Overheating after changing cap, coolant, and thermostat

I didn’t think of checking my fan

 

To be fair, I don’t think it’s your main issue. I agree with the others that the system still needs to be burped. But while you’re in there, make sure the fan clutch is operating properly.

 

You said something was gargling out of radiator see video.
don’t see a video, so did you mean radiator is gurgling or there was something coming out of it?

 

Here’s the video. It wouldn’t let me upload before. I’ll also attach to OG post

 

Do not pass GO…..In that video, your reservoir appears to have one hell of a leak just below the small rubber hose

 

Looking closely it looks like the reservoir is busted

 

I’d

Definitely fix that reservoir then I’d do what others suggested also to burp the system.

Being it had water in it instead of coolant like you said, if that doesn’t help personally I would take Off the front covers and look at water pump to see if there is any sign of leakage. (About and hour job to get it apart). But I’d rather spend the time than blow a head.

If incompatibile coolants have ever been put together in that system it can also affect water pumps not just thermostats.
That’s what happened to our Malibu years ago. I assume an oil change shop put wrong coolant in and this is what ours looked like.
Took a couple months before it ruined the thermostat and water pump, but I never did get that one going again due to the Malibu system.
If you saw anything like that, or chunks in it, back up and do several flushes of your system to cut that stuff out before proceeding.

Id also check the compression.
I have seen heads crack on other vehicles, and when they warm up crack opens wider and starts putting pressure into the cooling system.
If don’t know if Toyota engines would do that though, we never got to work on very many Toyotas because Most lasted a while.

 

Pretty much what “one hell of a leak” meant

 

Correct, but once that thermostat opens and you have the front end tilted up so the radiator is at the highest point in the coolant system, the water pump should force that air bubble forward unless the coolant level is too low but I’m guessing you would’ve noticed if the amount of coolant you put in wasn’t comparable to what was drained.

 

If the OP had water only in the system and it froze at some point, that could explain the busted overflow tank. Worth a peek at the block freeze plugs.

 

***UPDATE***

I exchanged reservoirs with my old ‘05, parked the truck on an incline, and have let it idle for 20 minutes with moderate reving to 2k rpm and the radiator cap off. Lots of bubbling from the radiator. I’m going to top it off with coolant, put the cap on, and see if she drives ok moderately. the heather still blows cold air, not sure if this is just a separate issue or not.

 

I knew someone named Heather; she was pretty cold too but that’s a story for another day.

Hopefully you’ll get there and the heater will start working again.

 

***FINAL (hopefully) UPDATE***

I drove the truck around cautiously and then went to the grocery store to get some distilled water. Truck did fine and runs normally now! The heater worked while driving but not so much while idling. I think it’s unrelated to this problem and I may have messed up the control cable while installing my new stereo.

thank you all so much for the help it means a lot!

 

There’s a thread on that here IIRC.

 

Cold heater means air in the system. I'm not sure how the FGT's do it, but I cracked the radiator cap to the pressure release and start it that way more often than not you will get most air out that way. There are tools you can use to assist. My way is the way I mentioned until heater gets hot.

 

Did you have the heater full blast while you burped?

 

I turned it all the way to heat but didn’t turn the fan on. I read that that’s not necessary.

 

Fan should be on or the system isn't on. Go full blast.

 

@KNABORES - the heater fan switch has no bearing on hot water circulating through the heater core. That is controlled by the temp knob which should be turned full hot. The fan switch is required to be on for A/C operation.

 

Agree, but how would you know if it was circulating warm water or not without the fan on?

 

You've mentioned twice in this thread you feel the lack of heat in the cab isn't related to the the coolant level and/or air in the system. That is 100% wrong. When coolant level is low, lack of heat in the cab will be the very first symptom.