My new project - 2005 SR5 DC

New guy here. Dad can't drive any longer, so I now have his 2005 SR5 DC. I've been telling him for 20 years that I wanted it when he was done driving it, and we've unfortunately reached that point.

I've been surfing this forum for a couple months getting info and ideas. I have to say this is a fantastic resource and community.

About the truck:

• SR5 - tow package - 205K miles - 2WD
• Spent it's life in Houston. Has never seen road salt. Never been flooded or hailed on.
• Parents have kept it in the garage whenever it wasn't on the road. Very little UV damage overall.
• No rust I can find outside of surface rust on a couple spots on the frame.
• Dad had the timing belt done around 100K, but that was well over 10 years ago.
• Radiator was replaced at some point. Looks very new, but dad can't remember when it was done.
• Dad says he never did the LBJs, but I just replaced them and they seem really tight and newish, so maybe he's forgetting.

I've already done the LBJs with OEM parts and new OEM bolts.

Need to do next:

• Timing belt is in my RA cart. Need to order ASAP.
• Carrier bearing is pretty bad. Rubber is mostly gone but doesn't display any symptoms to what I can feel.
• Valve cover gaskets will go on when I do the timing belt. Both covers had all bolts loose so I snugged them up a little to slow the dripping of oil.
• I gotta get a new sound system. Speakers are rotted and I don't own any CDs anymore....
• Shocks are on the plan for after I get the serious stuff handled.

 

Which kit? You need to be looking at the Aisin kit with the Mitsuboshi belt

 

This one.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3290529&cc=1431003&pt=5759&jsn=320

I knew to go Aisin, based on this forum.

Also, do you happen to have a good driveline shop around the metroplex? I don't want to have to mess with U-joints and carrier bearing.

 

No, but maybe @khooiii, @texasrho83, @TXTundraGuy23 or @Squatting Pigeon can shoot you a recommendation. Also check the Texas Subforum

They're not terribly difficult. Download a copy of the FSM from the Mega Thread I linked you to in your intro post. It'll walk you through it.

 

Give Mark @ Toyomasters in Willis a call. If he can't help you, he should know someone who can.

 

Welcome aboard! Sorry to hear about dad, but life is a cruel mistress and time comes for us all. Hopefully you getting to maintain and improve a vehicle I’m sure he was very proud of will bring him some joy.

 

If it's your double cardan joint just order a new driveshaft and be done with it. If not you'll need to find a reputable driveshaft shop. Most people have recommended going to a chevy style joint so it's serviceable, but it was faster and cheaper for me to get a whole new rear driveshaft off of rock auto.

Depending on your location in DFW I've got two recommended shops. Both of these are my boys and they will treat you right. They both have built rigs and know what they're actually talking about but you won't get hit with the tax that these "Toyota" shops around here charge.

M&J Automotive - Ask for Jon
https://g.co/kgs/W494JgF
One of their techs has a first gen and they work on mine when I don't feel like messing with stuff.

PCH Automotive - Ask for Jesse
https://g.co/kgs/1vywjqQ

 

Thanks for all the replies. I have some research to do!

 

Delmont,

WTF mate? You've got (nearly) my same DC, close to my amount of miles, my dad is (nearly) done driving, and my name is "Greg" also!

If only your truck was 4wd.....

Best of luck with your new-2-you DC. I like mine more every day. The '05 got a bit more horsepower and better torque over the '06 IIRC.

I think yours is silver? If so, that's a great color. Hardest to see coming on the road but easier to keep looking clean.

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! Sorry to hear about your dad.

 

Welcome from Middle Tennessee. Sorry to hear about you road as well. That is how I got my 2wd AC Tundra was he had stop driving it back in 2016. Just got it down here last fall. Good luck on the truck. At least yours isn't from IL and spent its whole life in the salt belt. But new frame helps in 2019.

 

So I found this little plastic thingy on the floor mat in pieces. Luckily I figured out within a day that the brake lights were stuck on. After some digging under the dash, I realized that this little bumper hits the brake light switch, and without it, the brake lights will stay on.

I did some adjusting to get the lights working again, but does anyone know where to find this little green dingus? My search revealed nothing.

 

Amazon.com : 90541-06036 toyota

or grab a bottle of wine...




Brake lights staying on..... | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

It's also in the 'nuisances' section of of the community info megathread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Added to the 2nd reply, 3rd brake bullet point:

• Brake issues: Most of what you need to know for brake overhaul is here. Know this: Improper rear brake adjustment causes a lot of issues, including shudders, shimmies, vibrations, see here for details on how to dial in the rear. If rears are functioning properly, setting the parking brake firmly and releasing 4-5 times in a row should fully dial in the rear drums on the earlier models, though someone mentioned on here, it'll only audo-adjust by braking hard in reverse on the later models? Not sure.
• E-Brake dash always on: Wear on the parking brake pedal shaft and pin may cause the parking brake light to stay on, more info here.
• Brake lights always on: Did you find plastic disc pieces in your floor and brake lights are on? Fix is here.

 

Well damn. I missed that one in the megathread.

Hey, I've already done the LBJs and the timing belt, so I'm paying attention to the megathread. I promise!

Question. Since I was able to adjust it to work decently, and there is no metal to metal contact I can see at the switch/pedal, do I need to replace this thing? Does leaving it like this cause some worse outcome down the road that I am not seeing just yet?

 

@BubbaW is totally on-point here, you can rig something up. Tons of vehicles use these little plastic pads, even my FIL's low-mile early 2000's Honda S2000 has one, and it broke a couple years back, had to help him with that one.

If you can make it work by either dialing in the switch to engage properly, or by gluing two or three coins together and gluing that to the stop, do it. As long as it functions 100% of the time, you're golden. I'd personally stick with OEM, knowing the part is MSRP $1.84 but if I order it through the national parts site, I can pick it up locally for $1.25 so I'd keep it OEM, personally. I may actually proactively replace mine here in the next year or two.

 

Listen to Shifty’

 

Listen to @BubbaW

 

Nah....no different than anyone here that wishes to help and then you got your groupie....

 

Your “to do next” list is very close to what I started with.

I installed a ilx- w650 head unit and have liked it. I was gonna do the speakers too, but I’m waiting a little bit on that. Ordering from crutchfield is the way to go for that. Great customer service. I FaceTimed with a tech during my install and it really helped me out.

I basically did a total replacement of my suspension system. LBJs, UCAs, shocks, leaf springs.

Did my valve covers a week ago. Had to do one twice…..oof.

Here’s a link to my build page with my takeaways from doing the suspension and valve covers. It may help, it may not, but I have dodged some big problems just by reading about other people’s experiences.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2004-dc-4-7-4wd-build-log.128950/

 

Thanks! Valve covers are on the list for sure. I've helped the flood of oil by snugging the bolts, but I can tell they are still leaking.

My next priority is the carrier bearing. It's trashed and there's a noticeable rumble from the drivetrain over 50 MPH when under load. I am still looking at old threads trying to figure out which Spicer bearing is correct for the 2WD. I did price the job at a local shop and they wanted $980 for the bearing and U joints. Not a lot of driveline specialists I can locate in DFW, so I am probably doing it myself.

 

I know that I’m going to sound like shifty here, but I plugged in a random 2005 DC 4.7 2WD VIN number into the EPC and came up with this part number 37230-35120

 

Thanks. I seem to be having issues with the EPC site. Not sure if one of my browser plugins is screwing things up, but I've tried with my personal and work machines and it's pissing me off.

Looking at old threads, I think I need to order the

$62 Spicer 5002334 Center Bearing

Spicer 5002334 since that doesn't have the seals on it. The Spicer 5002007 does have the seals, which would match the 4x4 part numbers.

I think I'm settled on the 5002334 and just need to order it and see if it works.

 

So....no? From the older threads, I understood that the Spicer bearing was OEM and in some cases was branded as Toyota on the rubber.

Link for the bearing.
https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/s...ma-driveshaft-center-support-carrier-bearing/

The local shop that wanted $980 for the job was going to source an SKF bearing, and it sounds like that part isn't ideal either.

 

It's you scAmazon link. Never buy "OEM" parts from fleaBay or scAmazon or WallyMart, or any other place with ZERO accountability, and ZERO checks for fakes. You WILL get counterfeit parts. It is happening more and more frequently, and the fakes look insanely convincing.

 

$62 Spicer 5002334 Center Bearing

Spicer 5002334

Ah. No freaking idea how that Amazon link got there. I am only buying parts from Toyota, RA, and other vendors mentioned here. Maybe I cut/pasted something odd.

Must be a forum software thing. I typed the website name and posted. Came back to look and the scAmazon link was inserted in this post.

 

It's the site software....it doesn't pick it up in a quote.

edit….but yes it does after period of time