What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Ratchet strap around the shock to the frame. Screw driver inserted in the lower shock mount hole opposite of the insertion side to pry and get it lined up to insert the bolt through.

 

I actually have a ratchet strap on the frame now cuz it kept wanting to slip back out. And tried a screwdriver but its bending. But Im gonna keep playing around with your idea and a better screwdriver! Thanks so much!

 

Did you loosen the LCA CAM adjustment bolts to give you maximum play with the LCA or are you avoiding it so you won’t need an alignment?

You can also put a bar through the shock eye and twist the shock to line it up with the tabs, but it sounds like you don’t need that now.

 

I finally have a spare tire again. No @KNABORES , this rim isn’t gold either. I stole this out a 22 4Runner

 

Im aligned pretty good so thats fine. But I did not loosen the LCA CAM adjustment bolts. I figured I would get an alignment anyways, so if loosening those will give me more downtravel then i wouldnt mind doing that.
Would loosening those help me come down further or just side to side?

 

It’ll help you come down further so long as the coil doesn’t bump up against the frame (which it shouldn’t) since now moving inwards to move further down.

Also, it’s probably wise since you want zero twist on the LCA bushings when you torque them down with the load on the tires.

 

Ill give that a try after i eat my dinner and have a NA beer to help calm my nerves LOL. Any maybe some of my homegrown stuff to put me in a better mindset haha

 

I still need to get a new spare muhself. Something in 33” flavor.

 

https://youtu.be/WwJJmkj4tZQ?si=AlJ9O-wphSM5l3W6

Today I got the third brake light wired on my cap. I still have to do the dome light, but I wired it to the brake first, because the directions had the wires reversed. So at least I know the dome light works.

https://youtu.be/AsQRWXt9h6I?si=4CnKWxsrucQwuMHn

 

What happened to you old spare?

 

Now im wondering if i need aftermarket UCA's for the extended travel coilovers that I have. I knew that was a thing but wasnt sure if it would be required. Will that be something I will need with these extended travel coilovers. They are about 5/8" longer than stock if im not mistaken.

 

Not required.
But if you have the skrilla, the Solo LCAs are pretty sweeet and compliment my extended travel Kings. But I ran stock LCAs with the Kings for like two or three years.



Edit: I just realized you asked about UCAs, not LCAs ... Yes you will need off roady UCAs. Don't get Freedumb or KSP. They are eBay garbage from China.

I have SPC. People also like Total Chaos, Camburg, and JBA.

 

From what I’ve seen here, and I’m no expert, I’m guessing it depends upon how close your upper control arm and knuckle come to touching your tires when fully extended. That’s at least one condition I’m aware of after being here awhile.

 

@455h0le_dachshund Great to know man! And yea i "could" afford the Solo LCAs but i probably shouldnt right now lol.

But really good to know that it shouldnt be an issue. How did you go about wrestling your extended travel kings in with your stock LCAs? Any tips to add.

As of right now im taking a break for the evening and gonna try again after work tomorrow.

@Jack McCarthy I didnt try loosening the CAM bolts yet, but might give that a go tomorrow. Ive never loosened them before. Is there anything to be aware of? Just mark my current settings? Im gonna get it aligned anyways so would I just need to torque them down when back on its own weight?

 

@oscardog86 since you're in California, you should contact @RUSTYNUTS to see if he still wants to sell his new in box UCAs.
I can't remember what brand they are, but they are uniballs.

 

no, i think he’s worried about the ubj getting caught on a coil while drooping.

 

Good point. Thanks for the insight.

 

Iirc I just used a crowbar between the bottom shock bolt hole and the LCA, then a large screw driver to line up the holes and slide the bolt in. But again, I have SPC UCAs. I think your OEM UCAs are the source of you issue.and will continue to be an issue down the line once you have the coilovers installed. I never loosened the LCA bolts until I removed em to swap in the Solos.

 

Just mark as you stated and loosen the front bolts in front and the rear bolts in back. However, now that I recall, I had to pull the steering rack back a few inches to get full access to the rear bolts. That can be a pain, however I was replacing the bolts, so I had to pull them fully out so maybe not as bad as I thought. You’ll have to take a close look and assess.

 

Yeah the UBJ is likely maxed out and limiting the droop

 

Yea it seems like I get some good movement with the big pry bar I have and then it comes to a sudden stop and wont go any further. Which I agree, looks to me like the UCA ball joint has no more room to move.

 

Oh wait a minute, @oscardog86. If you’ve never loosened them, it might not a wise idea as it could open a can of worms. That’s in case the CAM adjustments are frozen. I’d have to think about that.

 

Well they dont look frozen and its been aligned before so I assume someone has loosened them before. But no, I havent loosened yet on this project or ever personally.

Edit: And yes I noticed that rear bolt is pretty close to the steering and would be hard to mess with unless moving it over a few inches like you said.

 

Dry rot. I needed a tire and the rim came with it. It’s a 17 so won’t fit the starfish

 

I could use a 3rd brake light! Super easy to install and it's been easy to put up and take down. Wish I'd got one sooner.