Timing belt snapped at right after startup.

Title says it all, I have the aisin kit to replace everything and I'm just gonna do it and hope for the best. Only had this thing 4 months and already to deep in. The question I have is how do I get the crank shaft to ATDC and the cam shafts at their appropriate places and lined up without the belt already on and not mess stuff up inside? I've watched the videos and looked for it on here and other places but nothing ever says what to do if you don't start with a belt on. The manual however says to not turn the crankshaft pulley without the belt engaged.

 

There are a couple of ways to go about it.
First i would get a bore scope, and check top of pistons for valve strike.
If there is a strike id start pulling heads off.

If no valve strikes, safest bet would be to remove cams, and go from there turning what you need as you need to just like assembling motor.
That would be safer way I can think of.

 

I appreciate the response, I haven't seen that yet anywhere and it makes sense. But I'm so far out of my depth here and have barely an idea of what that means. I can't afford to put it in the shop and I definitely cant go that far in disassembly. And out of money ATM for more tools. Should I just move it down the road or is there a way that is less safe but could work potentially way? I'm in a trailer park and they are already upset at some of the liquids I didn't manage to catch.

 

and I'm sitting here dragging my feet on a timing belt change, but mine is just old and the water pump blew, so I don't have a choice. I would do what @Redoak stated. Borescope are fairly cheap on Amazon and harbor freight. I got mine on HF for $45 a year ago. Has been clutch tbh, helped me on my underground water leak and still works good.

 

Sorry about your luck, did you know the timing belt was old/unserviced/bad?

This site should help, I think.

https://www.toyoheadquarters.com/threads/toyota-2uz-fe-timing-belt-marks-4-7l.335/

Keep us posted!

 

If they are already complaining where you live, I’d definitely go with bore scope first.
Coworker went with a cheap belt it broke at 40-50k miles on start up, and bore scope showed it busted some his piston.
That way you would have a better idea of whether or not putting belt kit on is going to be waste of time, and money before you get more involved in it.

If there is any sign of anything touching piston I personally wouldn’t put belt on unless pulled heads and had them reworked.
those Valves bend easily (saw a couple of those early double overhead cams over rapped, or belt break back in late 90’s.)

 

Have you pulled the two plastic covers for the can pulleys to see how far off it is?
Are you willing/needing to gamble on destroying what might be a salvage engine? No judgement if that's the case, just don't do anything hasty.

 

Pull sparkplugs.

Rotate cams and crank by hand gently until it lines up.

Start with the crank if it comes to a stop, back up a hair and rotate the cams a bit until the crank moves into easily into position.

Repeat with the cams, move crank back or forth as necessary to clear.

 

After installing belt, turn engine over by hand several times listening for expensive noises

 

Well I got stuck on a compressor bolt I'm gonna round off with out some more stuff. I was just gonna throw the parts on and see what happens.Tbh I don't think it's the job for me, I need something now cause work is out of town a bit and I can't wait. I'm thinking I'll try to sell it and see if anyone bites maybe someone else can fix it. Sad day

 

Bummer, maybe a motorcycle for backup transportation, depending on your particular situation. I've always had a MC I could commute or get to the store on, just in case.

 

Definitely a bummer. I hope that you can figure this out. As everyone has stated, it's certainly possible that installing a new timing belt would fix it. If you don't mind me asking, how many miles on the odometer?

 

Here is a video of a 2004 Lexus GX470 (pre-vvti 4.7L) that survived following broken timing belt. It seems worthwhile to me to follow through on trying to install your timing belt.
https://youtu.be/WLaGE4vSqHg?si=C48YxxifqPy4EvGW

 

Well a friend at work who's a diesel mechanic on the side thinks we should be all good to get it back up so I'm gonna go ahead with it this weekend. Here are some pics for the crank and cam positions. The cam on the right side if looking at the engine has a small divit you can barely see on the image. It's at the bottom of the flange part of the cam. I think those are the indicators for position.

 

Maybe someone with a vvti truck can comment, but this is what the non vvti cam mark looks like

 

Well that made me think and I saw a pic somewhere on here, mine is a vvti.

 

This video Pretty good at showing the timing marks
https://youtu.be/dmOIs4TUlPc?si=z2mldlGV7A73DvHO

 

Hmmmmm, it may not be that far out of time if I am reading the video right. But I am definitely no mechanic so....

 

Yeah, and VVTi has had more cases of engine magically turning into a boat anchor after TB snapping than the non-VVTi. The non-VVTi are far less convoluted.

 

This has added a few lbs to my sadness cup.

 

This kinda goes to show that you can't trust a visual inspection of the timing belt to determine if it needs replacement. I've seen photos/videos from people who cracked open the timing cover, and the belt is absolutely riddled with visible cracks. And they were still driving the truck. "Yeah, looks like I ought to start planning on replacing it..."

Yours, at least in that photo, looks fine. To me. I mean except for the fact that it's broken...

 

I’d like to see other side of that belt.
Wonder if someone put an aftermarket belt on.

How many miles is on the truck?

 

I would be shocked if that's a mitsuboshi or Toyota belt

 

That would help explain it. We'd have to see more photos to know if it's full of cracks, but it looks fine in that photo.

 

Under side of my old one looks good.
Far as I can see by records I’ve been able to find its original with 186k miles on it.

 

Timing can look right and be 180° off.

 

When i broke the drive belt on my buell it didnt have any cracks. It didnt break under full throttle or high rpm engine braking. Broke while steady cruising.

 

This is it.

 

Wow. I'm no expert, I only know what I've seen here and on youtube. With OEM Toyota belts, they're often full of cracks, and still holding together. With that Gates, there's very little cracking, but a few legit rips. Crazy. +1 for OEM.

 

I've always thought TB's to be kind of silly, although chains with high mileage can stretch, they rarely break and don't require a major maintenance service to be performed on a time / mileage schedule. I miss my old Ford sixes with gear driven camshafts. Yeah and 3 pedals too. It is what it is I guess.