General Supercharger Thread

I drive it less than 200 miles a month, generally 100. It's got about 180 or so since last Wednesday & 80 of that is the trip home & a round trip back to get my transmission oil, Toyota red & the Jowett filter housing they forgot to give back.

sniv said to put some miles on it & see if it works out the issues, it's possible it's learning from being batteryless for a month.

I am babying it for now, trying to stay under 4k rpms (you can see I failed in the log) lol

 

What plugs went back in?

 

It could be over torqued or loose knock sensor. Drive a bunch as new tunes can be funky until settled. Condition of plugs etc.

 

New Denso IKH24.

 

It's like the mod gods are telling you to just stop...

 

My intercooler zzperformance pumps motor just fried. It's 4 years old. Will order up another tomorrow after I call them to see if any discount. Can't hurt to ask...

 

The before graph is running the same tune the engine has before the rebuild, why there is so much retard happening on the same setup I don't know.

The after looks worse than it is, the high retard events were one offs, but I pulled a ton of timing to get there so still odd those are showing up. The truck now has like 7deg less timing in general than a normal tune I would do, which considering it's a pretty low boost setup is weird to me.

 

DID the truck sit for quite a while during the rebuild? Did the fuel go bad? Overtightening of the knock sensors is a common thing, it distorts them. They only need to be snug = 15ft/lbs torqued. They are in the valley.
They go in these 2 bolt holes on the drivers side and there are 2 more on the passenger side. 4 Total

 

It sat for about 5 weeks, came back with 1/4 tank. I filled it with 18 gallons of 91 (most available here)

I hope they fastened them properly, but obviously there's no way to know.

 

Note to self replace knock sensors while it’s apart lol

 

I would also recommend replacing the knock sensor wire too. It is a small harness the connects all the sensors to a plug at the back of the engine. Those wires get very hot and brittle.

 

Yes, voles, packrats, and ground squirrels also love to make nests there and chew through the knock sensor harness. That was fun to deal with last year.

 

Literally pulling these numbers up for quick shipping. I got replacement crank sensors but didn't think of this.

 

You have a part number handy for the wiring

 

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...odel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()&location=pd:,

 

I spent a fortune on all the while I was in there stuff in December. All sensors, gaskets, O rings, Alternator, Starter, torque converter.

 

Don't forget there's 4.

 

Yep I’ve already got the other items new from when the headers went it. Along with a new high amp alternator that was included in my first parts pallet to sniv.

 

82219-0C020

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~wire~sensor~82219-0c020.html

Not sure if this is qty 1 or qty 4. I'm just going to call Fred Anderson. Their prices are a few bucks less (literally a total of $5 savings), but they ship quickly. Will report back once I get the answer.

 

should be a qty of 1 for the harness

 

That's 1

 

@e30cabrio is it knocking even without you driving in boost?

 

I'm blissfully unaware of any knocking.

It felt better before the reduction in timing but obviously I prefer less possibility of damaging the motor

 

Can you get a clear clean glass bottle or jar and get a fuel sample so we can see what the fuel looks like? No fancy tools needed, just you and another person.
I know it's not scientific, but a lot can be determined from fuel smell, (Iknow we can't smell it on the intenet), and looks, without having to send it out. You might be able to smell if its "BAD" (turpentine or just old) or just smells like regular gasoline.

 

Just wondered, since you were just messing with the intercooler loop maybe it is air bound or the pump stopped working. Shouldn’t matter with regular driving though I would think.

 

The gauge says I have 1/2 tank, I have this pump, put the hose in literally all the way & did not hit gas

$69 Steauty Fuel Transfer Pump 12V, Moves Up to 30 Gallons Of Gas or Diesel Per Hour, with Patented Pulley Lead Pipe, Great for Vehicles, Boats, Equipment, UTV, RV, Etc

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWCDZC68?th=1

 

disconnect the fuel line at the front of the drivers side fuel rail, place hose in a bottle and have someone crank it over....BE CAREFUL!

 

y'all were correct. 1 harness, 4 sensors. part numbers confirmed by Fred Anderson.

 

I think they have the reservoir hoses backwards, did not notice until after the last drain & fill. The pump absolutely runs, I can feel the liquid moving through the output hose.

 

I have an AN 8 adapter there & AN hoses running to my FPR. I will fill up & get a small sample of the new gas from the same station which is where I get my gas 99% of the time.