Ball joints upper and lower

just wondering how hard it is to switch out the ball joints. Want to do them but not sure how long. And what kind should I roll with.?

 

What year truck?

 

06 dc limited

 

I'm not super familiar with 2nd gen as it's been a while since I had one. But, I think Moog is good brand and with a simple press type tool that you can either buy (I bought one for about $25) or rent it should be pretty easy.

 

where did you find a press for 25.00 will it work on the upper joints on a 04 tundra

 

Welcome!

 

Welcome also!

 

the cheapest i found was on ebay for about 75.00 for a 21 pcs kit

 

U rent the press.
The socket is a Toyota Honda socket
Powerbuilt 641321 Lower Ball Joint Adapter Kit for Honda

$45 Powerbuilt Honda Lower Ball Joint Adapter Kit, Remove Replace Install Ball Joints, Brake Anchor Pins Service Set - 641321

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QPLM6U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GdcCAb04KPC88

 

where i am you either rent to whole kit or buy it 125.00+ any auto part in houston tx and thats for a 12 pcs i can buy a 21 pcs ebay 75

 

The press from autozone has a few you can use.. but the one that works best is the Honda/toyota socket I linked.

 

Press kit is expensive.
The Honda/toyota socket is like $20-$30

 

Stay away from Moog Lower's. We see too many fail under a year, yes they have a lifetime warranty but who wants to change them out for a "Lifetime". On that model Tundra OEM or 555 is the best route. Watching trucks come in on the slidebed with a sheared lower ball joint is a scary site.

 

What are pressing? There's 4 bolts and you replace the arm with the ball joint in it. Most time you need Oxy/Acl torches to heat up the metal surrounding those bolts. Go to Rock Auto and order the Beck Arnley ones, If you better, go to the dealer....mooge sucks. I had a Mooge only last 2 years, The Becks are holding up. $114 shipped for the pair. go to web crawler and find the 5% off discount code. Besides those 4 bolts, very easy job. (I've been using Beck/Arnley parts for 30 years.)

 

So....the dreaded LBJ issue carried over from 4runners to the tundras? Good to know not to go aftermarket on them! Whats the recommended change interval?

 

I don't know if there's a recommended change interval for LBJ's. Just something you have to monitor (leaks, creaks, play in wheel, etc.).

I purchased a set of the Moog lowers but have not installed them yet. The arms themselves are good quality, but obviously I have no idea about the bushings and bj's they come with. My lowers were made/assembled in Taiwan. Doesn't necessarily mean the bushings/bj's were made there, too. I'm looking at replacing the bj's that they came assembled with with the Moog K-series bj that might still be made in Japan or the Beck Arnley.

 

Thanks Lou. Being as my truck has 207k now....I think the ball joints were replaced at 30k or so (recall) its probably about time to replace them. The parts list is growing.....again. UGH.

 

I have a 2000 Tundra and replacing the LBJ’s. I was just wondering if I should replace the UBJ’s as well while I’m at it?Is it a big price difference in labor since I’m probably going to have a shop do the change for me? I bought the OEM LBJ’s but should I purchase uppers too, and if so do they have to be oem as well? Thanks for any advice.

 

Yes, stick with OEM. They may charge you more for the uppers as they have to be pressed out. The lowers are a lot easier.

 

Hammer is your best bet

 

Hammer has always worked for me. You only need a press if your trying to reuse the BJ.

 

Just checked at a local shop that specializes on Toyota's and they are charging $760 for just service to replace upper and lower ball joints. I am supplying the parts. Does that sound right? I am just waiting to hear back from a few other shops to see what they would charge.

 

Sounds like they are assuming 6-7 hours of labor. Seems high. The lowers are supposed to be pretty easy. You might want to consider doing at least those yourself. Should be videos online. Or find another shop. Ball joints aren't all that complicated. Have a good independent shops near you.

I paid $700 in labor to have new ball joints, tie rods, coilovers and upper control arms installed. That was 7 hours of labor.

So I think you can find a better price.

 

That's what I was thinking as well. The shop quoted $430 for the lowers and $330 for the uppers. I thought I'd be able to do the lower but figured if they are doing the upper ball joints might as well swap out the lowers too but if it's going to be another $430 then I can just do that myself. Seems weird that they would charge more for the lower since it is easier to change out and you don't have to press the joint into the knuckle like you do the uppers.

 

I’m guessing markup on the lowers is what brings it above the price of the uppers. Lowers can be done super fast if you have all the tools(like a shop would.

 

Lowers are a ten minute job with a hammer and a wrench once the tire is off.

 

Yeah that’s why I was wondering why that price was so high. Guess I’ll look elsewhere than that shop.

 

If you are going to own an old truck you have to learn how to be your own mechanic or become independently wealthy. Ball joints are a great place to start. Once you do your first one you wont believe you ever even thought about paying someone to do it.

 

Cool, thanks. I’m a teacher so I’ll have some time to get that done over the Christmas break! I’ll get those lowers taken care of myself then.

 

This is a decent video on how to do it. This guy uses a ball joint press, which you can buy or rent pretty easily...

I use a hammer to accomplish the same thing, albeit, louder and harder. If you use hammer find a metric nut, any nut and thread it over the end of your tie-rod end joint when you remove it so you are hammering on the nut, rather than the threaded bolt. (Unless you are also replacing your tie-rod) With the lower ball joint, it doesn't matter if you bung up the threads, because you are replacing it anyway.

DON'T just use the castle nut that you took off the tie-rod end or lower ball joint, its soft and the way its made can still screw up the threads if you hammer on it.

One of the great things about working on suspension parts is that you aren't dealing with fragile little parts, but rather big, solid chunks of metal meant to take the abuse of driving so you can be a lot rougher than you can generally be compared to say, replacing a leaking valve cover gasket or something. Its one class of repairs where it is acceptable to just get a bigger hammer if you run into trouble.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6evii7Ki-4M