Replacement catalytic converter for 2000 Tundra V6 manual 4WD SR5

Apparently my 2000 Tundra V6 manual 4WD SR5 is not very common. I realized that my 'direct replacement' DAVICO 48165 catalytic converter was the wrong filament when I went to replace it today. There are 2 pipes from the manifold on the stock cat; the DAVICO 48165 only has one (picture).

After striking out with parts and fighting broken studs, I need some help. Can someone recommend a good aftermarket cat replacement that fits this truck? I am also replacing the mid pipe (DAVICO 17434) and muffler (DYNOMAX 19330 kit). ideally the cat will be compatible with the DAVICO 17434 and DYNOMAX 19330 but I'd also replace it all if someone has had success with another setup.

Is there a good aftermarket cat+ back cat for this truck? VIN 5TBBN4417YS066146

 

These trucks, at least for the V8, hate aftermarket cats. Not sure on the v6. Constantly popping codes, with exception of, like, 3 brands.

Why are you replacing the cat, if I may ask?

Do you already have the OEM replacement part number?

If not, have you gone to Summit Racing and searched?

If you do, did you plug the OEM part number in at RockAuto to get the available matches?

 

Maybe a muffler shop could help. They weld different parts together.

 

The O2 sensors were on their way out, so I figured it was time to replace the exhaust system while I'm at it. It looked ratty, but now that I have it out it looks like mostly surface rust. I do not think the cats are bad. I was going to keep them as backup after replacing with aftermarket. Now I'm thinking I'll keep them (front and intermediate pipe), clean them up, and put them back. I do not think there are aftermarket replacements.

The Toyota front pipe (17401-07050) is available new at $1,700. It looks like there are no aftermarket options (also searched RockAuto and Summit Racing).

The intermediate pipe (17403-07030) is discontinued and it looks like there're no aftermarket options (also searched RockAuto and Summit Racing).

The Dynomax muffler kit appears to fit (19330), so I plan to install it.

What do you mean these trucks hate aftermarket cats? Do the originals tend to last 20+ years?

I'm planning to remove the surface rust on the front and intermediate pipes and protect them with high temp. paint. I am also going to try to separate the front and intermediate pipes and replace the bolts with OEM spring loaded. Attached are pictures of the current state. Install new sensors, of course.

I'm open to suggests on what to do before replacing the front and intermediate pipes while I have them out. Should I leave them connected, or attempt a refresh with new hardware? I may also do a smoke test to check for leaks.

 

Most of what you want to know is in here. I realize it's a lot to read, so I'll highlight this part, taken from years and years of collective knowledge and experience on this forum:

• Cat inefficiency codes P0420 and P0430: Strong chance it's not your cats. Read why HERE.
• Beware aftermarket cats: Especially ones that are not specifically CARB-compliant. Members over the years experienced recurring cases of check engine lights after installing aftermarket cats (i.e. cat inefficiency codes P0420 / P0430, see bullet above!). If you cannot afford OEM cats, or they're NLA for your 1st gen Tundra, some brands members reported working w/o throwing codes are: Walker, Magnaflow, and Summit Racing's house brand. Really, the best way to diminish risk of throwing codes with new cats is: Choose a CARB compliant product, use a brand others found to work, DO NOT use 'generic fit' products, ensure all flanges and O2 sensors are fully tight with gaskets (where required), and don't trust your local exhaust shop to know about these quirks.

The bit about consantly throwing check engine lights with aftermarket cats is not an exaggeration. If you search back through and really dig, you'll probably find at least a couple dozen people who're suffering from them. At least one of the recent ones trusted their muffler shop to weld in a generic cat, and, lo and behold, check engine lights. I've been waiting on an update to see if the shop owned up and resolved the issue.

Look, if you can manage to get the OEM studs out, clean up the surfaces, and replace gaskets where they belong, if you've got it out anyway, I'd do it.

I pulled a random VIN for a 200 Tundra SR5 V6 and stuffed that into the EPC, and came up with the following exploded - note, you can click on ANY number in the linked picture here, and get the part.

Also of interest, per that EPC exploded, it would appear the new cat you received is for the "California spec" (i.e. lower-emissions) version of the truck, which is OEM part number 17401-07040. You are correct in your part number of 17401-07050, and it's also NLA.

Magnaflow has quite a few products for the single-opening CARB compliant Cali trucks here: https://www.magnaflow.com/collections/2000-toyota-tundra-catalytic-converters?california=true

For the non-Cali compliant/federally OK stuff, there's this page, strangely, I looked at the cat here and it's also a single-opening? Maybe it's just a generic stock image?: https://www.magnaflow.com/collections/2000-toyota-tundra-catalytic-converters

Anyway, if the old are fine, I'd keep. Also note, one or more of those O2 sensors call for gaskets.

 

shifty, this is all very helpful - thank you so much. I ended up purchasing the last new OEM front pipe/cat that I could find (from eBay). I was able to separate the mid-pipe and had a new bung welded on. There's a hairline crack on the cat, but otherwise it's in good condition. I cleaned it up and plan to paint it with high temp POR 15. I was able to source all new hardware and gaskets. I also have new oem sensors with gaskets.

I should be ready to install it after I drill out two bolts from the manifold, which I broke after weeks of heating and soaking.

I really had no idea what I was getting into when I started this and should have checked this forum before embarking. But, here I am, learning the hard way.

Thanks again for sharing these insights and great resources.

 

Everything is prepped and ready to install. Now I just learned that I have the wrong O2 sensors and the front one is discontinued. I'm getting conflicting information about part #s and fit from NAPA and Advanced Auto Parts. Here's what I think I know:

Front (pre front cat) O2 sensor Toyota part number is: 89465-09130 (DENSO 234-4162).

Rear (pre rear cat) O2 sensor Toyota part number is 89465-09160 (

$64 DENSO 234-4161 Oxygen Sensor with 15.35” 4-Wire Harness

DENSO 234-4161).

Toyota 89465-09130 is discontinued.

NAPA lists the front and rear sensors as DEN 2344161 and notes that the rear sensor can be used for the front.

Advanced auto parts lists both DEN 234-4162 and DEN 234-4161, but says that DEN 234-4162 does not fit this truck.

O'Reilly says that both DEN 2344161 and DEN 234-4162 fit my truck, but it says that DEN 2344161 is for downstream and upstream for manual transmissions. It lists DEN 234-4162 as upstream for automatic transmissions.

Chat GPT is confident that DEN 234-4162 is my upstream and DEN 2344161 is my downstream.

I'm confused.

Do I install DEN 2344161 in both front and rear or install DEN 234-4162 in front (despite Advanced auto parts saying it does not fit) and install DEN 234-4161 in the rear?

2000 Toyota Tundra
V6 3.4L (5VZ-FE)
manual
4 WD
Federal Emissions
Built 02/2000
Has 2 oxygen sensors (no sensor in manifold)​

 

First off. Never trust AI for anything. It's just regurgitating the first couple of "looks like a match" items.

Second. Never trust your local auto parts store to give you the right part, and don't pay their extortion pricing.

Third. Any time you need to know a part number, go to the source. Denso's part lookup is here: www.densoautoparts.com

NOTE: Sometimes the upstream is listed as "air/fuel ratio sensor". Be careful to get the EXACT FIT part, not the "UNIVERSAL". Also, look at the notes in case sensors are different between the RWD and FWD vehicles.

After you look up your part, to ensure you get authentic parts and the correct part, and at least 20-25% less than your local auto store chain, buy it from www.summitracing.com or www.rockauto.com

 

good advice, shifty. I rushed this a bit and was not thinking about how rare this truck and parts are. Obvious now to go right to the source/Denso as well. I go with rock auto often and now you've turned me on to summit racing -ty.

I ended up installing a Bosch (BOS 15418) in the front cat pipe and a Denso (DEN 234-4162) in the aft cat pipe. DEN 234-4162 is listed as both front and rear for this truck, but I went with BOS 15418 because it is specifically listed as front for this truck. I am still curious about how Toyota 89465-09130 (font cat; discontinued) is different than Toyota 89465-09160 (rear cat) and if DEN 234-4162 truly is a direct replacement for Toyota 89465-09130 (front). Does it make a difference going with BOS 15418 vs. DEN 234-4162 for the front?

I'm happy with the results after clearing two broke bolts in the front, installing a new Toyota front cat (not cheap), refreshing all gaskets and hardware with Toyota parts, and cleaning, painting (POR 15), and welding a new bung on the (discontinued) rear cat/mid pipe (pic attached). Fixing the DYNOMAX 19330 took 15 minutes after I was warmed up. Looks and sounds great.

Thanks again for the guidance.

 

Did you use the high-temp version of Por-15?

 

I would generally trust Bosch stuff, IF you purchased from a legitimate source. Sad fact of the matter is, sites like scAmazon, fleaBay, and WallyMart are chock full of counterfeits these days and too cannot trust buying parts there. And a lot of people choose to buy there because it’s 20-40% cheaper on average (or better) than their local stores.

 

I used POR-15 44218 HIGH TEMP MANIFOLD GRAY - AEROSOL.

Purchased O2 sensors from O’Reilly as I needed them asap.

 

I don’t trust O’Reilly either but not because of counterfeits, it’s because their staff are typically morons, lie about the parts they offer, and the stores are not stocked with things I need. But if you got it there and it came in a Bosch box, I’d have high confidence.

 

Ha ha - my local store was the only place I could get a muffler tailpipe right away (inspection). With all the dust and crap on it, I should have charged them for freeing up the storage space.

 

I wish you found an aftermarket solution to this problem. I've got some very rusty exhaust around my catalytic converters. Been welding Band-Aids where I can but it's leaking from the seams...

 

@Bmktw2 what's the condition of your rear cat? If that and the front cat are good, can you weld new end pipes on the rear cat? Do you have pictures of the problem areas?

Do you need a front cat to solve your problem? My old front cat appears to be solid, but aged 25 years. I was planning to hoard it until 25 years from now in case I need it again, but will consider putting it to more reasonable use. I didn't realize that there were no aftermarket options..