General Supercharger Thread

What codes are you getting exactly?

 

P0101 and the left bank rich right bank rich codes I think were P0172 and P0175.

 

Maybe it’s a good time to invest in a smoke machine to find leaks quickly and not waste time pulling unnecessary stuff off the truck. Is your vacuum hose connection under the snout on there tightly? I remember that was a kind of suspect connection and I added additional clamps. I want to get a smoke machine myself since these problems are pretty common and they’re pretty affordable.

 

I built a cheap diy one a few years ago, paint can, nichrome wire, lamp wick, and mineral oil. Worked great to track leaks on my wife's LS430.

I think they're getting cheaper now tho.

 

AGM guys looking for more voltage, here's a PSA (I seem to be the only one that had a problem)

https://www.tundras.com/threads/voltagebooster-pro-not-so-professional.161580/

As I said, I'm prickly, their response that the product can't fail & ignoring my request for a refund are my main issues.

 

Ford diode for me. Cheap and drops right in.

 

My issue there was fuse delete, I am back to the GM version for now. I ordered the HKB.

 

HKB is the way to go. I had the VB pro on my wife’s T4R and low setting was still a touch high. HKB on my Taco and it’s perfect. I keep the OG fuse in my console in case. Note the HKB is directional, you’ll know right away if it’s backwards, you’ll get an alternator/battery light on the dash.

 

New motor first Synthetic oil change question.

I'm doing the drain & fill tomorrow. Have the 30 dyno in there. As I am in a hot climate and the oil never gets "cold" should I use a straight weight? If so, what would you guys use?

I have a bunch of Kirkland 0-20 but feel like I'd be better off going to a 40 weight. What do you guys think?

 

40w for the win!

 

Yes. Good suggestion. Already did smoke myself and the mech working with Sniv did as well. Found an exhaust leak after the O2s using it. No leaks detected before the engine or at the headers before O2. I think it is only occurring under high boost so smoke and other methods didn't pick it up until the system is pressurized. Definitely can run it again before taking more drastic measures.

Are you talking the two lines from the valve cover connecting to the intake? or the other end of the PCV/Catch can lines going back into the engine?

PCV seems to be working since my can is catching blowby residue, doesn't mean it isn't getting stuck. Cheap enough to replace.

I don't have evidence boost is leaking from the oil cap question was more is it possible and if so what condition(s)? Stuck PCV seems to be the answer.

On a new MAF and O2s, everything else is buttoned up tight.

Last step is to remove the laminar flow screen since the MAF basically has a similar feature. Eliminating that as a potential issue.

 

70 buck smoke machine on Amazon works well. I hope you find the issue.

 

Thanks. So far no luck with it except for the inconsequential exhaust leak.

 

I'm partial to Mobil1 5w-40 or 0w-40 ESP. The 5w has a little better bearing additives than 0w.

 

5w40 in the winter, 10w40 in the summer...just like any boosted Euro car...there's a reason why it's used...keeps things sealed, lubed, and happy...until it's not!

 

Everything I own except the rzr gets 5-30 Mobil one. Lawn mower, all three vehicles, generator, heck even my chain saw blade gets it.

 

I have 4 cases of this Castrol for the BMW.

 

good reminder, I need to change the oil in the M3. $100 diy oil change incoming

 

Ordered the Mobile 1.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/70O0MIUCE2KK

 

I'm rocking the Valvoline version...

 

The M3 uses 10w-60. Usually order from FCP Euro

 

That's the site I use for my S2, but not that thick...EXCELLENT oil!

 

When you absolutely, positively, gotta use all 8.5k RPM's in every gear lol

 

CAN'T STOP, WON'T STOP!!

 

I’m talking about this guy here by the crossover pipe. That reminds me, I still have that intake honeycomb before my MAF as well, and that was actually what resolved my P0101 codes paired with a new tune. Maybe your honeycomb shifted in the pipe and is messing up your MAF? Mine was a tight fit and I added a couple rivets.

 

The double clamped hose underneath the snout (looking through the install manual the others are coolant)? I'll take a look at it when I get the truck back next week. What symptoms did you have and how did you detect the issue?

My honeycomb is straight in and not moving. It was riveted in by MRP when they built my custom MAF intake tube. It is also at the 3.5" from the MAF which meets their recommendation for distance from the MAF. The fins aren't damaged either.

Did you retune when you installed the honeycomb or was it running like shit and the honeycomb fixed it?

I asked MRP about the screen, they basically said they have customers who install them on OEM applications without retuning and they work fine. I doubt its causing any issue just eliminating it as a potential cause. Mine was in before retuning.

Thanks.

 

When I had my 101 code, right after install

it was that connection under the snout

it looked tight but it wasn’t

only got the code in boost situations

I put a mondo pipe band on it. All is well

 

I installed a honeycomb straightener but yanked it out a month ago. No change in performance with its removal or codes.

 

Well shit! This is probably my culprit.

Is it 10d in the install manual?

 

instructions? Don’t nobody read that chit