06 DC tundra A750E trans code P0756..

.. As my wife finally took the toy for a test drive after installing new muffler system from resonator to after rear wheel which was easy, I finally see the codes for the 06 and 1 that stands out is the P0756 which is shift solenoid 'B' or 'S2" which is it ?? WELL seems they are 1 in the same.

SONNAX has it as this ( have to see the S2 provision for the 7 solenoids valve body ) https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/224-toyota-a750e-a761e-identification-guide

SONNAX OHMs list per solenoid
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/375-toyota-lexus-a750e-f-solenoid-identification

Do I have to remove the valve body to do the solenoid swap ?

EDIT = Can I take all solenoids out without removing valve body to check them?

Thanks, Steve

 

As I have thought about this since posting this yesterday, is there any wiring diagrams for the transmission plug pin out ?
I will do a internet seach for a schematic, but figured since someone had possibly needed a shematic one would be avaliable here

Side note is, I will do a OHM test from plug into transmission before pulling pan etc, this will for sure ( maybe ) pin point the issue is the S2 solenoid before pulling pan and I can check all for correct Ohms' and get the solenoids that may be ready to go out of spec to say.

 

Should be, in the source of all iour community nformation. Download your wiring diagram and factory service manual, right around line #6 in the 1st reply of this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

In that link shift is pointing out is a link to the 05-06 FSM which has numerous test points/procedures when needing to check transmission parts like the solenoid.

 

Also, here is a link to the A750E/F Repair Manual

 

AWESOME INFO posted above, After going through the .pdf files I FINALLY found what could be a test to find what the transmission is doing. This is what I will do to test the malfunction S2 solenoid, in the .pdf file ( 05-06 Tundra FSM.pdf ) on page 1409, I will do this test to find if the electrial curcuit is bad and it will be a test to find if the internal of the transmission is functioning per the description of the road test.

This involves un-pluging the transmission connector and leaving it off for the quick road test, have to shift through the gears manually from L/2 all the way through to 4th/OD, ( in which OD will not work since the connecter is disconnected to signal OD on or off ), as if it was shifting on its on. Then down shift to find if 'engine' brake type seranaro happens as you slow down, pull it down 1 gear at a time to get back to L/2 as speed reduces to come to a complete stop, again start off in L/2 again and shift manually all through the gears, by time you get back to home base use the down shift ( engine brake ) as you reduce speed while using brakes to find if shift's are good or bad, though this is at low speed up to maybe 60MPH or so by the manual.

I will do this test tomorrow as thunder storms moved into our area today July 13th 2025,<- just a date stamp.

Thanks, Steve

 

Well after much searching in the 05-06-FSM.pdf ( about 2 hours ) I found the start of the transmission solenoid/s info on page 1472 .

The info before page 1472 is of brake light switch test and on up is more component tests.

The way they have it all listed makes you jump here then there, man my eyes started to cross at 1 point LOL. Also the jump to on pages do not work it will just jump you back to page 1

 

Yeah, your best bet is to search the file for the hyphenated section it tries to redirect you to. You may find some of the sections are purely referential, and not pertaining to the testing you'd need to do.

 

WELL, after more searching in the .pdf I can not find the wire colors from ECM to transmission connector, SO I fired up my AllData ( I truley forgot I still had a local copy ) And low and behold I found the diagram with wire colors and the volatge etc.. . This will definatley help me with what I found in the FSM.pdf, more info the better, attached here for all to have

EDIT = I do have the complete AllData so if anyone reads this and keeps me in mind when needed I can see if AllData has the info if not found easily , sometimes it happens, and ask me and I will happily upload it.

EDIT 2 = I added the color codes for the same, attached for all to have.

EDIT 3 = I added the SONNAX OHM guide ( I hope it is ok )

 

I updated my post above with the SONNAX OHM guide, 3 files total.

 

I wouldn't give up on the 06 FSM nor the EWD that shifty linked to. The first 2 uploads you made are both contained in the FSM and EWD, basically what All-Data is showing.

Diagnostic section of FSM....

 

Like I stated above, when I clicked on the revalant DI-XXX in the PDF it would just put me back to page 1, then I am back to square 1 starting over, then same on any of the links in the PDF. I spent 2 hours trying to look through the PDF, it is a good source for info but for me it was like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

After I realized I still had my old hard drive ( from my work laptop ) with the full AllData I tried it and I was able to find it in 2 minutes.

All the info is awesome like I posted, maybe the .pdf files could be sectioned out ? I doubt it as it looks like it came from a full on 'program' like Alldata and the internal links are truncated within the file which happens when you save a large PDF file out of a program.

Yea a little over some peoples heads to say, but none the less I like Tundras.com, I will help where I can .

 

Yep, didn't catch that and unfortunately that's the way most of the EWD/FSM's that are available for download are to some degree.

Over time I have fixed all of our EWD's and FSM's with Adobe Pro. I have not gone hog wild and fixed the clickable links found on pages but I have fixed the Table of Contents to be properly worded/clickable. Also added an Index like's in the actual paper manual to also make them clickable. Given their 30 to 80 meg in size, don't know how to offer them for download.

 

Yea the FSM.pdf is 4,947 pages so yes I see the issue, I am no PS person, but what is avaliable is truley invaluable.

 

As a side note, I just created 1 of the TDC 'B' code lists and it is 356 MB .pdf

Guess I will use my server for the .pdf files I create

 

OK, now for the big question, what A750E transmission will bolt into the 2UZ-FE 2wd tundra, I found a 146xxx milage transmission for 900.00 shipped to my house, any insite on what year/make/model that is direct bolt in ?

here is the donor VIN 5TDZT34A95S251560

Thanks, Steve

 

Only the 2005-2006 Tundras had the 5spd automatic. So your year range is limited to those two, and you'll need to stick with 2WD because the tailshaft/output will be different, unless you plan to swap it over. You may also be able to take a donor from a 2005-2007 Sequoia 2WD, but ... I'm not banking on all the electronics to match exactly, and if they do, the wiring pinout may be different, you'd need to look at the EWD for the donor and original to compare.

Your transmission will have a badge/plate on it, potentially riveted on. Normally those (on most cars I've owned with them) will give specific details you'll need to match up.

 

Ah yes, I do know about the swap output shafts/tailshaft housings etc.. as I had to do 1 in a Crapilliac RSX AWD, these type of issues do not bother me hehe, as I turned a 2wd truck into a 4wd.

I am pruddy much like most when it comes to swap/mod stuff, I figured there would be a quick list of what will work, too, what will not work, but as you said, it is a short lived 5 speed trans SO that is my curve ball LOL.

I possibly have access to my old parts reference program ( possibly not today like my AllData as I had to pay for it myself ).

Thanks for the reply, Steve

 

Ok, seems the 5 speed auto transmission has the same plug at trans as the Sequoia and the FJ Cruiser.

And I forget that the 2007 had the 2UZ-FE engine and the A750E/F transmission for a short time @shifty`

At this point I would say that speed sensors, starter location, and tail shaft length would be a question, but what about the gear ratio ? That is a good question.

 

I'll be honest: Not certain at all.

 

So it looks like the FJ Cruiser A750F transmission have a different bell housing than the Tundra bell housing, the starter provision is set at 3'oclock looking at tourque conveter, while the Tundra is at 12'oclock looking at torque converter, seems the 2 bell housing can be swaped to match the engine specific starter location. This is for the 4.7 iforce engine 4x4 only though as it seems the 4.7L FJ's are all 4x4 ?.

I found my answer to my question in the first few posts, I can replace all solenoids without taking down the valve body

 

I found more info on this after searching and found this thread by @tunyota
https://www.tundras.com/threads/05-09-a750e-f-automatic-transmission-resources.99001/

As of this evening I did a pin out on the ECM to transmission and found 14 OHMs to 2 solenoids, which 1 was the TDC code, 14 OHMs is right at the high of 11-15 OHMs, So I will go for fluid level check since it has not been driven yet.

TECH QUESTION = Any one have a magnetic level to attach to your trans pan and get a pic and post it please as I have a slanted work area, which is my yard LOL. if on flat drive just take a few pics of level to trans pan please .

Thanks, Steve

 

I have a couple of things here. I have both a magnetic level and a magnetic angle finder. I can take a shot with either, or both at the same time. Just LMK. It'll be about 2-3 hours before I can get it taken care of though.

 

Yes please as I will use the info to set this toy up and get the same bubble angle on level, maybe , just maybe it might be perfectly level but I doubt it as most are slightly angled to some degree, take your time, I am in no hurry

Maybe others can use the same info if they are in a area that is not 100% flat to check trans fluid properly.

 

Alright, I'll try and knock it out in the next hour or so.

 

A couple of things to say here. First of all, it is clearly within 1° of level. There is one high spot on the transmission and that I avoided. And the small number of degrees from Porpiglia level could be due to my garage floor. I would aim for a perfectly level, and be careful not to put your level on the high spot of the transmission pan

 

Awesome, and yes a house attached garage floor will have a small degree drop towards garage door for water to flow off of instead of puddling up and causing issues as for mold etc.. Thanks a million @shifty` I can not believe it is perfectly level, but there is the proof

I bet if you put the level and angle finder on the garage floor it will tell you the rest

 

Actually, now I put readers on, I just realized I was in such a hurry to leave the house and grab one of the kids, I didn't have the degrees side up on the angle finder, I had it on the pitch side.

I'd also add, my truck does sit a little lower in the rear than the front. There's about ½" of drop front to back. That may account for the slightly-off-center-ness here.

 

Oh my LMAO I just seen that also I had to get closer to my screen, all is well, as I can say it is possibly level from factory to say, and yes after years of road use and lifting and such things get a little off level, but hey it still is a good truck in the end ( no pun intended LOL )