General Supercharger Thread

3rd drain & fill, hopefully all the oil is out.

 

That is so strange! I'm still scratching my noggin how oil got in there. Almost like someone poured oil in there?

 

Could possibly be part of what took them so long. Someone has an oh shit moment when they realize what they did.

 

It can happen. Especially when a shop that may not deal with aftermarket parts/tanks/wiring. I'm sure some would scratch their heads seeing some of our setups.

 

Maybe they drained the coolant into a contaminated container and then refilled from the same...

 

I'd be tempted to fill with water and a bottle of radiator flush chem, then drain/flush some more to make sure any oil is broken down and out.

 

I did, this was the flush after that.

Edit

Apparently the frozen intercooler holds a lot of coolant. It was still coming out pink after that drain with just wasted distilled water.

 

I was looking over the Whipple install instructions and it recommends getting Denso IKH22 plugs(so may not be included), then gapping them down to .028. Thoughts?

Also, when I reached out to Whipple this morning(mainly for instructions) I asked about the increase in pulley size and how it relates to hp, boost etc... Didn't get much back other than;

"The efficiency of the Gen 6 is MUCH better than the Gen 4, so we change the pulley size to keep similar output.

You're not losing power, but actually gaining a better and cooler running system."

I asked for any technical data they could provide, but didn't get anything other than the response.

 

There's a few vids out on the YouTube showing the differences in gen4 vs new gen in other applications. Makes sense on the larger pulley size. The main reason I would switch to the newest evolution for those points. More for less effort is always a good thing. I'd run that gap but on a IKH24 if you're planning on still upping the psi.

 

I was gonna give it a few months, get used to everything and then throw the parts bin back at it.

I'll upgrade to the 24 during that time as well and gap as suggested.

 

I can't say much about running ikh22's as I ran ikh24's from the beginning. I messed around with various gaps and really staying in the .028-.032 range is good. Especially running the cooler plugs with a stock gap seems good.

 

I've been running 22's, gapped at .028 with an 80mm pulley on my Harrop for the last 10K without issue. I plan to go IKH24 whenever I throw the 77.5mm pulley on.

 

Anyone seen HPT crash at 100% just before the turn off 10 seconds, hit ok" message?

sniv's latest tune won't write I created a case with HPT, I'm sure they'll respond this week.

 

I believe when I was on Tundra Geeks and The Professor (Toyota master tech?) recommended of few things when I pieced together my SC setup. Two main items were ikh24's and running a European blend 40 weight oil for the 3urfe.

 

Only when I have a bad internet connection. I've had luck running an ethernet Lan cable and it would write after the processing.

 

Anyone use the Glow Shift gauges? Looking at the dual intake air temp gauge and the dual oil temp/psi? Just see mixed reviews.

 

I had them in my 350Z more than 10 years ago, I have a negative recollection but can't say why, sorry.

 

I also mocked up the Lexus 570 driver side washer tank. Definitely not plug and play but doable. I'll need to fabricate up some mounting brackets. Should be able to have fill neck come out just forward of the fuse tray and relocate the fender ground point.

 

Although wifi & ethernet were giving over 100 down & 50 up it worked on the cable, thanks!

 

Glad it worked out for you.

 

I was just looking at their fuel.gauges last night. Would be nice to watch that from within the cab.

 

Is it possible to get a wrench on the knock sensors with the 1900 on? sniv says I have a ton of knock retarding my timing. I'd like to see if any are loose.

 

It's pretty tight. I can reach 2 since deleting the aip tunes. If you need any I have a good set from an engine with 65k on them for diagnosing.

 

I have a fuel gauge on my adjustable fuel regulator. And an electrical one on the passenger side supply. It's a cheap $45 one that bounces around a little bit but reads 43 and 60psi so it works for now.

 

Thanks. All 4 were OEM new in December.

There was no knock issue on the old motor. I'm hoping one is lose.

I just searched images of it, thinking it's not possible.

I'd really like to know why I cannot get a break.

 

I like the ECF-1

https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/1079198159

 

This a primary or secondary vehicle?

 

It's my favorite vehicle, but I don't "need" it if it is loose sensors; the shop I just paid 5k to install the motor will be dealing with it.

I really don't want to bring it back there, though.

Edit, how do we tell what the cause of the knock retard is?

Here are the graphs, less red is after timing was pulled, sniv can better express what he did.

before


After timing was pulled

 

I know pay the price for quality...sometimes I cheap out. Buy once cry once...

 

If it’s not primary then I’d park it and leave it until life settles out. I’ve learned that when things start to fight constantly then it’s time to walk away for a while. They may be machines and people will think I’m crazy but they absolutely get grumpy if you mess with them to much. Sometimes best to let things settle and come back with a clear mind. You’ve got enough going on in your life. Let this thing sit for a while. It’ll be there when you are ready.