1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I just did this. I elected to go with the wheel cylinder rebuild kit from Toyota. Worked like a charm. Humidity is such a non-issue in NM that I didn't even have to hone the cylinders. Smooth as could be....Not sure in TX...

As I recall, the Toyota wheel cylinder kit cost more than complete (probably Chinese) wheel cylinders. Did it anyway. F**k 'em

 

I'm in Etown but don't have any reason to head that way any time soon. Post up some more pictures if you end up with it.

 

Grease your tailgate mechaninism, you lazy sods.

i’m about due for new rod clips. But i’m starting to have to jiggles things more.

note to self: not enough spray glue for humid tx summers. Planning version 2.0 with some reinforcement & a 2nd layer of bubblewrap. And 40ish ft of wood slats. Tent poles dont work.

 

Does anyone have a recommendation of a door lock actuator that won't shit the bed in 6 months? I'm getting to the point where I might just buy OEM cause I'm tired of swapping these things out.

 

2002 AC LTD 4x4 4.7L
Can anyone with a 2002 AC post a photo of their right (passenger side) mounting bracket under the "V8 4.7L" throttle cover? (An earlier year may work, but from 2003 onward, the bracket on that side is different.) Had a mechanic mess mine up and now I need to see what it looks like and how it's oriented. Huge thanks!

 

this the pic you need?

 

Yep, thanks!

 

got an email this afternoon from my local dealership, stating my parts are ready for me to pickup.

 

Got my new head unit installed, Alpine ilx-770. So far I'm really liking it. Still have to take it back out to install my camera, so I left the screen protector on until I'm done messing with it.

 

@shifty` or anybody else that was talking about brake flushes the other day:
I'm due for a brake flush according to one of those thingies that test the water percentage in the fluid. When I replace my calipers in the next few days or so, should I bleed the three rear valves before or after I replace the calipers? Also should I replace passenger side, bleed it, then repeat on the driver side, or replace both and bleed passenger to driver?

 

I'd bleed the fronts so you're not getting old fluid in them, then bleed the whole system when you're done.

 

Are you referring to the switch?

 

So replace both calipers, bleed front passenger to driver, then rear BPV, passenger, driver?
I thought you were supposed to do rear to front?
Or you saying to bleed the fronts before and after the rears?

 

Before and after. And you gonna replace with dot3? Dot4? Dot5? Silicone?

 

Figured I'd just go with whatever the fill cap said on the master cylinder. I gotta check it first haha

I found a cool video on how to do a self bleed, incase I can't find an adult or semi competent helper.
https://youtu.be/ag-Q_lP0dOk?si=A4YpTQUk-MrwwMdf

Oh... Should I set the parking brake or just chock the tires? I haven't seen that ever mentioned.

Edit: ok looks like DOT3 for the 03 and 06. Also looks like the parking brake will not affect bleeding the rears.

 

I have a random question: my truck didn’t have the secondary safety catch installed in the hood when I bought it. When I pull the hood release in the cab, it doesn’t “pop” I have to get someone to hold it so I can go open the hood. Does the secondary catch push the hood up when you pull the release?

 

1: bleed front brakes
2: replace calipers
3: bleed like normal.

I'm sure it's more of a placebo, but I don't want old nasty brake fluid in my shiny new calipers.

 

I know brake fluid type is generally a difference of temperature, but do the gx brakes need anything special? Are the seals the same rubber as our regular calipers?

Anyone have any issues with larger caliper pistons on a stock master cylinder? Like does it feel different at the pedal?

 

I've read the master cylinder should work fine if we bleed the system. I've read a few people complain, but based on their complaints about a "spongy" pedal or too much travel, I'm convinced they had air in the lines. I've also read about people upgrading the MC, but it's not necessary, according to the guys that machine the calipers for everyone on the FB group.

 

I feel like larger caliper pistons would be better for pedal modulation, but the master cylinder piston might need to move further.



if each piston is .2” larger, thats 1.6” bigger across all 8 pistons. Not nothing. I’m sure its fine, since i havent heard about anyone NEEDING a new MC. Just curious.

 

I don't feel this is necessary at all. When I did the WE to WL swap, I didn't bleed first. Besides, what percentage of actual contaminants could become trapped inside the new caliper from the old fluid after bleeding? Practically none.

 

Either way, probably wouldn't hurt to try to flush the system. Last time the 06 was bled was in 2020, when @texoma installed my extended SS brake lines, like 50k miles ago.
Not sure when the 03 was last bled, but the ABS kicks on easier than I'd like it to, when I jam the brake. Been doing that for the entire 25k miles I've owned it. The 06 doesn't have that same issue, but its brakes really suck with 35's. I been using the OD off and downshifting gears on both trucks to come to sudden stops.

 

Bigger brake booster.

 

Y'all mfers are too smart around here.

 

This ^^

Bleed system fully. Use a vacuum kit if you don't have a pressure bleeder. I'd turkey baster what fluid you can out of the reservoir, then fill with fresh, bleed the LSPV first to get new fluid to the rear, then bleed passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front, and driver front. Make sure you check the reservoir level before each corner gets bled, you can use what's in your catch bottle to gauge if you need to add more fluid. Never re-use already-open fluid, brake fluid is hygroscopic. I dump my catch bottle between bleeds to monitor fluid color.

Pinch (soft line) and/or plug your brake lines when swapping calipers to reduce air intake/fluid loss/dripping. Re-bleed (at least) the fronts after caliper install.

 

I think the answer to that question is, ultimately, variable.

When we bled my older brother's early '70s Maverick back in the mid-80s, his first car, the guy who owned it had never bled it once. The car had a gaggle of miles on the clock and was 15 years old. I learned how to bleed brakes on that thing, as a kid. First hands-on experience with a vehicle. The sludge that came out of those lines ... dude. Nope. All wheel cylinders and calipers got replaced after, because Dad didn't want his kid driving a vehicle with what was inevitably in the pistons, or having my bro slam on the brakes and blow a seal or something.

 

I guess I don't assist when I assume that everyone maintains their vehicle like I do.

 

Sad reality is, we're unicorns in this day and age. "Cars are too complex", "I don't have the skills required", "I'm afraid I might mess something up".

Our parents were so focused on kids going to college to survive, that college turned into a business where rates skyrocketed, and they failed to hand down any of those skills, now we're another generation separated from failure to hand off basic mechanical skills ... well, the consequence is clear. All it takes is one generation failing to manage their kids right, and by the time their children's children are adults, the failures rear their ugly head.

 

My son fixes his own shit. And does so for others too.

 

Brakes are a system. If you're upgrading one part of the system (calipers) you need to make sure the rest of the system can keep up.

The master cylinder will work "okay" but it is not appropriate sized.