General Supercharger Thread

sounds good, but was hoping to see the fuel that already in it....
like sniv said keep driving the "old stuff" out until you're sure the "New" stuff is in

 

I get it, I really don't want to mess with the not leaking fuel system right now.

I have this from when Advance closed my local store, I can add it & see what happens.

 

Totally Understand

 

That and the IATs at the lowest yesterday were 111F before the blower, so that sure isn't helping things.

 

It was 105 and 50% humidity, the IATs are significantly higher than the + 3-5 it was.
It's "cool" thanks to Monsoon season & the humidity it brings.

 

hey folks, just heard back from XAT on the water jacket discussion. They've never seen one fail and they can only think of a catastrophic failure or contamination (e.g. never changing your coolant) to cause damage/wear/failure. they did say that some people actually forget to replace them during engine builds, so i guess that's an interesting variable, but Andrew says they are 100% required for adequate cooling and to prevent hot spots.

on a brighter note for myself, the motor is getting picked up today and should be to the installer on Friday.

Edit in bold

 

Toyota says the same thing...

 

I've got nothing. I wasn't even aware they existed. lol I asked, they responded, I'm relaying. Nice to know they haven't seen an issue with them.

 

I think the concern @Jowett was showing was for the fact that the wall of the plastic jacket on the intake side is more restrictive to flow than the exhaust side, and he was proposing trimming the intake side for more flow and cooling, not removing it entirely. He suggested the damage to the pistons was seeming to possibly stem from the intake side getting too hot if I was reading his comments correctly.

 

Clearly I don't have the cycles to keep on top of it all and to relay correctly. I'll exit stage left and go back to the gallery. I tried. lol

 

Correct. NA application vs FI adding extra heat on intake.

 

I can't wait to hear that thing.

 

Although my zzperformance I/C pump failed after 2 years. Looks like motor grounded out. It could be a few things that happened. I bought a new one and paid for standard shipping. They express shipped it out. That was a nice surprise.

 

How did you know it failed?

 

It's run off my ignition fuse. I turned the key to ACC to work on my radar/laser mount and it was too quiet. It probably failed a few days prior but didn't notice. Another reason to get the dual IAT gauge so I can see if the SC air is not normal.

 

same here. ignition fuse

my IAT gauge (scangauge 3) saved me when my relay decided it needed to sit sideways.(Thx @Saltyhero13)

EX:
my IAT runs ~30 degrees above ambient (Harrop sensor)

when the IC pump is not on...it will go up to 80degrees above ambient.
IAT was 165 degrees when the pump was glitched last time.
ever since I tilted my relay sideways, it has run flawlessly. <knocking on wood>


and thx to @Silver17 for the IC cooler cap replacement info. <mine was leaking>
my IAT now runs ~28 degrees delta.....it was ~30 degrees for a long time.

 

Do we have an idea of how much difference there is between the IAT at the MAF & the SC? (on approximate average)

 

You could use me as an example

add 30 degrees to your maf temp and you will get your post s/c temp

made a little more if you run a 1900, as they spin faster

 

It’s hard to say how much of that 30 degrees is also just heat soak from the supercharger manifold radiating heat into the sensor from direct contact with the engine. The air itself is likely cooler than our reading.

 

I should have at least drilled and tapped for the air sender whenvi had it apart. At least it can be done by just pulling the IC brick.

Edit: Think I'll put the IAT sender in between cylinder 5 and 7 since those were historically prone to pop.

 

Opened up the side of the airbox to combine the air accelerator and SABM. I didnt get to finish as I got company coming. Will use some roof flashing as a mold to fiberglass a section into the fender well. The flashing contours to the accelerator cutout well.
Anyways I ran to the store and picked up a full psi of boost. Hit 15 psi and it was pulling really well.
I grabbed some pics from the SABM mod thread.

 

Anyone leak boost via oil cap?

 

Ummmm, no?

 

The engine oil fill cap? Can that even happen?

 

You think you have some major blowby happening?

 

That’s not supposed to happen.

 

You need to change out your PCV and then go to the next step...cheapest/easiest thing first, tho...

 

Possible causes...

 

Hit a MAF error and double rich banks again. PCV is good. Eliminating everything else before pulling the blower to check the seals.

 

Thank you for this.