General Supercharger Thread

I've had one of those for my E46 M3 sitting in a drawer for years lol

 

Still waiting for one of the turbo guys to install a ram air hood!

 

People often space their hood off the hinges with washers to create a gap to allow how air to be vented out, that would be a cheap idea to try. I think the fender vents would work if the inner fender was cut as well and a duct was added between the inner and outer holes. Air movement past the body should create a vacuum effect if there was a hole there. I think these look good, better if color-matched, and I already have a gaping hole in the passenger inner fender...I might bite when they are available.

What hood vents did you purchase?

 

Yep I was considering this but the vented hood is sufficient.

 

Congrats, you'll love it. As others have said, I'd seriously consider a set of injectors and a tune be done. I ran my Harrop stage 1 as is and while fast, it was lean and had detonation at higher RPMs.

Size the injectors for whichever pulley you plan on in the future: 85mm - TRD injectors, 80mm - DW650's.

 

I was going to do a flush mount underneath. I bought some stainless perforated mesh it's about 16 gauge. Or was looking at race louvers. Funny you mentioned the washer trick to get a cheap cowl hood. My brother mentioned it to me when he was up visiting.
I may go with the race louver.
Either 2 4x10 mesh or one centered louver. Still thinking. Just trying to save $$ for other stuff.

 

At least for them it will be functional!

 

Can the SC leak its coolant into the pistons? I am having misfires on 7&8. This is 7. Looks like coolant in there, I am not losing engine coolant, I may be losing SC coolant.

 

If the intercooler cracked, or one of the orings between the SC cover and intercooler is torn it could be.

 

Intercooler is ok, so open the top cover & look? That's much easier than my fear I needed to pull the SC.

 

I have seen some DIY projects that also make these vents/mesh waterproof using waterproof and dustproof hydrophobic prefilter mesh. It can be found at Amazon very cheap.

I found a company that use the same approach to make Jeeps factory vents functional and waterproof.

https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/jl/jt-hood-vents.html

I am not there yet, but I am planning to do something similar when I finish the Turbo kit install.

 

Yep, pop the cover off and you should see the condition of the o-rings and also be able to see if there is any cracks in the intercooler inside the SC.

 

Are the O rings standard or specialized?

 

Not sure to be honest, probably just nitrile, shouldn't need to be a special material.

 

Are these the right seals & is there a torquing order?

https://superchargersonline.com/pro...iU1b78Ac_ApIoxJOu07hwUpyTQPSFMsAiXEgN1ofTXHBX

 

It should be large enough for the 3/4" holes, something like this https://www.jonbondperformance.com/product/intercooler-o-ring-set/

 

Can you put a cooling system pressure tester on your reservoir? Pump it to 5psi and see if it holds?

 

@e30cabrio , disregard google AI's recommendation, other supercharger lid specs are 89 INCH lbs, I would go with that range since the bolts are small

 

Ordered from JonB, I don't have anything that will pressurize the SC coolant reservoir, it's an oddball opening.

 

I've pulled the I/C brick 4 or 5 times, used the same o-rings/seals. I pressure tested it with a cut up inner tube Schrader valve clamped to inlet/outlet pumped to 7-8 psi and used some soapy water to look for leaks. Kinda primitive and shady tree... ya gotta do what you can with what ya got.
I used a bike hand pump as I didn't want to blow it up.

 

Does it make sense I'm only having misfires on 7&8 that it's leaking into the intake?

Also, would increased IATs be a symptom of leaks? I have also seen higher temps than normal.

Do I need to drain the coolant? Having a hard time finding any documentation on this.

 

Thanks! I just looked it up and will be a nice add on for the rainy weather.

 

You can clamp inlet/outlet hoses take them off and try to pump out remaing coolant in brick before pulling lid so levelbis below the seal. Pull it easy so no coolant can drip out into rotor housing.

 

Thanks!

 

Do you have a dyno sheet and full list of the build parts? Just curious what you needed to hit 650whp.

 

If the o rings are the issue, they are at the rear above 7 and 8 . Also, if the coolant is leaking it would not be doing as well to transfer heat and would lead to higher iats. Is the coolant level lower than 1" below the top of the reservoir? This would indicate a leak in the system.

 

The level has been going down but because my lid is not vented it was creating a vacuum so Viktor drilled a hole & it was losing coolant there.

It seems to be losing it much quicker & that looks like some coolant in the cylinder to me. It's 107 right now, I'll take it apart in the morning.

Thanks!

 

See, that throws a red flag for me. The system is closed, and the cap should be a pressure release for when the coolant expands due to temp, it should never be under vacuum. Unless there is a leak and vacuum from the engine is sucking in coolant. Where did Viktor drill a hole in his cap, I don't recall seeing that, but might have missed it.

 

The reservoir is similar to yours but older, it has a 3 prong unvented cap. Viktor gave it to me for the cost of shipping.

It has a tiny hole to the right of the cap in the top of the tank. It never created a vacuum in my truck, he told me that is why he drilled the hole.

 

Ahh, Ok, I thought you were using the stock 1900 reservoir and cap.