door lock actuators

I have had all 4 door lock actuators replaced at least once. Looks like another went bad. So the 1st 4 took 8 separate trips to dealership, 1 to diagnose and 1 to repair. Luckily under warranty but a huge nuisance. I just had another go bad for the 2nd time, now my extended warranty has ended. My question is will Toyota pay for replacement? I do not know how this is not a recall issue. To me it's a potential safety hazard. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

 

my drivers door lock actuator went bad 2 weeks after 3 years at 39,000 miles dealer said no warranty. toyota offered to pay for parts if i paid labor not a bad deal since part was $350 but i really dont like to let flat rate techs work on my vehicles (i am a flat rate tech myself). so i went online did a little research found that all that goes bad is little motor inside actuator, got 4 of them on Amazon for $28 less than an hour later i had power locks again. hopefully holds up supposedly better quality motor

 

Do you have a link to the lock motors?

How much of a pain to replace? For a non-flat rate tech.

 

link to motors

$16 4 Pack - 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDIFLAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i ordered this too you have to tear off old stuff

$10 Yotache Weather Stripping Door Seal Strip 1/4" x 1/8", 3 Rolls x 16.5ft, New Adhesive Foam Insulation Seal Tape for Door Jamb Frame, Windows, Total 50ft

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H5948V4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it really was easy, im sure there are plenty of youtube videos to show you how

 

Welcome from NorCal. You're the first I've heard of with this issue but sounds like there's an easy and affordable fix. Still a PITA.

 

Thank you

 

not very difficult to change yourself. I did one on the wife SUV. took about 20 min once the door panel was out.
definitely DIY

 

I've had two go bad on me so far...

 

My 2 front door locks are toasted and the back doors are going (double cab). They work 99% of the time.

I’d likely just replace all 4 at once.

 

Literally just got done replacing the motor on my Tundra actuator. Really pretty easy. Just make sure when re-installing the actuator that the rod for the outside door handle goes through it's home on the actuator. Thank goodness for YouTube video's and you guys.

 

Just wanted to add a thanks to this thread. 29k miles and my tundra actuators have been failing for months. Both front doors finally crapped out and I had them replaced under warranty but that’s up soon so I’m thrilled to have a cheaper, less wasteful option.

 

First, OP, Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! Next, thanks for this. I haven't heard much abut these actuators going out, but it's good to know there's an inexpensive, easy fix!

 

My wifes Highlander is down to 1 working door, looks like the motor will also work for the Highlander. Thanks for the link.

 

Hmmm, my wife's Highlander (2012) has over 350k miles and we've never had an issue with this.

 

I know this is an old thread but want to say thanks to @Tundraplatinum for posting the links. My driver side keyless entry works about half the time, so going to replace the actuator and see if that does the trick.

 

How are the motors now? I think I'm going to have to replace a few, myself.

 

Here are the P/N for that piece of plastic if anyone needs a new one.

Door Water Deflector (Right, Front) 678310C050

Door Water Deflector (Left, Front) 678320C030

 

Well, I had the drivers lock replaced with a factory unit around 30k miles, it’s dead now at 44k miles. A couple months later I put one of these cheap motors in the passenger door, which is still working.

 

77k miles and no issues with mine

 

Thanks, yeah I might just do all 4 and get it done and over with. I have a 2018 with 102k on it right now, bought brand new. The horn also does not "beep" when I double click the lock button on the key.

 

I was having other door lock issues and a starting issue. Found corrosion on the negative battery terminal. I replaced it and it fixed my other electrical Gremlins.

if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I wouldn’t replace anything until it breaks.

 

My driver side went out about a year and 1/2 ago. Ordered from car parts .com. 1st part came broken. Sent it back. 2nd part came broken too and was the wrong one. Auto zone couldn’t get one. I got frustrated Soooo, I’ve been using my key until I decide to get one.

 

Try Rockauto?