Howdy! Come watch me polish a turd.

Those are some aftermarket headlamp lenses I think? Mine OEM original ones didn’t and my replacement lenses don’t have those.

 

Mine has bulbs there, but I can't figure out what operates them, haven't been able to find it yet in FSM, or the owners manual.

 

I’m pretty sure they’re daytime running lights. It’s a little festoon bulb, so it can’t do much. I haven’t installed bulbs in the headlights yet since I’m trying to figure out if I want to do LED for everything and how to make that happen. Also I’m in Seattle and it get dark at like 10pm here right now.

 

My daytime running lights tun off actual headlight, that's why I'm so confused.

 

They could also be what some people call “city lights” which is just a little white light in the headlight that is always(?) on. My GX470 had them even though it also had DTRL.

Edit: the googles confirms it is a “city light” or clearance light.

 

City lights are used in Europe when parking at a curb at night. I think on Some cars they were activated by moving the blinker lever to the side you want illuminated.

 

Thanks. Found it by searching "city light."
Guess I need to check and see if something chewed the wire feeding them since bulbs aren't blown.

 

"Parking lamp" in terms of our trucks. It's not a DRL.

Only certain models have the parking lamp "teardrop" in the corner of the housing. I replaced my halogen bulb there with amber LEDs.

 

PS, straight outta the manual:

​

 

Yeah, Toyota calls them "clearance light" when describing them in their 2005 New Features brochure.

 

So I have a weird issue: all the gauges in my dash are reading wrong. The gas gauge is high, the speedo is off by like 25mph and the oil pressure is showing mid way all the time. Thoughts? I know the speedo could be dirty sensors and I banged on the bottom of the tank and the fuel gauge dropped like 1/8 of a tank from completely full. I’d put about 50 miles on the tank at that point.

 

Bad ground would be my first guess. Look over your harness for any corrosion or oxidation.

 

Would having a golf cart battery instead of a car battery do that?

 

I wouldn’t think so if it can provide the needed current to start the truck.

Why would you use a golf cart battery? They don’t supposedly charge the same as a car battery.

 

Yes. A deep cycle battery is not designed at all to be used in that situation. It's for sure screwing with your alternator.

 

The alternator is designed to quick charge the starting battery and then run the electronics. With a deep cycle battery, the alternator is working constantly to charge the battery and is failing to provide the proper voltage to other systems.

 

I’m just trying to baseline this thing from the crackhead I bought it from. I was exaggerating slightly, but this is what I’m dealing with

 

Back to stockers from potentially stolen 16s. Managed to score these 17s for $100

 

To start with, you're missing some grounds (circled red). Also, what does this cable look like (circled orange)? Corroded?

 

@Nimitz_ You don’t want to over-stress your alternator like @The Black Mamba is stating in his prior comment. I can tell you for a fact that as an example, it can lead to the voltage regulator not regulating correctly which is bad as it also over-stresses the protection circuitry on your sensitive electronics like the ECU. That happened to me when I had a dead battery cell which led to the voltage shooting up to 21 volts temporarily on startup with my battery for less than a minute. I got that sorted out pretty quickly when I noticed it.

 

Awesome thank you. I’ll try to figure out what’s supposed to go there. I’m not even sure what to do with this negative terminal, it’s not original I’m pretty sure. The bolts are imperial instead of metric.

 

Get a copy of the FSM. I can walk you through what mine looks like but we are six years and two cab types separated

 

Ha I get it, thanks for the help. I’m working in a vacuum here, I don’t even know what half this crap is supposed to look like.

 

Try this thread 04 Sequoia’s 150 amp Alternator Swap on a 00 Tundra + The 3 Big upgrades | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

Try to keep in mind that this isn’t malicious ignorance, I’m just doing my best to unfuck this thing on some semblance of a budget.

 

I would definitely put a voltmeter on the battery on startup and when the dash lights/gauges act up. I’m willing bet you’re not getting the correct voltage out of the alternator when it’s running and acting strangely.

 

As @The Black Mamba alluded to, your missing a very important body ground. The yellow circled one with phillips head is an add on from someone. For now I'd get a new negative battery connector and put back the missing body ground length of cable.

 

I’m heading to Costco for the monthly wine and diaper run so I’ll snag a 27f while I’m there. The truck isnt going anywhere, the hard line for the drivers front brake is some cobbled together bullshit and just started leaking. I’ll order another hard line and screw around with the electrical another day.

 

Yaaaasss thank you!!

 

Gloss black paint on the Trans ?