camry has had the same issue. All four actuators work intermittently or most times not at all. I've taken them apart just to see if there was anything I could fix and found heavy carbon buildup on the motor brushes. My only conclusion is this carbon buildup is limiting currant flow. I have a 2016 Tundra DC that so far is working fine. I try not to use the keyless entry more than necessary to hopefully make them last longer (which I shouldn't have to do). I've never had another vehicle have this problem and I've driven Fords, Nissan, Dodge and other Toyotas. Toyota's interior quality has really gone to crap over the past decade. I have however read reviews of the Autozone brand actuators and most people say they work great with a lifetime warranty. Most people that have replaced with factory OEM actuators usually have problems again down the line.