General Supercharger Thread

No, I didn't see that one, thought it was just a hose dangling there...my bad. I thought you were referring to the one up top. That one will work for boost reference.

 

The forged pistons will take a lot more abuse, so the jackets are probably not much of a concern. The stock cast pistons are simply too brittle to take the heat in the longer term. It will be nice if we can find or gather up some data on what trimming them for improved flow will do.

 

Not sure if that one photo shows an as molded or a trimmed version is talked about, but hopefully it is a helpful example as this gets explored.

 

Be a good question for xat. Show some destroyed piston pics.

 

Some gauges use a map sensor mounted to firewall then send wires to gauge. I have an older AEM with said hose through firewall. I just usually drill larger holes with grommets if needed. Too much hassel trying to send it through existing wire runs.

 

Looks as molded.

 

Looks like mine went in.

 

Up until this morning, I too would have taken them as they came from Toyota and put them back in.

 

Well yea lol but I was talking about the manifold spot. Driver side has less in the way.

 

I know it's early in the process, but to be clear, you are thinking this is a factory internals issue only, with a belief that forged upgrades and larger/proper ring gap for intended use case negates the concern?

I'm going to inquire with XAT about it and just want to make sure the theory I'm presenting is correct as I attempt to get confirmation they have not seen the issues Rey did with any of their builds.

 

This is where I’m thinking the water meth may come into play. Won’t help the coolant issues but it does keep the intake charge cooler which should help keep the cylinder temps down some.

 

I think my use case of damage is from how hard I was running during a dune day in thick wet dune sand with multiple hrs of boost hard runs over large whoops and jumps etc. I think this day played a huge roll in the damage. Then eventually later everything as we see failed after my abuse on the way to Vegas and during my runs in Vegas

Even though we say no high oil/coolant temps doesn’t mean cylinder pressure and temps weren’t hot. I think I saw a high 226 pan temp at the worst time. This was the day we smoked the trans also.

 

Yes. He actually was the only one I ever saw mention these water jackets before also, but I doubt I’ll ever find that specific comment he made on a post again.

 

I've only seen or heard of one out of the many built forged 3urfe have issues. It was do to improper break in where a few of the rings didn't seat well. It had a little excessive oil consumption.
I'd have full confidence in your build!

 

Only is a little strong here IMO… I’m a never say never type of guy. Detonation will pop even the best forged pistons. The hypothesis is that this is contributing to heat on the intake side of the piston and that contributes to the rings needing a larger gap and possibly detonation. The forged pistons and ring gaps in your XAT engine will go a long way towards dealing with it. As @Mdl says, have confidence in it.

 

Good copy. Thx!

I'm less worried than I am curious and wanting to ask them the right questions.

 

So, for those of us considering adding boost in the future, would you hypothesize that there's a relatively safe range of psi (I'm planning on targeting 7-8psi) that can be handled by our otherwise stock 5.7s, or are you leaning (no pun intended) toward the theory that any amount of boost creates a situation where our engines are significantly more susceptible to this type of failure.

 

I agree. I tend to have Murhphy's law hang around when doing things. Things do happen. As I'm pushing the psi I decided to go with a direct water injection as I saw some pooling below the intercooler brick from just spraying W/M in the throttle body. So now I have s small nozzle at intake for rotor cooling and the intake ports getting the direct injection. Help keep the valves clean too.

 

There Ya Go!!!

 

Most 5.7 failures we hear about are due to racing, and Reys circumstance was doing about the same to the engine or worse. For a "normal" person I would not be at all worried. Even if you lean into the boost a lot, I think you'd be very hard pressed to push the engine to its limit on public roads (unless you're just at WOT, then slam brakes, WOT, on repeat). Get a good tune and lots of fueling and don't think twice about it. My truck has 300k+ on it with 90k+ boosted and I have zero worry using my truck again WOT to 100+mph.

Reys piston seems (hopefully) to be a fluke and result of getting absolutely romped on. And we've seen other engines fail, but similar situation like holding 150mph for extended periods and the like. A normal street supercharger wont normally see that so I wouldn't be worried.

 

Thanks. I needed to hear that.^

I'm on the doorstep of a supercharger. I don't need anymore reasons to pass on it.

 

Yes! And a lot of failures earlier on were using poor tuning with BullyDog, unichip. We now have some real tools at our disposal to help deal with tuning issues from the past. Sure, valves drop or a chain can skip but it's been rare. Knock on wood...

 

My old man’s truck has seen 7-8 psi since purchased and has zero issues. I’ve always pushed every platform as far it’ll go in almost every car/ build.

I enjoy seeing the faults and improving things to help the masses. I have no doubts 6,7,8 psi would run for a very long time in normal uses. I went through a cryo rotor and ebc pads in a summer lol hence the big brakes just an example lol.

 

Do you happen to know what size the adapter is connecting the thermo plate to the Baxter unit, I have a forged Motorsports oil cooler(20x1.5 came in the kit)on my commuter car I'm not using. Thinking the hoses may even reach as well.

 

This is a great post for this thread.

 

Just stay reasonable and you'll be fine. I supercharged mine 2 years ago and drove from OR to TX a week later, towing.

Just got back 2 weeks ago from a 2,000 mile national Park trip up and down to 8,000' elevation. Zero issues and still mild mannered thru heavy bay area traffic.

 

I believe the Baxter kit ts601bk with a 3/4-16. Most sandwchich plates come with both 3/4-16 and m20-1.5. Using a wix 51516 filter with 3/4.

 

I’ll chime in from the peanut gallery

I’m just to the right of the”reasonable”

and

I just crossed 100k on the harrop.

Could I blow this bitch up, yes!

But, as said earlier, I don’t put myself in a condition that’s adds a ton of heat

at my worst I will street race an unsuspecting driver. But that’s about 4 seconds. And my afr drops to 10

other than that, I’m just toodling around, still averaging 17mpg

I bet I stay in the bypassed condition 95%of the time

but, Man o man, once bypass closes, life is good



and
I have yet to have my tune tweaked after dropping to the 77.5mm. Someday


knock on wood
EVERYTHING on my 2020 works
No cel’s


And yes, I pay attention to these discussions

I learn something every time I check in

and I am thankful for you guys

 

7 - 8 psi on a fat tune and you are in good shape.

Look at this like a plane crash. There is usually a list of screw ups three or four items deep that lead up to such an event happening. Remove an item and probably it doesn’t happen, remove two items and the likely hood moves to very low… and so on…. but remember, it’s never zero. The items we need to prioritize, especially with stock internals, all concern keeping things cool as well as supporting the systems that do that cooling so they do not become overwhelmed.

The water jacket trim is something in the tool box for those that are going deep enough into the engine to access them. At that point, the hope in adding this to list of mods, is being able to lean up the tune a little and gain power and efficiency. Or, even leave it super rich and have that much larger of a safety net.

I’ve built enough engines, and blown up a relatively expensive one with forged pistons and boost (too much boost, compression, ran it pig rich), to know why I’m always chasing after these things.