06 Tundra with annoying alarm, Karr or ?

EDITED
My wife just bought a 02/06 Tundra 2WD with 328xxx miles, do not knock before reading LOL.

As I was looking at it ( 700.00 US dollars with title and 2 keys ) I thought she went froot loopy on me LMAO!

Turns out it was a hand me down through the family we know, OK, no big deal starts right up runs fine, took it for a quick spin that is when I noticed the truck still had some, no a lot of spunk left.

As I parked it to start work on it the alarm started acting a fool ( I hate AM Alarms ) when I disconneted the battery. SO I chaulked it up to low battery/disconnect reset issues, then I found a little red blinking button on the left side of the dash ( yea I bet you heard this 1 before )

I took the fuse cover off and started through it and 'horn bomb' started.



My wife tells me it is to reset the alarm ... ? Why, I ask, she said that is the reason I bought it as YOU could figure it out, I asked her millage does not count here does it LOL, she says my F250 has 438xxx miles and still going ..... SO I shut up.

Though I can rebuild engines and auto transmissions, this truck has me stumped as to the maker of this annoying headache of a auto security system. Any kind of help with removal or what ever it takes to stop this 'horn bomb' ?

Steve

 

First off, before digging too deep, you may want to read the first two replies of this thread, and you'll understand why we don't talk smack on mileage, 330k miles is 'just broken in': https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Unless you like dying, make sure the lower balljoints have been replaced with ONLY OEM units within the last 100k miles.
Unless you like bricking your engine, if V8, make sure the timing belt has been replaced with OEM parts (Aisin brand) within the last 100k miles, along with tensioner, water pump.
Unless you like putting money into something that's gonna die, though the sand I'm seeing on the floorboard tells me you may be in the west/southwest USA, take a fine tooth comb to the frame to check for rust-through/cracks in the most common spots.

That said, the LED I'm seeing there doesn't look like a dealer-installed KARR or SECURIKEY+ alarm. That looks like any generic run-of-the-mill alarm any audio/security shop in town may install, from Voxx/Clifford/Viper/Avital/etc.

Now. Here's where we need you to do something for us. Get up under the dash. Trace those wires back to the black box it's attached to. Get some pics of labels, brand name, model number, anything. Can give better advice when you do so.

But seriously. Read the first two replies of that thread you linked, AFTER you get us more info on the brain box of the alarm, which is always mounted up under the driver side of the dash.

 

I would start by locating the head unit and unplug the harness and keep it unplugged. This should do the trick for Karr alarms. I'm not familiar with other makes.

 

@shifty` Thanks for the reply with additional info, believe me, I do not talk smack about high millage autos, as my wife asked me about a 2006 toyota tundra truck a few days before she bought it, as she did not say she was buying it or the millage. I told her it is a great auto from toyota if it has been maintained and runs and drives, ALSO found repair receipts in the truck from 2022 with a 999.72 bill, replaced balljoints and front wheel hub assembly .

Now for the good stuff, these are pics of the unit still installed and functional, it is a aftermarket setup so it is almost plug and play except for a few t spade wire splices ( these are further up behind the fuse block no good pic yet) .



This image is of the plug and play main harness, index and thumb, I unpluged and pluged the fatory plug into the factory plug-in at ignition switch (I have a bad back and 2 vertibre broken in neck so I did not get all twisty looking



I am curious to what aftermarket manufactor this setup is from as it does work, is simple to install from what I see personally.

As for the sand in floor board we are in central Arkansas where there is red clay and sand used to extract crystals when they are very big to cut them down before transport, but yes there is small rust coating but nothing I see is a bad deal here.

 

Ok, I was wrong. It appears it is a SECURIKEY+ system, which would've been ported by the regional entity, or the dealer. It looks almost as if that last picture, it's two of the same wire plugs, which is interesting.

Anyway, I'm attaching the schematic. If I were you, I'd remove it fully. Aftermarket alarms tend to flake out after 10-15 years. Some last longer, but ... they're not made to OEM quality standards by any stretch.

 

Thanks @shifty` I will remove it completely and solder/heat shrink any cut wires back to factory for sure! And thanks for the schematic! .

It is very hot where I live ( as of todays weather) I have to take breaks so I will follow up on the end results and more pics as I get deeper so that if anyone comes across this thread they will have it all

Steve

 

PS - For your own safety, please confirm they used OEM lower ball joints. This is not a "nice to have". It's a legitimate safety warning. Aftermarket joints DO NOT last. Dealer would've/should've installed OEM, but it's not always guaranteed. If you see zerks on the joint, it's not OEM. If the boot is any color other than black, it's not OEM.

 

Hot here today too! "Feels like" temps of 104° today. Wild.

And yeah, if you're anywhere in the SW USA or Texas, a lot of trucks got the SECURIKEY+ or KARR systems installed. We sometimes see similar on Toyotas rolled out by SET (Southeast Toyota group). I reckon you must've known that based on your 1st reply in this thread!

 

Yes I sure will check the info in the receipt as I read about the ball joints and such before I registered to here. I will do oil change and such and go through the brake system as a precaution!

EDIT - I actually told my wife after I looked at the toy that she may have bought a gem and did not know it, but she paid cash and trade not 700.00 but 1,100.00 for it.

 

She probably did find a gem....she's worth keeping!

While this is a Tacoma 'Gulf States Alarm system how to, the items you're showing in your second post, are easily removed and should pertain to even your Tundra.

Gulf States Toyota Alarm System Removal - That Little Red Devil Button! | Tacoma World

 

Still a great price, good find!

 

At this point if my wife does not keep it, wellll guess who will hehe

And in that link I seen the total wiring removed in 1 of the images, this toy has a under hood switch like in that link at the cowling ? I thought it was a hood poped sensor ( factory ) now I see it may be part of the security system, so that is more good info that you linked too .

I am feeling bad from the heat and my medical issues that plague me, but I will get back to this thread ( hopfully tomorrow June 26th or 27th ) with more pics and such as I go as I may put this complete setup on ebay ( yea not worth nothing to me but someone may see at as an investment as it does work correctly so far LOL )

Also this forum is very reactive, I like it here already in the first day. I have more questions comming in the very near future about this tundra after I get it to a daily driver.

Steve

 

As I was searching for the AISIN parts I came across this kit from well Amazon

$185 AISIN TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Lexus GS400, GS430, GX470, LS400, LS430, LX470, SC400, SC430 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EEYWKI?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Any good or ?

Yea probable need to do a search here LOL

 

Never order auto parts on scAmazon or fleaBay. You're at huge risk of getting knockoff/counterfeit parts. It doesn't matter if you buy it while you're on the "Aisin store" page or whatever on there. scAmazon makes virtually no effort to authenticate product arriving at their warehouses to restock, relatively speaking, so there's no guarantee a truck with bogus inventory doesn't end up mingled in with legit inventory, or that someone hasn't purchased authentic equipment, then returned their bogus equipment in the original box. It's just too risky. This is true for:

• Auto parts (especially spark plugs and electronics)
• Small engine parts (mowers, weedeaters, motorcydles, etc.)
• Appliance parts (washer/dryer, fridge, ovens, microwaves, etc.)

That is the correct timing kit to buy, but I'd recommend you get it from known-good sources like here (Summit) or here (RockAuto), both of which have verified supply chains, and will guarantee you get authentic parts. RockAuto always has 5% off codes on the RetailMeNot.com website, you paste the code into the "How'd you hear about us" box. Rock Auto almost always beats scAmazon's pricing, I assume because they're dealing in larger volumes. Summit Racing has better customer service and often free shipping, RockAuto is more mom-and-pop level service, but in 25 years of using them, I've never had an issue they didn't solve (and far exceeding my expectations) with a simple email through their website, since it's hard to get a human on the phone over there.

 

Sorry for the delay on the respnce to the final removal but I got it all out today, I will follow up with images of the wiring that was 'tapped' into, purdy straight forward for this alarm system once you see what is going where.

 

I always check for that reason, my neighbor and I swap info all the time, I just helped him 2 days ago with a timming cover and timming cover set to fix a dodge dakota, I had the parts at my house, he a little older than me ( 53 here ) but he worked in a dodge dealer for a good few years. I always do the Q and A more than do it and get it gone method .

 

@SteveMAR - update your profile to include AC or DC and your city or state. Post pics. Sound like your wife got a gem. She is very much a keeper - wife that is.

 

@shifty` and @BubbaW are the best guys for your Gen 1 Tundra.
I sometimes miss my 2005 DC..

If you need your wiring diagrams you can find them here.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-tundra-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

Welcome to the forum....

 

Ok, been longer than I expected but here is the end results of the alarm that I removed...

Here is the complete alarm in its finest LOL. The 5 colored circles are prudy much explainatory, the only good out come was no wires was cut, just a splice with T tap spade connection to connect to the alarm itself.

Again this alarm system works just annoying if the battery is not a good battery, if anyone out there may want this I will do a good deal on it as I know there is a lot of nicer Tundra's out there than this one.



Here is the 5 wires that was 'tapped' into the main wiring harness above the fuse block under dash at fire wall going into the engine bay.



These are the type of T tap spade splice connectors that was used so I just cut the wire at the spade connection were you would insert the wire to crimp, so far all good, I will use RTV on the ends to secure them as it is a PITA for me to get up in there to do anything LOL

 

Be aware those shitty connectors ruin the insulation and can break strands of the wire. I would carefully remove them and apply a small dab of liquid electrical tape to the damaged insulation

 

I can not get my hands into that area at all, so I opted to just make sure the cut ends are secure with RTV, if anything happens I will have to take the dash partially off just to do that. She starts right up, no battery drain so far like before, I am good for now.

I did find that the timing belt is 'new' but not a TOY brand belt, so I will wait until November to replace it with a AISIN TOY kit with water pump and all the fixings there when it is cooler for me to do the job. I do have 2 vertibre broke in my neck and a L3 pushing against my spinal cord, not something to have a pitty party about, I just take things as they come and get it done when needed. I do better than most but I have limits LOL.

OHH I almost forgot to mention, while taking the knee panel down there was a factory push button in the middle of the panel that has the tire low sign on it, it is to reset the tire perssure on dash whacamacallit LMAO, yea I know. HOW does anyone see that writing and know it is there being up side down ?? I will move it to the dash where it is visible for sure.

 

The OEM belt is made by Mitsuboshi (not Mitsubishi, it has an O) and I'd be surprised if it still had the writing/marks on it, but it's not unheard of if it hasn't been touched.

I think the same brand belt comes in the kit.

What brand is currently in there, can you read it?

 

Oh, and the TPMS reset button is supposed to be in the dash, up under by the steering column. There's a pic of the location in your owner's manual.

 

Yes it was like I just put the timing belt in a few months ago, all writing was perfect, not a single blimish, I can not remember the name but I did look it up and found info, this was over a week ago.

Here is the TPMS, I will move it as my wife will forget it is under the dash as fatory installed. This I can do easily with solder and shrink tubing .

 

Gotcha, I think I misunderstood.

FYI: If you ever need to reset the TPMS system, like if you get new TPMS sensors installed to get rid of the flashing TPMS light ... they give you the instructions in the manual, but I'll warn you after I found out the hard way, you MUST go out on a 5-10 mile drive after you reset, or the flashing light will never go away. To get rid of the flashing light, two things must happen: (1) The correct new sensor IDs need to be programmed into the TPMS ECU, and (2) you must perform the reset process, and go drive around immediately after doing the reset. If both aren't satisfied, the light never goes away. I think a lot of tire shops F this one up, because they install the sensors, and either don't know how to reset the ECU, or they park the vehicle without driving it after doing the reset.

 

I found it again, though it is not a factory dealer part, this is what is in it for now. If it will survive until November it will be replaced with TOY factory kit

$271 US Motor Works USTK298 Timing Kit with Water Pump (Lexus and Toyota V8 4.0L 4.3L and 4.7L 1998-2010)

https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Works-USTK298-Timing-1998-2010/dp/B00U1O765W

 

Yeah. Never buy auto parts on Amazon. Or eBay. Too many knockoffs on there; or generally low quality shit. And if you get a bad part that breaks something else, you’re hosed, I guarantee you nobody is paying up on their failure.

 

That is what was in it as bought, that is why I say if it lasts until November it will get replaced with a dealer kit

It is just a in town haul garbage to dump type of truck for now, not even a daily driver.