General Supercharger Thread

I thought you only needed the full kit to remove the valves under the intake/SC? The full kit has sensors that plug in where the valves would. I have the full Hewitt kit, so I ditched the pumps, valves and associated tubing.

 

That purple is pimp

 

It has been suggested I look at the Hewitt Bypass ‘while I’m in there’..

 

Correct. The Hewitt driver plug keeps the 5 volt constant running without interruption when the pumps are removed. I don't have the update where it randomly cycles. So I just have block off plates and the DIY aip bypass.

 

It's the right thing to do. Or at least that's what I told myself when I ordered it for install with the swap

 

Ahh, Ok, I thought you had the base kit without the add-on sensors. I'm not sure what the result would be from unplugging the pumps on the DIY version. Might just be a code that needs to be muted...but I'm not 100%.

 

It sets a low voltage code for the O2 sensors. I've battled that 5 volt constant before. Just need to keep digging. Looking over the wiring diagrams and certain troubleshooting charts...or just buy the full kit!

 

Not until @bflooks get his intake mani figured out!

 

I want to put it at the top of the priority list, but responsible me says I need to see what the plastics can handle first. Everything else will be ready for it, so...

Honestly, I just want to see the truck again. I hope I still like it. It's no joke a small concern.

 

Got most of it done, will get a screen/louver for opening. Easy enoughvto remove and trim the end. Gotta get some gravel and bark mulch so need to take the truck out.

 

The 2019 is my friends. I was just in charge of picking all the parts and lining up the install and tuning and all. Sniv will be tuning soon hopefully.

 

I had these screws slightly thicker that worked perfectly.

 

So much air!! Make sure those louvers are rigid! The ecoboost raptors suck in so much air after a tune, the intake inlet bends and deforms to almost choke it off! Their fix is CF inlets for those Cobb tunes now that don't deform

 

I could have just made a rectangle box out of aluminum and squared up the fender and lower air box. I had some fiberglass tape and resin left over from a drift boat project. Will reinforce the opening.

 

Oh, dont get me wrong, it looks badass and functional! I like tis route more than the squared up version, just thinking outloud, you'll likely be fine until you're at 20psi

 

Are you saying that ecoboosts… suck..?

 

I'll be at around 17psi when the new pulley arrives. Should be around 821 engine HP. I'll be building an engine when I put the pulley on. Just want to see with tuning and protective measures what it can take. Weird this is I'll take it up to 6400rpm but am afraid to put it on a dyno to see where it's at. Must have watched too many dybo fail videos.
Another option is to up the crank pulley from 6.71 to 7 inches. 4.2 percent increase. Maybe another 1 psi? Decisions...

 

Give it everything you can think of while it's living. You're doing this for science, right?

But seriously, at 17 or 18psi, you're damn near where @Fastlane47 was running with his built long block. I think he said he was running at ~20psi on average. And he had properly gapped rings.

Good on you guys!

 

You’re a madman. Are you going to be installing a post IC temp sensor? I’d love to know what it’s doing.

 

We’ve got a spare long block ready for a tear down core when you need it.

 

Very loudly, yes...

 

I'm going to order one. I'll position it between cyl 5/7.

 

@armyoffoo This is the CX you have & the cap vents?

https://www.cxracing.com/CT-IB-L?search=Ice Box Tank Reservoir SuperCharger Air water Intercooler Radiator 16"x10"x6"

I messaged them 3 months ago asking for a vented cap for mine with no response. I need more coolant capacity, but don't want the vacuum I get with the one I have without the hole & don't want a hole.

 

I have the 2.4 gallon version of that, link below. I think Viktor getting the vacuum during extreme cooling was because he had the Killer Chiller cooling everything back down after 1/4 mile passes, probably not much of an issue unless you have that.
https://www.cxracing.com/coolant-aluminum-tank/CT-IB-S

 

Thanks, I was having it also. The hoses were "collapsing"

 

That's odd that they are collapsing. Usually you'll have about 3psi built up from the heat in the intercooler. I believe a new cap from cx provides a small pressure build up. Think it was 3-4psi?

 

The old one has a different cap (that was broken, not easily opening. Between the oil residue & other issues, I am back to the OEM Magnuson thimble, I inadvertently ordered the 4 gallon one, guess I'll be getting creative shoehorning it in there, I called to ask to change it but got a machine that said we're not here, call later

 

Really odd thing, they are way overpriced "TRD" hoses I got from Toyota, so nope, I didn't cheap out & get any old hose, should I replace them while I'm draining again (going to flush with 99% Isopropyl at Jon Bond's suggestion.

@armyoffoo do you know if the tank can be mounted sideways?

 

I would think so, as long as the tank is highest in the loop.

 

I wouldn't and just do a good flush.
The pump suction hose needs to be on the bottom. Would mounting sideways reduce the capacity. I'd try and see about what they can do for the 2.5 gal tank.