What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

It may seem a little.....unorthodox, BUT if you want to save some dough and you have some extra clear silicone laying around.....go ahead and hit the inside surrounding edge of the unit. It'll seal up where the seal failed.

I did this on my cheap-o garbage CARID set that I bought a few months ago.

 

Also wanted to mention that you have to drop the spare tire to gain access to bleed the LSPV. Others may have done it without dropping the spare tire, but this was not the case for me.

 

I’ve not had any problems bleeding mine in a 2000 AC with the spare in place.

 

Location as viewed from the passenger side in front of the rear axle looking towards driver rear (old picture)

 

Went to drive the truck today after a couple days of on-and-off rain. Looking like I have the cowl leak going on. Water pooling up in the passenger side floor board only, doesn't appear to be coming from anywhere overhead or A pillar, windshield, etc. and more likely coming around the the blower motor area above the footwell.

Referred to the sticky already https://www.tundras.com/threads/definitive-2000-2006-cab-area-rain-water-leak-thread.70464/. I'll have to go ahead and order the parts referenced in there and get this taken care of.

 

They were $56 a piece

 

Did my valve cover gaskets over the weekend (and redid the passenger side last night). Learned a lot and hopefully all is good now. No more oil leak this morning driving to work, but I do need to go to LAP and clear my check engine light and drop off old oil. I did a long write up with pics on my build thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2004-dc-4-7-4wd-build-log.128950/

 

Yeah I probably should have went that route but I was tired of it, I already drilled a hole in it a while back, which also broke off the drill bit inside the light. May just wait for another Toyota parts sale and order up some OEM units and be done with it.

 

Smart. You don't want to wait too long like I did and have to buy a new blower motor.

 

Adding to @KNABORES ’ already great post here to say: The reasons bleeding the LSPV is important are many. But one big one is, it sits higher up than any other point in the brake system after the cab, so guess where air is gonna go if it enters the system anywhere after the cab, or at the rear bleeders?

Not to say there aren’t other reasons. It acts as a limiter/pinch point for the rear drums also, and old fluid, crud that builds up in the lines, all that is more likely to get jammed up in a bottleneck like that. You really want clean juice pushed thru it.

Really, I disagree (despite parroting this method in the past, before bleeding my own truck) with the recommendation to do the farthest wheel (rear passenger first), then LSPV, then rear driver, passenger front, and driver front. It makes more logical sense to me (note, I’m by no way the authority here!) to bleed the LSPV first, to get fresh fluid to the rear of the truck, THEN bleed the passenger rear, then the driver rear. This way, you’re pulling any bullshit out of the lines up to the LSPV, any air from the LSPV, and getting a clean supply to the farthest corner. I can’t think of a reason why this method is inferior in any way.

If our trucks were 4-way discs with no PV at all, direct-plumbed from the ABS squid to the calipers, YES, I would do passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. But given the bleedable LSPV back there, I don’t see the logic in doing the passenger rear before the LSPV.

Honestly, I’m going to step out on a limb and say something maybe controversial here. I would follow the Professional Hand Model method to apply a paint-safe sealant and reinstall the two offending fasteners, because the new Toyota part simply adds a tiny piece of foam that some members, like @NickB_01TRD (I think?) found will ultimately tear again with time.

If you do choose to order fasteners for feet of the plastic breaking, as it is old, and they do break, let me tell you:

• Only order two, remove their foams, and use a paint safe sealant to seal them in without foams
• Order at least half a dozen of both the black snaps and their white sockets, because you are almost assuredly going to break two or three of each when you pop the cowl.
• Be prepared to spend 1-2 hours on the job, if working leisurely, you will probably find a lot of buildup and bullshit under the cowl that needs cleaning.

Honestly, I hit up a 25% off sale and got new OEM housings. Hindsight being 20/20 as it tends to be, I wouldn’t do it again. This is one of those times where you’ll get as much life out of two CAPA certified housings as a single pair of OEM, and still pay less for the CAPA aftermarket’s.

 

One reason is if you live in the rust belt. When in the rust belt, never try to remove/loosen something you don't have to.
In related news, ban road salt.

 

You can probably break that apart with a hammer.

 

To be fair….

The OEM tow package support is notorious for rusting all to fuck, even happens in California trucks.

 

Thank you, I will heed this advice and was already planning on just ordering exrta clips. have a knack for always breaking any type of clip/push pin that ever needs removed