1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Found it! Just noticed it's a red truck too and there is even more in the back. Time to get a camper shell @bmf4069

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DLs2IDiu0qH/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

 

Any chance you can load photos for those of us who aren't cool enough to have IG?

 

Hey, someone explain this like i’m 5, and i want to wire a fan that spins both directions.

 

If it's the type of fan that can switch directions by just switching polarity, you'll need a Double Pole Double Throw Switch. Three-way switch where it will be On (forward)-Off-On (reverse).

 

Mad at the wife, and chewed her out over my truck today.
I was wondering why all the push pins that hold piece over radiator, and grill were wore out and broke on her 4 runner when i changed her water pump.

Then i changed the LBJ on tundra today. Could see it Been driven hard on our rough roads.

Our road is really rough. 6-8” deep pot holes can’t dodge but she says she can

kind of funny when I said something to her. She just asked how I knew she was driving it that fast. # 1 the bump stops have been slamming into lower control arms. # 2 I can see the stress on the bushings.

I learned years ago to slow my ass down because I had enough of spending money on new tires, and having busted frames welded up around shocks.

 

I was fully expecting his arm to be flopping around. disappointed haha.

 

sorry this is what ive got.

Forgot to add the pic.
I know its overkill, but its what i could find. I’ll get another to match for my white/amber aux reverse lights. Except it’ll have diodes and either light up for reverse or the switch in the bed. Might also want a switch in the cab. And it could run the fan in the bed cap ceiling, or a fan in the cab.

 

This is how you would wire it but can't guarantee the switch is rated for 12v and will work off a car battery. If you want to use an On-Off-On for lights, that is a different diagram than changing direction of your fan.

 

Thank you sir. I was good with pictures when i was 5. Pick a trophy, i’ll send it back with sid.

do i need diodes? I dont wanna backfeed nothing. Everything runs ground through lug 5, or multiple grounds?

 

Got it torn apart more today. Jeez it was oily inside that cylinder. That part that looked like a fuel line was the choke connector arm. It was fine. See photos below.

• clutch looks good to me, spins freely
• No clogs from chips anywhere.
• Piston moved up and down smoothly inside cylinder
• Pre clean shot of the piston - very oily
• Cylinder walls were oily but totally smooth, exhaust port was crazy sooty
• Post cleaning shot of the piston. Maybe some super minor scoring, but nothing that seems like an issue
• Fuel filter looks good
• Didn’t take a photo of the air filter, but it was dirty-ish. Nothing wild.

Plan is to:

• put fresh 93 octane in it with 50:1 2 cycle oil
• New spark plug
• Carb clean out as best I can (not sure I want to disassemble)
• Clean up cylinder and piston, exhaust port
• New seal collar that holds the transfer pipe (idk what it’s technically called) between the carb and the cylinder.

All in all it just looks super dirty, but the mystery to me is why it was running so well and then just kind of started to have this problem almost instantly mid cut. To me if it was just dirty, this would be a long developing issue, right? I also will try some different carb settings once it’s reassembled. If that doesn’t work, new carb may be the next part to replace.

 

No fine cracks in the clutch?

Nothing is jumping out at me, but I'd have swapped out that plug and hit it with starter fluid before teardown just 'cause. I think a lot of that residual oil is probably from it dying, then you trying to crank, and it pumping in.

I'm gonna wager the issue is the carb.

 

I’m asking here before I post it to Facebook to see if it’s a good idea. I was thinking about offering a trade for camper shells I’m looking for a mid rise shell. Do you guys think it’s worth it to post it on facebook?

 

You may find a trade because you are offering sliding windoors.

 

How long do the Toyota part numbers stay on parts like drive shaft, and cv axles.
I'm getting part numbers as I work on the truck and see stickers. Most are coming up as OEM numbers so just curious. CV boots look almost new, and it still has the part sticker on it.
The front drive shaft has what looks like a fairly new Dana/spicer part number sticker.

 

Less than 5 years where I am due to the road salt/rust.

 

Your diode question is a little bit outside of my wheelhouse so I'll defer to the experts, but I think that will depend on whether the fan is brushed or brushless.

 

My truck has the original CVs at ~83k original miles and ~20 years since manufacture and they're still pretty vibrantly pink. Although it's totally possible that's a non-remanufactured OEM replacement you've got there, if someone replaced recently.

 

Same on my original, definitely-not-replaced 2001 CV axles. Stickers still there and legible. Note that the date codes are likely to be in Japanese dating format.

 

So not June 27, 1983

 

You're in SoCal yeah? If you want to sell the shell instead of trading it, let me know.

 

Guy quoted me $507 plus tax for labor on timing belt kit install.

 

That's very cheap. Make sure he's qualified / experienced to do the job.

 

I’d probably do one for that price.
Be about $100 an hour.
I’d think a shop would need bit more due to overhead.

 

Last time it took me 8-10 hours I would estimate over the two evenings I worked on it. Took it easy since it wasn't a profit activity for me and it was the first time I had done it. I'm due again by November based on time not mileage, so we'll see if it goes any faster this time. I doubt it, because I will be detailing as I go and assessing, repairing any other findings while I'm in there.

 

I figure a shop with power ratchets and such could move faster due to better tools.
I got lot of practice on mine. Took it down 3-4 times.
I started on it then hurt a finger preventing me from using a hand.
Thought hand was healed up started on it again.
Then my hand flared back up and had to take a 2 month break.
When hand healed. Since I can be a bit ocd and been so long I took it apart to double check everything.
Then I put it back together again.
Then ended up looking for a socket and took it all back down to make sure it hadn’t gotten knocked behind cover by feral cat because I had seen cat tracks on top the engine.

Granted i didn’t take water pump, timing belt or anything off those times Just everything else

 

Oh, I got access to a great shop and power tools galore, air and electric. It’s just about me being meticulous and studying each part. Making sure I get everything back together in order and properly placed. No bolt left behind.

 

I like to take my time.
As long as it’s not a have to git’er done situation, turning wrenches is enjoyable, and relaxes me.
I had forgotten how much I used to enjoy it.

 

No, clutch looked great. I did end up taking the carb apart and cleaning it out as best I could. Honestly, it looked great other than the crap on the outside. I'll replace the sparkplug and see how it goes. I also never tried to fiddle with the carb adjustment screws, so I could do that too.

Honestly it was kinda cool getting to take apart an engine like that in a little lower stakes scenario. That's the first time I've ever gotten to the actual cylinder and piston. Lord help me if I ever get that deep into the Tundra.

 

With two strokes it really doesn't take much to foul a plug and it can happen pretty fast. Flooding it trying to start it again after the plug fouled should be the cause of all the extra oil you had on the piston. If this happens again when running it hard for a long time, start with replacing the plug and letting it cool off over a beer and see how it runs.