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2006 Tundra wheels to 2024

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Kevin M., Jul 15, 2025 at 6:37 AM.

  1. Jul 15, 2025 at 6:37 AM
    #1
    Kevin M.

    Kevin M. [OP] 2006 Tundra SR5 Double Cab

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    I am trying to put 2024 Tundra Rims on my 2006 Tundra. Has anyone done this? I had to my spacer that matched the hub. I bought 1.5” spacers. They worked on the back but the front rubs. I’m not sure if a 2” spacer will work.

    thank you in advance for your help.
     
  2. Jul 15, 2025 at 6:40 AM
    #2
    KNABORES

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  3. Jul 15, 2025 at 6:54 AM
    #3
    Kevin M.

    Kevin M. [OP] 2006 Tundra SR5 Double Cab

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    On the spring. It was touching when we mounted the tire. So we took it off.
     
  4. Jul 15, 2025 at 6:54 AM
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    Sounds like the 2024 wheels have too much positive offset.
     
  5. Jul 15, 2025 at 6:57 AM
    #5
    Kevin M.

    Kevin M. [OP] 2006 Tundra SR5 Double Cab

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    I don’t know what that means. Should I not install?

    image000000.jpg
     
  6. Jul 15, 2025 at 6:58 AM
    #6
    Kevin M.

    Kevin M. [OP] 2006 Tundra SR5 Double Cab

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    I’m not sure if I should try a 2” or 2.5”
     
  7. Jul 15, 2025 at 6:59 AM
    #7
    KNABORES

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    The offset or backspacing on the wheel is positive, meaning the wheel is pulled in towards the frame more from center vs pushed out from center and protruding from the fender wells. Math will help you figure out how to make the offset match what you had on previously, or what you desire.
     
  8. Jul 15, 2025 at 7:30 AM
    #8
    ATBAV8

    ATBAV8 New Member

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    I could be wrong, but aren't the center bores different also?
     
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  9. Jul 15, 2025 at 7:35 AM
    #9
    KNABORES

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    They are, the wheel adapters make up for that.
     
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  10. Jul 15, 2025 at 7:42 AM
    #10
    BlackNBlu

    BlackNBlu Justa Member

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    Yes.
    '06 Tundra has 106mm center bore diameter.

    3rd gen wheels are 95.1mm.

    I assume OP's spacers are also adapters.


    O.E. 3rd gen wheels have a TON of positive offset, like 50-60mm, depending on wheel.
     
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  11. Jul 15, 2025 at 7:51 AM
    #11
    ATBAV8

    ATBAV8 New Member

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    I know people are looking for good deals, which I assume is the case here. But here we are, f'n around with spacers and adapters. Just keep your old wheels, figure out what you need as far as offset, and buy the correct ones with offset that works and correct bore. There are MANY wheels that you can find on FB marketplace, CL and such for CHEAP that will work.
     
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  12. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:01 AM
    #12
    BlackNBlu

    BlackNBlu Justa Member

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    I don't necessarily disagree. A couple "IF's" though....
    From an economic standpoint, IF he got an absolutely smoking deal on the wheels/tires, it could make sense for the added cost of spacer/adapters.
    IF the truck is a pavement princess, spacers/adapters can be fine from a safety standpoint, assuming they're quality, hub centric and torqued properly.
    Longevity of wheel bearings is another story, especially when you start pushing all that mass 2" further out.
    I would never install them on anything I was taking offroad.

    Just a 3rd gen guy throwing opinions out in the Best Gen forum. :hattip:
     
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  13. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:08 AM
    #13
    ATBAV8

    ATBAV8 New Member

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    100% agree with all of these points.
    This however...:cheers:
     
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  14. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:10 AM
    #14
    shifty`

    shifty` Waving My Dick In The Wind

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    I don't disagree with you here.

    BUT, there are typically better deals to be found on any number of compatible wheels that fit our truck, as the pre-2024 Toyotas with 6 lugs are getting a couple years in age, people are upgrading and offloading their stockers cheap. On things like the 4Runner and Tacoma, which sometimes have A/T tires already mounted, this can be a killer deal.

    All the fitment info anyone could need (and an explanation of offset/backspace, since @Kevin M. is installing wheels blind, not understanding what that is or why it's super-important), is over in the 1st gen megathread.

    That said, if you're needing to use 2"+ of spacers to make your wheels fit, you got the wrong fucking wheels, my friend. Get something that's better suited to your truck. Here's all the info you'll need from the thread I linked:
    • Wheel fitment (backspacing/offset info) ... backspacing/offset plays a HUGE role in whether or not you'll rub with larger-than-OEM tires. If you need help understanding what ballpark to play in, this is a good thread to read. Gist: Best fit to put you near the fender edge w/o rub on 8½" wide wheel is ~4¾" backspace, 9" wheel aim for ~4.5" backspace. Popular Tundra OEM 7½" wheels had 5" backspace, Tacoma OEM is not ideal at 5.5" backspace. With leveling, oversize 275/70r17 tires on 17x8.5" wheels @ 0 offset (i.e. 4.75" backspace) should only have minor rub.
    • Wheel fitment (caliper rub): For trucks w/larger 13WL calipers, beware of caliper rub on 16" wheels, possibly not just the rim, but the caliper can rip off the wheel weights also! 13WL is std on 2003+
    • Wheel fitment (from other Tundras): 2007-2022 Tundras use 5-lug wheels. In 2023, Tundras started using 6-lug axles again, but the hub bore is smaller (95mm on 3rd gen vs. 106mm on 1st gen), so they technically won't work unless you spend a couple hundo on custom-made spacers.
    • Some other tire size considerations see HERE and more over HERE.
    • Wheel fitment (from other Toyota models): Anything from PRE-2024 Tacomas, 4Runners, Land Cruiser, LX470 and GX models that are 6-lug will typically fit. Someone here is probably running it already, and pics of it are in the OEM wheels thread. Make sure the hub bore is 106.1mm on the donor wheels else you need hubcentric adapters.
     
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  15. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:14 AM
    #15
    shifty`

    shifty` Waving My Dick In The Wind

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    Also, just to add ...

    If @Kevin M. did something bad/ignorant, like installing a strut spacer lift up front to "level" the truck, that's going to make the problem even worse, because the geometry changes caused by spacer lifts will put the wheel & tire even closer to the spring. It's one of a couple reasons spacer lifts are bad - they really screw with the suspension geometry in bad ways.

    @Kevin M. tell us more about the front lift, so we're not flying blind here. What've you got up there, that has the nose so high, making the rear look squatted?

    EDIT: ATBAV8 is probably right, that floor jack has the truck lifted up front. If so, ignore that 2nd paragraph.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2025 at 8:29 AM
  16. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:16 AM
    #16
    badass03taco

    badass03taco New Member

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    OEM wheel = 7.5 x 15
    TRD 18" wheel = 7.5 x 60
    Inner Clearance: -45mm (the inside of the wheel to the A-arm)

    This means those wheels sit approx 1.77" further inward
    This means you are going to need about 2" of spacer to get them to not be close to the A-arm
    When you truck is jacked up off the ground, the tire actually moves closer to the A-arm on full droop. If you are running those 1.5" spacers and the tire is touching, bolt the wheel on, mount it up, and pull the jack out and see if when the suspension relaxes the tire clears the A-arm. Its going to be close but i suspect with those OEM tires they should clear the A-arm by a little bit as long as you are not lifted high. (which pushes the lower A-arm down and subsequently sucks the tire further inward toward the upper A-arm)
     
  17. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:17 AM
    #17
    ATBAV8

    ATBAV8 New Member

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    Looks like he might still have a floor jack under that side. TBD...
     
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  18. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:23 AM
    #18
    Sirfive

    Sirfive Socially feral

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    Cool k5.

    arent the 3rd gen wheels fit for 14mm studs & lugs?
     
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  19. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:26 AM
    #19
    KNABORES

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    There's the math I'm talking about.

    I've had 1.25" wheel spacers on my truck for almost 20 years. Zero issues. Towed, Off-Road, you name it. And believe it or not, they are used heavily in many different racing applications.
     
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  20. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:28 AM
    #20
    shifty`

    shifty` Waving My Dick In The Wind

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    Good catch, and my bad, that's probably what it is that's got it looking high.

    That said, now you mention it, the absence of a torque wrench, especially knowing @Kevin M. has installed spacers, is scary as fuck. You can't use impacts when you're using wheel spacers, you'll crack them, and risk grenading a spacer at high speeds ... bye bye truck, and potentially bye bye to being able to talk and/or breathe.

    Spacers must be torqued to the manufacturer's recommended spec. You will 100% overtorque them using a crossbar, and likely will overtorque using an impact. Furthermore, wheel and tire stores often have staff who don't know how easy it is to crack a spacer, and will overtorque things also, I wouldn't let anyone (except me) touch my wheels if using spacers.
     
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  21. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:28 AM
    #21
    BlackNBlu

    BlackNBlu Justa Member

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    Yep, that too. Forgot about that.
     
  22. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:30 AM
    #22
    ATBAV8

    ATBAV8 New Member

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    Key words are "assuming they're quality". Guessing the OP didn't order up some SpiderTrax or similar. I could be wrong though...
     
  23. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:30 AM
    #23
    BlackNBlu

    BlackNBlu Justa Member

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    Same. Used them on street cars and race cars with no issues.
    I'd still be a little leery with offroading impacts, but no personal experience there with spacers.
     
  24. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:33 AM
    #24
    badass03taco

    badass03taco New Member

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    Pretty sure the "leery" part is the leverage on the hub / studs.
    Give me a few mins, i will draw it up.
     
  25. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:33 AM
    #25
    shifty`

    shifty` Waving My Dick In The Wind

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    I'd feel OK at 1¼", maybe even 1½" on spacers if they were steel, not alloy. It would need to be a quality brand, not some cheap shit I bought on scAmazon or fleaBay or Temu or similar. And you know me, I wouldn't order there anyway, because you're liable to get knockoffs.

    But for every inch you push the wheel away from the hub, you're adding substantial force/load onto that wheel. Once you start getting into that 2"+ range, or the 3" OP probably needs, I personally wouldn't do it. Especially if it was alloy. Steel, possibly, but I feel like mixing that with the LBJ-under-tension design the 1st gens use, putting all that load on the LBJ and the forces of it pulling down against the wheel, it just sounds like a really bad idea going over 1½" of spacer, on this gen of truck specifically (and early Tacos that share the same shitty LBJ design)
     
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  26. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:34 AM
    #26
    BlackNBlu

    BlackNBlu Justa Member

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    The bottom line.
     
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  27. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:37 AM
    #27
    KNABORES

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    Yeah 2" is getting out there. There's another thread on here with a member that has done this wheel swap. Wonder how that turned out. Let's check in and see....

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/3rd-gen-wheels-on-1st-gen.108450/
     
  28. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:38 AM
    #28
    BlackNBlu

    BlackNBlu Justa Member

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    Oh, and since nobody else mentioned....
    The 3rd gen wheels really class that rig up! ;):D
     
  29. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:42 AM
    #29
    badass03taco

    badass03taco New Member

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  30. Jul 15, 2025 at 8:51 AM
    #30
    shifty`

    shifty` Waving My Dick In The Wind

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    Yeah, that last pic visualizes the point I was trying to make earlier. Thanks for drawing it.

    The amount of shear force on the spacer studs and the wheel studs once you pass 1½", up to 2" and beyond is wild.

    Why anyone would risk it, even with interstate driving (hope you don't hit a pothole or road debris at speed!), it's sketchy af.
     

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