Ticking noise in drive on cold start

Recently on cold starts if I put the truck in gear and start accelerating I hear a ticking noise that gets louder as RPMs increase. If I let the engine warm up for a few minutes, no ticking noise when putting it in gear I was thinking something to do with the transmission. Transmission doesn’t seem to be slipping at all other than normal tundra, searching for gears

 

Sounds like a cracked exhaust manifold. When it heats up the manifold expands and crack/leak closes. I left mine ticking for 100K miles, then I replaced the manifold just cuz. It started ticking again after another 50k miles.

 

Yup, cracked manifolds. Mines been ticking for years. The fix is new manifolds or headers. A new steering shaft seal will quite the noise. See this thread fore more info, plus extra info if you're new to the 1st gen tundra.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Heat causes expansion in metal, if it subsides with heat, manifold cracking is high on the list as @ChattanoogaPhil pointed out.

That's one of the things covered in the "Everything you need to know about your 1st gen" community info thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

• Cracked exhaust manifolds: Common in the earlier model 1GT, lends to ticks, rattles, etc. If the ticking stops when the engine heats up, it's probably an exhaust manifold.

• Noise transfer to cab, ticking etc. - Steering shaft seal tends to blow out, see here. Ticking-wise, the injectors are pretty damn noisy on these trucks, and many complain about it. The ticking sound can be intermittent depending whether the engine is warm or cold.

Thread is worth a read.

 

Mine does same since about 75K miles

 

If you take the exhaust manifold that is leaking off, can you have it welded or does it have to be replaced???

 

Cast iron is supposedly finicky to weld otherwise you’d hear more people doing it.

 

Just a FYI, this is an expensive repair if you have a shop do it. The 4.7L 2uzfe in my gx470 needed new exhaust manifolds due to exhaust fumes and a loud ticking on cold start along with a check engine light. All in this repair cost $4k (almost to the dollar) this past spring. The parts are expensive because the primary cats are built into the exhaust manifolds and the labor is high because of rust and extremely tight working area.
You probably want to use new OEM parts because of the high labor cost. If the welded repaired manifold were to fail, that labor bill is high . Initially, I actually had this repair done with aftermarket exhaust manifolds and they failed (broken weld at the flange) within 2.5 years. That was an expensive lesson.