Torn Rack Boot

As I am preparing to get ready to swap out my suspension with the Bilstein 6100/5160’s, as well as the GX460 brake upgrade, I climbed underneath my truck and noticed that the rack boots were torn, and there is oil/fluid everywhere as you can see. I don’t have a lot of experience in this realm, so I figured I’d reach out to get your guys’ expertise on what needs replacing, etc. Only other issues the truck has been having has been a slight steering shaking/vibration while driving on freeway, but hoping new suspension, alignment and tires will remedy that.

 

Question: Road shimmy. Where you feeling it, in the steering wheel, the seat, or at the pedals? And at what speeds (range) are you feeling it? Just curious, since those details will help pinpoint the source.

Can you give us any details about your truck? Year? Cab type? Looks to be 4WD?

When was the last time you greased all of the zerks on your driveshaft, slip yoke, etc? Those need to be done every 3.5k - 5k miles with NLGI moly-impregnated grease, and the slip yoke has a special fill process.

And are you aware your valve covers are (and this is very typical) or were leaking, profusely? You've got a shitload saturating your power steering lines there, coming off the rear of your passenger side head. Instructions to overhaul (with OEM part numbers) can be found listed here.

 

Shifty,

Vehicle Info: 2004 Tundra DC 4x4

I feel it mainly between approximately 40-60mph, but it’s always there. I have a previous thread from years ago about the topic, and we believed maybe my Method wheels were over tightened when installed. However, my suspension has been shot so I’m getting around to everything now.

As for greasing, I never have to be honest. I bought the vehicle with 195k miles, and I’m at 217k now. I have not had experience greasing those in my prior vehicles either so it sounds like I need to learn.

As for leaky valve covers, I was not, but I did notice the considerable build up down below

 

You do need to be greasing, because your u-joints can cause the exact symptoms you're describing and if you haven't been greasing, and they're not sealed (i.e. they have a zerk), they're probably dry as shit by now. Aand when they get dry, rust builds up between the needle bearings, and ... vibrations, heat, etc. But the shit part about it is, one they start vibrating, they send the vibrations everywhere, and will blow out your center support/carrier bearing, your pinion bearing, and your transmission output shaft bearing. All this shit is connected, and that's part of basic maintenance. Here's everything you need to know.

Is it definitively that? Not sure. But that would match the symptoms, especially if you feel it more in your seat and center console than in the steering wheel, pedals, or dash. And the fact you haven't greased your zerks in 22k miles is a shocker. If you need tips on grease guns etc., holler. There's a lot of bullshit on the market, and a hair of a learning curve with using one, like how easily you can airlock them, and some tips on storing your grease if you buy more than one tube. Everyone here is happy to guide the way, I'm sure. We all learn at some point...

I definitely see oil staining on the valve covers, but I'm not seeing anything on the manifold heat shields, so maybe I'm wrong. Is it possible the dripping is coming from the power steering reservoir houses I'm pointing arrows at here? What's your take, after checking that out? What's directly above that dirt/oil glom on those houses above the rack?

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It’s definitely a possibility that it’s coming from the power steering reservoir/houses. I think the prior owner used Purple Power or similar degreaser under the hood, so I’m going off of what just has fresh buildup.

As for greasing, if you have recommendations on the type of grease gun, grease and tips then I’ll take it for sure. I’ll be sure to get that taken care of.

As for the steering rack boot, what are your thoughts ?

 

that thread I linked has what you need to know. On grease guns, anything Lincoln makes is typically good, but make sure it's specifically "USA made", since the China/India made ones are pretty lackluster. I recommend watching a couple videos on YouTube that cover loading the grease gun, how to air-bleed it in the event you get airlocked. And as far as tips go, that thread covers it (I think). Learn how to lock onto a tip, get some practice. It may work best to hold it on the tip directly.

Boots. Replace. Note the two sides are usually a different part number, IIRC. I have yet to see anyone on here find a brand of aftermarket boot that doesn't tear within 1-2 years. OEM will last you another 10-20. I can run part numbers, if you'll bother to do one thing for me.

• Go HERE
• Scroll to the "Vehicle One Line Description"
• Write your year, cab type (just put DC, RC or AC), drivetrain and engine - in your case, 2005 DC V8/4WD (I think?) and maybe add if it's SR5 or Limited
• Click "Save"

It'll help us do things like this: Look up parts, give you vehicle-specific advice, provide very specific details on how to accomplish stuff.

Just know, I'm asking you to do this so we can help you better. Someone on here was a complete fucking asshole a few days back, accusing us of having "forum attitude" or similarly childish bullshit for asking them to fill out that blank in their profile. As if we sit on here and respond/help people to be elitist or something?

After you click 'Save', the info will show up under your forum username, and nobody will need to ask again.

 

I really appreciate the help you’re providing. I just updated my profile, as I didn’t even realize I hadn’t done that prior

 

No problem at all my brother.

If you wanted to buy OEM parts, you can get them direct from Toyota, and potentially pick up at your local dealer for a substantial discount.

You can re-use the smaller clamps. The larger Oetiker clamps are a cut-and-reclamp thing, and there's a special tool to clamp those.

• Passenger side boot/bellows: 45535-0C010
• Driver side boot/bellows: 45536-0C010
• Passenger side larger clamp: 90080-46271
  
• Driver side larger clamp: 90080-46272

Links will take you directly to the Toyota Parts Site (national) and from there, you can choose to pickup the parts from a local dealer - just know, some dealers will give you 20, 30, 40%+ discount if you order thru the site, but not every dealer offers the discount. If you don't see the MSRP price drop, substantially, when you click the "SHOP THIS DEALER" button, promptly click the BACK button on your browser, and choose the next-closest dealer. Some dealers are dicks, and charge full MSRP thru the national site (the default is 15-25% off), which is the same price they charge you when you call in an order, or walk up to the counter to order. This fun little hack is a great way to get OEM parts at nearly-aftermarket prices.

They also do national sales specials around major holidays. Labor Day is coming up, and they may be offering an additional 10-15% off as we get closer to end of month (but those discounts don't show up until you hit the cart, *IF* they're having a sale).

Lisle makes a great Oetiker clamp tool. There are also knockoffs of the Toyota OEM SST (specialty tool) for these clamps online. Some people just zip-tie the boots on.

Be sure to avoid twisting the boots! It looks like that's what someone did in your case: Installed aftermarket boots, and they twisted the damn things at install. Or they replaced or adjusted inner/outer tie rods while they were clamped. Can't tell which.

 

And just so you can see the discount you should expect by purchasing through Toyota's national site / National Parts Program (which not all dealers participate in, FYI)...

Here's the price my local dealer has on one of the bellows. MSRP is $40. They'll sell it to me for $27 if I order through the national parts site. $13 saved on one part, that's 30% off, just because I knew about this program. Not bad, eh? For a part that should last you another 15-20 years, versus aftermarket at 1-3 years, I'd say that's a helluva deal. Buy once, cry once - that's my motto. I have another dealer I can recommend in Alabama that will give you a similar discount, but is free shipping on orders over $75, and doesn't charge tax if you're outside their state. It's a great deal if you're ordering larger parts.

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Also, in case no-one has already mentioned it, look at the diagram carefully. The left and right boots are different and have different part numbers. Same thing goes for the Oetiker clamps. And as Oetikers have a very narrow 'range' for each size, getting the right one is important.

ETA- shifty' already hooked you up with the part numbers. Shoulda known he would be on top of it.

But, as I always tell people, I'd rather be told something important twice than not at all.

 

Agree w/ @shifty` that your PS reservoir hose is leaking. The larger one from the reservoir to the pump is PN 443348 and sells for around $30. The smaller one is more problematic. I had same issue and researched extensively. Toyota does not sell just that hose. You have to buy the entire assembly with hardline to the tune of $500. I also could not find at any of the hose suppliers, FLAPS or online. Ended up getting the sis song assembly from Rock Auto for like $100 and only using the rubber part. Recommend using the OEM spring clamp as it has better clamping power than the screw clamps. Recommend you plug your VIN into the EPC as power steering lines vary for different years. Also once you’ve replaced the boots and the reservoir hose recommend your clean everything with degreaser at the car wash so you can see if the high pressure hose or valve covers are leaking. I went with a Gates HP hose from Rock auto when mine later stared oozing PS fluid and had no issues with it.

 

I really appreciate all the help guys. I too figured a lot of the leaking was coming from the power steering hoses as that’s where a lot of the buildup appears to originate.

I’ll try to grease the zerk fittings on the U joints and such soon and see if that helps with the vibrations. Regardless it’s something that needs to be done.