General Turbocharger Thread (formerly "Turbo Charging A Tundra!")

IMO, knowing how to control what you've got is the most important part of having it. Below is from the SCG-1 manual, which can be done drom the driver's seat, while in motion. It's actually one of the main reasons I went turbo.

 

What maf sensor are you running? Im assuming the video you posted for boost controller setup is your truck.

 

The maf sensor:



It comes with the turbo kit. Yep, that's my truck!



My bad, correction, if you mean the vacuum route video then that is not my truck. That is a video from Turbokits.com!

 

The kit comes with a maf sensor installed in the intake pipe adapter. (If you refer to that one!) There is a new custom maf sensor included with the kit different than this one. The specs should be here. I don't have it yet because it was included after I got my kit. Let me see if I find the post here.

 

Here is the custom maf sensor from turbokits.com: https://www.turbokits.com/2007-2021-tundra-5-7l-high-flow-mass-air-sensor-maf.html

 

Just added this to the first post. Thank you, Engine Masters.

Boost curves with and without an electronic boost controller. You can see the impacts of applying the opposing force against the WG spring via the controller and it is absolutely noticeable. It may actually be one of the primary reasons our Dragy times are so strong and why we feel such little lag.

 

@bflooks @Jego didnt see it under first post. may have missed it. what pin are yall tapping into for the boost controller?

 

What do you mean what pin?

 

We are using the scg-1 electronic boost controller that comes with the gauge, integrated controller, solenoid and maf sensor. Everything is plug and play. Each harness has its own unique connector. So far the only tap we talked about is the maf sensor harness (white wire) to log data using the pro-link cable with the HP log software.

But if you can share more info about your boost controller setup we can probably better understand your question and provide more help!

 

I'm with @centex on this one. What, specifically, are you asking?

If you are inquiring about switched power source, then I just used an 'add a circuit" fuse in the engine bay fuse box and I'm using (I think) the 10amp injector circuit to split add an additional (I think) 5amp circuit that is feeding the AEM water/methanol and the SCG-1. I don't have my truck right now to confirm, so the "I thinks" are the specific details I'm going based on memory for. I just needs to be a switched source and I don't like splicing into factory wires on a 50k mile new truck (when I installed). You could use almost anything, though.

 

Well sorry guys. I just purchased the ebc by itself no kit. From the videos and research I was doing was talking about plugging one wire into the ecm to control it through the tune and other to power source. May have misunderstood there info as most were using standalone systems. Guess I should have bought the kit.

 

Can always return this one. No biggie. Ill order the kit. One of those moments where I should have looked on here instead I impatiently ordered a part.

 

What part did you order?

 

Just the actual 3 port box. Same unit that comes in those kits

 

That's just the solenoid. The actual controller is the SCG-1. Solenoid Control Gauge.

 

Well hell guess i messed up all around. First electric boost controller. Ive only used manual ones in the past. Probably why they were running them into the ecm to control them through it. Thanks guys. Sorry for the newb issues

 

Yup. Need the SCG-1 as the brains to control it all.

FWIW, if you are using the HPT MPVi for logging/tuning, you can get the Prolink + cable and connect that to the SCG-1, allowing for you to data log boost.

 

Did some more research and it seems that since I'm twin that using 2 solenoids in line in the forums of others vehicles is reccomended so guess I needed it anyways.

Im using hp newest believe mvpi3 for all my tunning. Have thought about efi live since o have a 900whp cummins i am rebuilding but haven't seen much info on them with these trucks nor have I really looked.

 

Efi live doesn’t support the tundra. Just hpt.

 

Well I'll be skipping that one for now.

 

@Jego
so with your setup on the fuel system what fpr did you end up with and what pressure are you finding to be best?
im currently just running two aem inline 300 pumps to the factory system up front which is just pushing the fuel right back to the tank and so after videos on here and some issues with tune i believe its my issue. even if it isnt i want to run it as parallel lines instead of series

 

Another question.
With your wide band sensor are you guys replacing the down stream sensor with it or adding a new bung, if so roughly how far down the line is best for it to read correctly.
Talked with innovate this morning. The scg1 wont work with dual o2 sensors so I'll have to run a secondary w.b. to get both Bank accurate readings.(My exhaust runs 3" straight from stock manifolds to turbos with a flex a few feet back).

 

We run the wideband in the down pipe just after the exhaust housing and keep the rest of the factory o2’s in place farther down stream.

@e30cabrio runs a gauge that has dual widebands feeding into it but it’s a separate gauge from innovative.

 

Thanks. Probably best for my setup then to run new bungs I'll probably just throw them in between the 2 factory positions. When I ran my exhaust I put them pretty close back to same areas as factory.
Ill look and see what they have as I'm more interested in the scg1 for the boost controller but haven't checked to see if there is another system yet they have that will run it in a similar fashion or anyone else. Makes things interesting when you do something completely different from everyone else.

 

I think the manufacturers try to spec out where they are and it is usually in reference to where they are from the source, so take a look at the instructions for locations.

Example, section 2.5.1: https://www.innovatemotorsports.com...foY64R89lcs2-4FXHfWMMUn-CCT1dRKId8TksyB2EcwVr

 

thanks. i did some reading on ls forums. guys are saying mount in the factory position since turbos are in the back. that innovate and others recommend after turbo because before turbo causes the sensor to over heat and destroys it with the higher pressure there and with rear mounted you don't have that issue with turbos being further away from the manifold basically. i assume this is true since most turbos are right on the manifold. also worry that running them basically at the rear differential will cause a signal volt drop and inaccurate reading for the distance the signal needs to travel.

 

You want after turbo because that’s accurate for after combustion which is what the factory o2’s read. Putting O2’s pre turbo is inaccurate because its measuring pre boost and not post boost which is what you want for accurate tuning.

As far as rear mounted turbos, online I’ve read a few different methods and not 100% sure.

 

I haven't done it yet, but I've recently been considering upgrading the fuel system as part of the Stage 2 upgrade. My kit isn't installed yet; I'm doing it in stages and learning as I go . What I've learned from experienced people on the SC and TC area is that, for TC, upgrading the fuel lines is not necessary if you plan to maintain a maximum of 6/7 PSI.

Here's the post and replies from the SC thread, including recommendations for upgrading the fuel lines if needed. Also, @centex has an idea for a dual feed for each rail using a mechanical regulator.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-907

Based on Jesse's comments, the 650cc injectors, DW300 pump, and in-tank regulator upgrade seem to be sufficient for 6-7 PSI. They are currently doing some tests in that area. This will be my setup for now.

 

Not sure i understand the difference with pre boost or after boost on the exhaust statement though. In theory the only thing that would change is the amount of heat and pressure but at my distance it should be equal to running through a cat or muffler for the pressure. (Again just thinking out loud). i assume the amount of air/fuel mix in the exhaust would not change between the two areas. now i can see with your guys set ups that it would change the reading because of the 2 areas heat and pressure being so vastly different with the turbo being mounted that close to manifold. now i wouldnt install mine in the header/manifold like ive read a couple saying to do as the egts at that area are still far too high for what i would assume operating temp would be for the sensor it self and reverts to the statement that it would cause readings to be off similar to the front mount setups. again just thinking out loud with some reasoning on how everything works. i may be missing the whole thing.
Yeah thats what I got for rear mounted. Mixed emotions. But like I mentioned. I'd be worried about accurate read outs at that distance. May just be an over thought. also after looking at a crap ton of images of rear mounted turbos im finding 90% of them dont have an area after the turbo for a sensor to mounted. through google image sorting most look to have either a exhaust can right at the turbo or just a basic dump tube to route the exhaust away some. no area available on those for a sensor so there having to be inserted pre turbo i assume up stream. now maybe i should rethink the between the two factory position area and move further down like at back of transmission/ yoke area to reduce the egts further and give a better mixture of exhaust gases for maybe a change in readings. im going to try it and see what happens. seems almost everything on this setup is going to be a trial and error standpoint until i get some concrete data with it.

 

well im going to grab one that has a range up to 100 psi. and play around with it then. i know my factory one just stays wide open from the amount of pressure the two pumps are pushing. may have been the reason i ended up having to replace it a few months back. started not allowing enough pressure to the injectors and would randomly shut me down and i would basically have to let the truck sit for a few minutes to be able to start it back up and drive again. also having it set in a series from factory i believe is causing my bank 1 to not keep a consistent pressure with the pumps pushing so much and fpr is trying to operate and closing/opening very briefly which is making my lambda read outs on that bank 1 to drastically move up and down.(reaching with that statement) toby and i have been curious on why it does it. sensor seems to be fine. had to replace my down stream as something caught the wire but even with that one broken the read out was the same. bank 2 seems to be ok for standard fluctuation. b1 jumps back forth irractically unless under wot. for an idea of what we are seeing on my data logs. bank 1 is ranging at idle .85 to 1.23 same with cruise. bank 2 at idle are more like .9 to 1.08