It took 8.75 quarts of oil!

Right, that's what the dots are for, to indicate the acceptable level anywhere between them. Just like the coolant, brake, power steering reservoirs, all the same. Lower line and top line. Anywhere in between is acceptable.

 

I did look for oil leaks and posted a different thread with a video about that. I did find some oil in areas.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/oil-leaks.161660/#post-3989549

 

Also, I have not yet changed the PCV. I pick that up tomorrow and will install that tomorrow. So it may have an original PCV in there.

 

Based on what the manual stated, the 2006 double cab 4.7 L was to be filled to the top hole on the dipstick.

I can edit later with an exact quote.

***
My problem is lack of a flat parking surface to check oil level after waiting 30 minutes. Local church parking lot is likely the best place for this but my schedule is basically "if it's not raining I'm out working." Something like "only 4% of WV is flat" doesn't help.

 

What about expansion once the oil is at operating temperature?

You better drain some out, methinks.

 

Since one has to wait for it to drain down for a proper reading, and at that point it has cooled down, it is only logical that the engineers designed the dots to read while it is cold not hot.

 

Check it engine warm, idling while the tranny pump is working...just like when you are roadkill on the shoulder.

 

Disregard, check engine oil on cold engine...adjust accordingly. Above info applies to tranny fluid.

 

My 2013 Tundra 5.7L V8 takes exactly 7.9 quarts of oil with an oil/filter change for the oil level to reach the top mark on the dipstick. So all I do now is to warm the engine for a few minutes after an oil change, turn it off, lift the dipstick, and and take about 15-20 minutes having lunch or a cup of coffee, then check the oil level. If I am on the road on a long trip and want to make sure that the oil level is good, I park off the truck, and take the same steps above.

But now that I know that I don't have to check the oil level on the road and that my tundra is not burning or losing oil, I just add a maximum amount of 7.9 to 8 quarts of oil with an oil with filter change, start the engine, and look for any oil leaks while it runs for a few minutes.

 

An extra cup of oil will do that if total capacity is over 8 quarts? Seems miniscule compared to total amount of oil in there.

Normal oil check procedure is engine off after warm up, wait 5 mins and check.

 

Who said anything about an extra cup? Did you mean an extra quart?

 

Just measure the oil when you change it next.
While it wont be exact since you cant get all the oil it should give you a good idea whether or not you're burning oil.

 

8.7 quarts of oil is just too much, at least according to these two videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=723cLP5Txaw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoHCjS7zmxY

 

FYI - those videos are for a 1st gen tundra which, if had a V8, would be the 4.7L motor. The OP's truck is a 2nd gen that came equipped with the 4.6L V8, which is much different than the 4.7L it replaced.

 

I see...I stand corrected.

How much oil does the second generation 4.6 V8 motor takes with both filter and oil change? My Tundra's 5.7L motor takes less than 8 quarts. If I pour in 8 quarts it rises just a little over the top mark once the oil has warmed, and then a few hundred miles later the level drops to the top mark. Since I drive it under 2,000 miles each year, the level stays by the top mark by the time I change the oil and filter again.

I replace the oil and filter every six months or so, once as the spring nears (by April), and once again just before winter sets in (October-November). During the winter the truck goes though hours of idling, sometimes around 2 hours per day when the temperature drops around -20 degree and colder, and also when I am taking photos of local sled-dog races or the Auroras. I assume that oil dilution during the winter is quite possible.

 

4.6 and the 5.7 are the same motor architecture.

 

5.7 is a stroked 4.6.

 

Wait, so that means I can get a 5.7 crankshaft and some other miscellaneous gizmos and make it into a 5.7L ?

 

No - they made them so the parts aren't directly interchangeable despite using the same pistons.

 

That's a bummer.

If there is longer stroke on 5.7l, but the block is the same, doesn't it have higher compression now, because pistons travel closer to the valves?

 

If the block was the same you'd be right. But they lengthen the cylinders as well to keep compression at 10.2. Some of the Lexus 4.6 engines have a higher compression - I'm assuming they use a domed piston. Those are the premium fuel only engines.