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5.7L Valve Cover Gasket Change Process w/ Photos

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by HbbTundra08, Apr 18, 2020.

  1. Nov 9, 2021 at 4:39 PM
    #31
    SilverSurfer

    SilverSurfer New Member

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    Man, they were so in my way. I used really long zip ties and held them out of the way with the zip ties. It worked rather well.
     
  2. Nov 9, 2021 at 4:51 PM
    #32
    Audiolust

    Audiolust New Member

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    good idea, didn’t think about that. Thanks for the reply.
     
  3. Nov 11, 2021 at 4:01 AM
    #33
    Audiolust

    Audiolust New Member

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    Just wanted to add to this post, OP can feel free to move the pictures to his if he wants in an edit. The passenger side was by far the most difficult side and the video didnt have anything on really how to navigate removing and reinstalling the passenger side valve cover. Which by yourself would have been incredibly difficult with the coolant lines in the way. I didn't think there was any real way to move these safely with straps until @SilverSurfer suggested he had used zip ties. Again I though maybe there were enough stable locations to perfectly retract these lines out of the way in the vehicle, nothing is that easy.....right??? Man I was wrong.

    Starting back to front:

    Back left Bracket that the large black wire loom attaches to with some hard lines behind it. If you haven't already removed this wire loom, do it now, it gives you more room to work anyway in the back with the valve cover bolts. I had to use 3 zip ties daisy chained here to reach the lower bend in the coolant line. I did this zip tie last.


    Here you can see where the Zip tie reached down to. This pipe moves A LOT when pulled away and up from the engine, like you were pulling it to the passenger side mirror for example. It moved far more than trying to do it with one hand and doing the valve cover shuffle with the other. I was able to give myself 4+ inches of clearance over where it was resting normally.


    Smaller 10mm bracket location, directly to the left there is a sturdy bracket holding a connector, I zip tied to this location to give clearance in the front half of the engine. Zip tie can safely avoid with the wires or the connectors here, all zip tie pressure is 100% on the bracket.


    Lastly but I did not get a picture, at the very front corner of the engine where the coolant lines run there is one final 10mm bolt the lines bolt to the engine. I removed that, It can give you about an ~inch of wiggle room and play when you zip tie.

    The wire harness is a pain, unhook all harness mounts from the rear of the engine attatched to the block, and the front should have plenty of wiggle room from removing the dipstick bolt. I also unhooked the MAF connector and the other connector right by it, (2 large connectors) and the 2 plastic retainers that loom uses that attach to the brackets in the front, one is on the hard coolant lines (this may be unnecessary but it was already done).

    Finally I zip tied that hole loom to the coolant lines and tried to get as many of the dangling pieces as possible contained. This should allow you plenty of room to use two hands to get the valve cover in.



    You will have to pull and pry the coolant lines a little bit especially in the rear and watch the wire looms that run along the intake at the top, that is where mine got hung up a little bit, but they're easy moved to the side once the valve cover is 90% in. I found the best way to get the cover back in was to aim the rear of the valve cover downward (like youre pointing it at the passenger door speaker) clearing the back spark plug tube and that rearmost coolant line bracket will be your biggest pain point. Once you get that in, the front coolant line bracket (10mm bolt where you did the Zip tie) and a wire loom post mount at the top rear of the valve cover will tag team you for clearance issues. Just be aware of both of those locations and you can get it in the rest of the way. Its not that anything is special is needed there, they can both just get hung up at the same time causing problems. Move the large wire loom over the mounting post and then tackle the bottom bracket interference.

    Overall the job really wasnt that hard, tedious....absolutely. But overall not bad. Saving the ~$600 in labor was totally worth it.
     
    WVI and Suprafantx like this.
  4. Nov 29, 2021 at 9:08 AM
    #34
    fish2keel

    fish2keel New Member

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    Does anyone bave a PN or link to the fel pro kit with both spark plug gasket and outside gasket? The one by fel pro, VS 50742 R doesn't have the grommets. Fel pro listed ES 72133 for the grommet set but says it only fits the 4.7L.
     
  5. Nov 29, 2021 at 11:30 AM
    #35
    fish2keel

    fish2keel New Member

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    Forgot to tag OP
     
  6. Mar 21, 2022 at 8:05 PM
    #36
    White Puff

    White Puff New Member

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    Sh!t man! I wished I saw this thread and your post. I thought the passenger side was the easiest to do since it looked like it had more room, but hell, those coolant lines were the devil. I threw in the towel fighting the coolant lines to get the valve cover to clear and slapped it back together to tackle it on another day. It took an hour to unbolt everything and then another hour trying to figure out that I missed one of the rear valve cover bolts and the other few hours thinking how in the hell are people removing the cover without unhooking the coolant lines.
     
    WVI likes this.
  7. Jun 18, 2022 at 7:30 PM
    #37
    Pheckphul

    Pheckphul New Member

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    I just bought this Fel-Pro kit, VS50742R, from the female warrior store that shall not be named for $13.55, and it DID include the washers, grommets, etc.

    FelPro VS50742R for 3UR-FE.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2022
    k0diak8o8 likes this.
  8. Jun 20, 2022 at 11:01 AM
    #38
    aNYsurfer

    aNYsurfer New Member

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    Thanks to all for the great info here. It helped a lot in the my process. I would like to add a few things I found helped with the back bolts of the passenger side valve cover.

    I removed all of the air intake housing.
    Remove the three bolts holding the electrical junction box beside the firewall. Spray wd40 from below to help with the rust so not to snap off the head as I did.
    You can then unplug the wire harness from the firewall connection and this electrical junction box. This will allow you to move the box to the side and the harness.
    Be forewarned you will need to clear the faults you will get from disconnecting this wire plug.
    You will be able to move the wire harness out of the way to get at the back bulbs.
    I also removed the heating hoses back to the firewall.

    I ordered magnetic sockets to kelp with not loosing the bolts I removed and was reinstalling.

    This will give you plenty of room to remove the back bolts.
     
    WVI likes this.
  9. Jun 20, 2022 at 11:24 AM
    #39
    Bikeric

    Bikeric New Member

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    Blown Engine.....
    I had to look back at what I did..... I drained my radiator and removed the rubber hose portions of those lines. The last owner had used the green stuff in the radiator anyway, so I will flush the system and go back with Toyota Red anti-freeze.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Jun 20, 2022 at 2:52 PM
    #40
    aNYsurfer

    aNYsurfer New Member

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    This is the wire junction box where I started to remove the harness and plugs from it. Once the plugs are removed the harness can be moved out of the way. I already unscrewed the “J” box and started to remove the wire loom which comes up the side of the box B9D081A7-BC92-42C4-A30D-ACD8BC2EFA53.jpg
     
    WVI likes this.
  11. Jun 21, 2022 at 2:38 PM
    #41
    WVI

    WVI New Member

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    Thanks from me as well. I just finished mine this morning.
     
  12. Oct 30, 2022 at 10:41 AM
    #42
    TheJuggernaut

    TheJuggernaut New Member

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    Just did the passenger side on mine after I found a massive leak on the upper rear corner, turns out the tech who installed it pinched off a giant section of gasket inside the cover. Thanks a ton for this writeup!

    If I had to do it again, I think I would spend the time to drain enough coolant to remove the metal coolant pipes and disconnect the wiring harness where it goes down beside the dipstick. It would make the rest of the job a cakewalk. A friend also recommended using Permatex High Tack Spray-A-Gasket as glue to hold it in place. It's also oil/temp safe but tacks up and stays flexible quickly.
     
  13. May 20, 2023 at 1:00 PM
    #43
    Okchief

    Okchief New Member

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    I'm doing this job currently myself.
    Did anyone else notice that the video referenced and the OP installed the tube seals upside down?

    The description on the video and the comments also confirm this (he says the video shows them upside but he flipped them and didn't video it)

    Did anyone else do this and have problems? I caught it before I installed them but now I'm thinking about waiting for confirmation. Here is another video I referenced that shows them opposite of this thread:
    https://youtu.be/1ZlI20ccqx4

    Screenshot_20230520_145434_YouTube.jpg
     
  14. Aug 24, 2023 at 1:11 PM
    #44
    slade.alms

    slade.alms New Member

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    This was done perfectly, nicely done. Did you happen to change the OIL CONTROL VALVE FILTER while you had the cylinder head off? I have attached a few pics to show you the part I am talking about. I am planning on changing this filter, and will be using your write up to do so.PNG image.png 2021 5.7 L.jpg
     
    k0diak8o8 likes this.
  15. May 14, 2025 at 7:32 AM
    #45
    farnsrocket

    farnsrocket New Member

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    Did you ending up changing this Oil Control Valve filter out? Got a part #? Is there one on the other side as well?
    I am trying to figure out a total count and part #'s for all the smaller o-rings inside the valve cover. I'm thinking about just buying the Fel-Pro kit for $20 off eBay and using them but I think the OP said some of them didn't fit. :confused:
     
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    #45
  16. May 16, 2025 at 7:23 AM
    #46
    farnsrocket

    farnsrocket New Member

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    Figured it out. Those filters are reuseable but you need to replace the gasket for them, part #11229-38010

    You need 4 figure 8 orings 11159-0P010, 4 orings 90430-A0001 and 2 orings 11159-0S010
     
  17. May 21, 2025 at 1:03 PM
    #47
    farnsrocket

    farnsrocket New Member

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    Here are those oil control valve gaskets……bigger than I imagined.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Jun 9, 2025 at 11:49 AM
    #48
    JackBlue

    JackBlue New Member

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    Is that gasket only necessary if you pull the oil control valve beneath those figure 8 O rings? I have mine apart right now and I'm having a had a hard time finding the figure 8 O rings and the circular O rings in stock at my local dealers. Thanks for the part numbers, super helpful
     
    farnsrocket[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Jun 15, 2025 at 1:30 AM
    #49
    farnsrocket

    farnsrocket New Member

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    I just did my valve cover gaskets this past week. What a job this was........not hard just very tedious and time consuming. I watched the two videos Timmy the Toolman has on Youtube, very helpful. I was surprised how clean my engine was when I took the covers off. My truck has had 5k mile oil changes up till when I bought it and I did one BG EPR oil treatment since then.......definitely gonna keep up with the lower mileage oil changes.

    I did pull that oil control valve and replaced the gaskets. They were pretty hard but I assume they still worked. I am glad I did replace them though just to keep them in line with the other o-rings and the cover gaskets. there are three 10mm bolts the hold it on and the one is under the hard lines .........I got the passenger side one off but on the driver side, my open ended wrench didn't get a good hold on the bolt head and sort of rounded it off. I ended up using a 10mm wrench that I had heated up and bet to do valve adjustments on an Integra I used to have.........it worked perfectly.
    I went a step further and pulled all my coolant lines out of the way and disconnected the main ECU wiring harness from the firewall to really clear away everything from the valve cover area...........it really helped me to line up the valve cover over the head and get it back on by myself without hitting anything. I also put rust converter on the coolant lines and painted them.

    https://youtu.be/ASOIvxWogWI?si=G5DPNgyID9u9NPxn

    https://youtu.be/WyARB8hkwPI?si=7coGv-DvbS1jKKi2


    https://imgur.com/2RD5nNc

    https://imgur.com/iORR6R6

    https://imgur.com/jVpCWUZ

    https://imgur.com/X2Mo7H7

    https://imgur.com/9tixRBx

    https://imgur.com/aJhq8wp

    https://imgur.com/QplbMHa

    https://imgur.com/aYU9FPE

    https://imgur.com/8gdsLoH

    https://imgur.com/he8Y0MG
     

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