General Supercharger Thread

Unfortunately, I think the SC coolant that leaked into the cylinders is why you now have the oil leak. The coolant can't be compressed like air, so the rod likely bent and made a window in your engine block...I would have them make damn sure the SC coolant is no longer leaking before attempting to start the rebuilt motor.

 

I agree, although I'm surprised the starter had the power to do it as it never started.

That's why I ran it over and over to see if it happened again.

I will ask them to check for leaks before reinstalling the Supercharger.

 

Found these pics of my engine letting go at WOT. Sorry if it hits a nerve but can happen.
Of course shitty tune from bullydog and lean.
Rods letting go...think it was 3,5,7 and 8, 4. Burned through the head at 8.
Think it hit 11.3 psi and ran out of fuel hit 12afr.
I'm currently on 14psi and 10.5-11.2 afr.

 

I feel bad for pistons 1, 2, and 6 - you didn't let them join the party? Or did they just ignore everything else exploding around them?

 

They were just singing along unbebost to what the others were up to.

 

Huh interesting about the going lean at 11ish psi. I have mine at 11.8-12.3afr at 11-12psi for 2+ years now.

 

That’s lean even by my standards. I’ve run my turbo anywhere between 10-12 AFR and there’s a noticeable loss of power in the 10’s and 12’s but mid to low 11’s seems to be where it is really happy.

 

BullyDog for the win, their shitty tune caused the failure in my Tacoma. I got off easier than you though, only ring land failure and scratched up cylinder wall that the machine shop was able to hone out.

 

11.8-12.0 is pretty standard in boosted applications with proper ring gaps. The issues to me is not lean the issue is excessive heat and breaking the ring lands hence why we run on the richer side to combat the heat swelling to preserve the rings/ring lands. Long pulls compound the issue obviously.

 

The 408 in the Mustang.....we broke in the camshaft on our fire-up stand, Then it was go for broke and haven't looked back since. Rings seated just fine. No break in on the Blower and it was straight from Mike Kuhl. She also has 8000k miles on Groden aluminum rods...

 

It's how I drive a new car as well. Sideways out of the dealership and give her hell for a while.

 

Bullydog sucked in my NA Tundra & their customer service was worse.

 

While I've never seen a BD or Diablo or Hypertech tune, I've always had suspicions that they just add a few degrees of timing, bump throttle response, lean the AFR's a bit, and then send it down the road.

 

Pretty much just another canned tune, like you said timing bumped and fueling leaned out too much. At the time (2014), it was the only thing available for the 2012 Tacomas unless you went to URD and had them tune it on-site with their electronics installed, this was pre-UCON. Lesson learned...
Like @reywcms said, extended boost pulls on stock ring gaps did me in. Now I'm paranoid about fueling and cooling, and setup my Tunda for overkill in both areas...and a kick-ass tune from @snivilous helps tons, ProSpeed's tune had me running way too lean for comfort.

 

I'm not sure why but a week after mine went ViktorG's engine blew. He was on BD back then. Bad tunes with excessive heat and most likely running out if fuel.

 

100% this, I think long pulls (or repeated) is the biggest issue. As I recall @Abell207 isn't towing or doing long pulls so when he wanted to put the truck more into kill mode I was fine with that. On my personal truck I wouldn't want to do that, even without towing, there's lots of long grades where I live---hell yesterday the truck was seeing boost for minutes on end in 100+ degree heat climbing the 4000ft to get home from dinner. I wouldn't want it to be in the high 11s doing that.

With that said, I try to target right at 11.0 these days. My truck has been setup like that for a long time now and it seems fine even towing up the grade so am confident other people's trucks will be fine.

I think your use case dictates what AFR is safe, towing or bashing through sand at WOT is a lot different than racing for one or two stop lights at a time. A drag racer has different priorities than an endurance racer, same thing essentially here.

 

100%- also dependent on use case. 11.0 is for sure a great median for safety and power. As we know anything below like 10.5-10.0 is like driving through a brick wall it felt like lol.

 

So any idea what the stock/standard boost is?

 

5-6 psi, isn't it guys?

 

typically all these come with 6psi-7psi.

 

Mine is a "STOCK" Magnuson... I see 6.8-7.0psi

 

If I remember correctly thats right around where the TRD SCer was in my Tacoma.

 

That's also where my 4.7SC was on my 2002...right about 6psi

 

What else did you do to that 4.7? Hopefully I'll be doing something to my GX470 in the next two years

 

Nothing....I tried a UNICHIP which resulted in a check engine light and lean code P0171.. So I removed it. I ran it the way Toyota designed it for over 100K miles before selling the truck to a friend and she's still on the road as of today.

I did have the last set of TRD headers on her and the exhaust exited the bed side.
Ran 91 octane fuel and mixed with 100 octane (5gallons per tank) when towing.
TRD drop in filter. All the other "COLD AIR INTAKES" at that point in time always netted at least a 30-40 degree INCREASE in intake temps...I was able to watch on my scan tool.

I do recommend better rods and pistons for the 4.7 also.

I did add a fan to the AC condenser like a seqioua, not sure if it helped the engine run cooler, but it really helped the AC, especially here in vegas.

ALMOST FORGOT I DID EVENTUALLY BOOST REFERENCE THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR., When running the wires to the ECU for the 9th injector, make sure the wires
go thru the OEM harness and make sure they are protected.. If those wires ground out against the firewall, they will flood the engine with fuel and hydrolock it....That was usually the issue when they grenaded....fixed over a dozen of them.

 

This sums it up perfectly.

 

Buahahahha

 

I feel you

 

Hoping to be lower.

 

Here's the builder's response to XAT's break in:

So I think this is too much. You don’t need a fancy break in oil or a crazy sequence to prime the engine. Dave will prime your engine for you. You just need to use a cheap conventional oil for your break in. Anything synthetic will prevent the rings and seals to break in. You’ll run that for 500 miles. Change the oil and filter and then you can go with a good synthetic brand. Change your oil every 3000 miles from that point on.