Shudder

Nor did mine.

 

Quite true. However, early Tundras had brake problems with symptoms as described here when new.

 

Yeah I've read that. Once I got familiar with the brake system as a whole, I've been able to get it to perform quite well. I have been under the truck a few times in the past week tightening the parking brake cable and dialing in the amount of rear brakes. The shop installed new calipers in the rear when they did the 3rd member so the old girl is feeling pretty good at the moment. But the real test is after I get the 1st 100 miles on the new rear

 

The brakes on my truck always felt good after new or resurfaced rotors for about the first 5k miles. After that the shudder would begin and worsen with miles.

After many years of reading about brake problems with this truck, the only thing that made much sense is the claim that there's some type of proportioning valve in the brake system that directs more rear braking with heavier loads. Since I typically have an empty bed I thought that might be related. But since the brake problems were remedied with the above... well. It's an enigma!

 

Pulsing pedal would be if the rear rotors are warped, and since yours are drum you likely wouldn’t feel that

or am I mistaken thinking 1st gen’s have drum in the rear?

 

A couple of ways, but probably the most common is roping the rotor.

If you don't believe me, @KNABORES and I think @assassin10000 would probably back me up on it ... IYKYK

But if you want to hear it from a Toyota technician, here you go - bottom line, don't overtoque your lug nuts, the specs are there for a reason (jump to 10m44s if it doesn't automatically):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlFq1loCxsg#t=10m44s​

 

No that absolutely makes sense; I’ve never thought about it that way on a customers car since we always properly torque wheels, but that could definitely do it over a period of time

 

With the way I've watched some impact jockeys at the tire and chain auto repair stores wield their impact guns, and give zero shits about prepping hub surfaces when there's leftover gasket material or excess rust, I reckon it could happen in as little as one visit.

 

Especially if you’re hard on brakes or drive through rain/car wash

 

You mean I shouldn't ride my brakes down the side of a mountain, then hit that 18" deep river crossing when I get to the bottom?

 

If I heard the tech correctly the operative word was uneven torque, not overtorque.

Uneven makes sense in the context of potential warping of the rotor.

 

If you’re just torquing with an impact, you’re likely to unevenly torque them cause one lug would be at 100, the next at 80, the next at 120 etc etc (whole point of a torque wrench is to under torque with the impact and tighten the last few ft lbs with the torque wrench so it’s at the proper amount)

 

Right. The tech was talking about uneven torque, clamping the rotor unevenly regardless of how it was done, not simply overtorquing. Heck, they could all be under or overtorqued. The question was asked earlier in this thread: how would the lug nuts being over torqued cause wheel shake? Good question I thought. However, it was answered by posting a vid in regard to uneven torque.

Example: Spec torque is X. All lugs tightened to X + 10lbs. How's does that cause wheel shake?

 

Drums in the rear, an issue back there creates a shudder in the drive line. The front disc should pulsate the pedal if there warped or if the pads wear uneven but for some reason it doesn't. When I 1st got the truck, 1 disc was warped and recently the passenger side pads wore uneven. Both times it made the truck jiggle like stripper tatas, but the pedal was fine

 

Pedal gets affected from rear brakes not front

 

Well if theyre all over torqued by 10 ft lbs then its still even torque, but if its not properly torqued and some are tighter than others than bingo

or if there’s too much rust on the mating surface and it isn’t flat

 

Right. So, the question remains... how would the lug nuts being over torqued cause wheel shake?

 

Over torqued implies that they aren’t torqued properly which implies it’s uneven

 

.

LOL! Well... it was your question. I'll leave ya with your own answer.

Cheers.

 

But I wasn’t attributing that to wheel shake by the rotor being unevenly torqued until Shifty sent the vid

 

I get it, you love to follow me around the forum and find things I say, question them, twist the responses in ways that suit your narrative. This isn't the first time, or the second, or the fifth. It's fun, we both enjoy it, it makes my day brighter. Right?

What Faye describes and what others have described aren't exhaustive, as most things aren't. Look dude, just Google it. I'm not saying the internet is perfect or anything, but overtorquing your wheels is dangerous, will absolutely cause wheel shimmy, this is something I've known for the 40+ years I've been wrenching on vehicles. It's one of the first things Dad taught me at the ripe age of 8 or 9 years old.

EDIT: The tl;dr is, overtorquing can warp the wheel face, distort the wheel properties and even the hub, stretch lug nuts so they don't grab properly, and I'm sure there's a myriad of other things that overtorquing your lug nuts will do, which will result in warpage and wheel shimmy. And sometimes, just backing down to the correct torque will make those symptoms diminish or disappear.

​

 

But hey, there are plenty of other professional sources out there, so don't just stick with Google.

https://www.mightyautoparts.com/wp-...-0179-troubleshooting-noise-and-vibration.pdf

"GM Promotes Wheel Torque to Correct Vibrations: Lug nut torque is the usual description that we apply to wheel torque. We found a recent GM bulletin concerning lug nut torque to be very interesting, as most associate uneven lug nut torque with rotor warpage and pedal pulsation while braking. The symptoms can involve much more. Improper lug nut torque procedures can result in the wheel and tire assembly being off-set during mounting. The off-set causes the mass of the tire and wheel assembly to orbit the axis of the hub, creating a vibration similar to a tire not properly balanced or one with excessive RFV. The improper torque can cause a distortion of the brake rotor, resulting in a variance in wheel mounting that can cause a condition referred to as smooth road shake vibration."

I won't spend any longer on it, but it's a thing, there are multiple ways it can cause vibration. It's a simple thing to rule out, as is gauging runout to see if the rotor is, in fact, warped.

 

Recommend pushing away from the keyboard and consider your thoughts before pressing the send button.

Good luck.

 

No issues here. Simply pointing out a a trend I've noticed lately, and supplementing with the info you requested.

 

For heavan's sake... even your double-down links are about" "uneven lug nut torque with rotor warpage"

Hope this makes your day brighter. sigh...

 

Holy rage bait outta this dude

 

don’t worry some of us in here are professional mechanics and back you up; I don’t think I’ve seen a single thing you’ve said that’s flat out wrong

 

There have been. I make mistakes. And some of us have those things we've been holding onto that Dad or Grandpa taught as as if it was religion. @BubbaW has validly corrected bad info I've posted as recently as a few days ago, because, frankly, my memory is shit. Sometimes I type too fast, or go off on tangents and use incorrect words. I appreciate it when people correct me. And I'm 100% open to constructive criticism or corrections.

Yeah, I try not to feed trolls. It's clear what our friend is doing, I guess I'm just surprised to see it out of someone that's more than a year or two out of high school.

 

That’s the people that do it most

 

. .


I leave for a few minutes (ok a few years) and this is what's up now? We all family, some of us are Grandpa's and some are aaaaa uhhhh millennials (don't want to offend)