2014 CM Non JBL need new sound !

New sound ? !!!
Where to get components? Trail Grid Pro, Taco Tunes , elsewhere?
What has everyone done to theirs ? Are you happy ? What would you do differently? I’ve got a new project truck 2014 CM , non JBL , but has small factory amp under the seat. Sound system in this truck is underwhelming. Any help would be great.

 

1. What is your budget?
With a $1000 budget i would go with one set up
$2000 a different setup
$3000 a different setup

Anything over $4000 you get to diminishing returns real quick in car audio


2. Are you planning on doing the install yourself?

 

I could do any of those budgets, and yes I agree I wouldn’t go over the latter, it’s a 2014 , and yes I could install, may need to have someone tune correctly( or if I could find a how to video to tune correctly I would do that too) . Thanks for any help you can give!

 

I've heard only good things on here about Trail Grid Pro.

Mine's a '19 but had the amplified non-JBL also.

Just changing out the craptastic OEM head unit was a significant improvement in sound quality as well as functionality. I'm super happy with the big 10" Kenwood I had installed.

Yes, I'd like to just drop thousands more and do amps, subs, and separates, but I have too many other priorities to spend that money on and this is good enough to keep me happy for now.

 

Welcome to the forum.

The good thing is that your non-JBL is easier to upgrade than a JBL system.
Please note that your dash speakers and rear door tweeters are powered by the HU, while the door speakers are powered by the OEM underseat amp.

This adapter makes replacing the OEM amp easier:

$18 2010-2019 Toyota Tundra (w/o JBL Audio) AutoHarnessHouse.com Factory Amp Upgrade Harness AHH-4438

Amazon.com: 2010-2019 Toyota Tundra (w/o JBL Audio) AutoHarnessHouse.com Factory Amp Upgrade Harness AHH-4438 : Electronics

You can find your wiring diagrams here.
Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum

I would avoid Taco Tunes with one exception.
They have many satisfied customers, but in the past, some members here had bad customer service experiences.
That is the reason one cannot post a link to their website on this forum.
The exception is that they make very nice speaker adapters.
Cut to order and usually shipped promptly.

 

I made the mistake of going with Trail Grid Pro Kicker bundle first, and then added the Sony 9500 head unit. OEM sounded better ... sad but true.

The Sony is nice but it doesn't put out enough power to drive the Kickers, so they sound weak/anemic. Do not do this upgrade without also adding an amp (which I suggested they do if they continue to sell this 'upgrade').

In retrospect I shoulda done the head unit first and then done the speakers. I'm an idiot for tossing the OEM speakers in the garbage before trying them with the new Sony.

 

Slightly different for OP since in 2014 Toyota started adding a small amp under the passenger seat, even in the non-jbl trucks.

@SC SR5 your factory amp does ~35w @ 2-ohms, and about half that at 4-ohms.

You’ll have a speaker in each dash corner that is wired to one voice coil of the center speaker (2 channels total here) and then you’ll have a tweeter in each rear door (for another 2 channels). Add those together and you’ve got 4 channels that are all wired to and powered by the head unit at 20w and 4-ohms.

In the rear doors you’ve also got a 6.5” speaker, and in the front doors you’ve got a ~6x9” speaker. Those 4 speakers are all 35w and 2-ohms.

Budget/goals really determine what suggestions I’d make. Things like do you want a new head unit or do you prefer the factory look? What kind of music do you listen to? Do you want a little or a lot of bass, and does bass take priority in the budget over sound quality?

Plenty of great head units, speaker, and sub options at different price points. Certain install pieces like the factory integration harness and speaker adapters @1lowlife linked are nearly essentials in my book. Sounds Good Stereo also makes great adapters and amp racks.

You can fit 8” drivers in your front doors. Common thing to do is buy the sail panels for a JBL equipped truck to easily add a tweeter mounting location. A 2 or 3 way passive front stage will satisfy most people. A single sub will also satisfy most people. If you’re a sound/music/speaker enthusiast moving to an active setup, a 2nd sub, a front sub etc. are all great avenues to go down. Really depends how much time/money you want to invest but like I said before, in my experience a decent 2 or 3 way passive front stage on a good amp will wow most people, add a sub and you’ve got the best car most people have ever heard.

 

Here is one option to look at

Ultra budget but great sound
Replace the head unit pick any basic head unit that has the features you want 4v rca output is enough.
Jcv750bt. Ebay. New. $332. I have this in my son's camaro it has worked well.

Or the kwnwood dmx809s It has wireless apple or android auto. Crutchfield $399

I like wireless

Dash kit metra99-8252
Crux swrty-61n wiring interface
$99 if you buy the head unit at Crutchfield

There are several lower cost dsp options out there
Down 4 sound dsp ezy68+ $279
Marts btx8 ebay $125
Dayton dsp408. $179.

Audiofrog umi-1. $199. If you want to learn to tune yourself

Tweeters. Massive audio ct2 28mm silk dome tweeters. $79 for thr pair. They even have pods included
I would mount in pods on the dash on axis as much as possible

6 inch woofer in the front doors
Sb acoustics sb17nrx2c35-4. $142 for the pair on madisound speakers store

Or ultra budget silver flute wr17rc38-04. $36.80 each. Don't let the price fool you. They sound fantastic

Subwoofer. Single 8 inch daytonHO 8
Build the box around .75-.80 sf. Tuned to around 34 hz
Sub $139. Parts express

Amp. Pick any basic 5 channel amp
Many to choose from around $200
Ct sounds ct-1500.5d $269.99

 

so , I wouldn’t mind keeping the factory head unit and upgrading speakers, a bigger amp and a single bass first .

 

I can go a bit more than that with my budget

 

Can I do just a swap with the factory components ? What speakers, amp do you recommend? Do I need to upgrade the factory hu now? I wouldn’t mind doing this build in stages , what’s the best way to add bass , (a little) what should I do first if doing In stages? And what adapters do I need to do it? I’d like to hear some of your ideas.

 

In that case i’d recommend getting some component speakers for your front doors and coaxial or component ones for your rear doors. “Lower” tier I’d look at would be something like JL Audio C1, Morel Maximo, Alpine Type S, Kicker CS, Focal Auditor etc. For “middle” tier I’d do a list of those same brands just the next step up, like JL C2, Alpine Type R, Focal Access, etc. For a “high” tier I’d look at more of the Focal, Morel, etc. stuff as those are brands that make some of the highest end speakers out there, also Audiofrog are very good speakers. There are also a slew of Euro brands like Steg, Gladen, Audison, Blam etc. that make great stuff just a little harder to find in the U.S.

Helix is another great brand that makes really good amps and speakers.

For a wicked system I’d maybe look at doing Stereo Integrity TM8’s in the front doors, their MK28 tweeters in sail panels, and their passive crossovers. The Helix Ci7 line would be another great choice but they don’t make passive crossovers so you’d need a DSP or DSP-amp.

For the Stereo Integrity speakers you’d need a fairly powerful amp, maybe a 6 channel with channels 1-2 and 3-4 bridged to power the front stage, 5 and 6 for the rear doors, and then a mono lock amp for your sub(s), or, a solid choice would be the Audison SR 600 to power your front stage and sub channel, and then leave the rear doors stock or get some cheapo burner speakers to toss back there on head unit power.

If keeping the stock head unit you’d either want a DSP amp, or something like a Kicker Key LOC with auto dsp.

To summarize all that and propose just one of many systems you could do:

Kicker Key LOC
Audison SR600 in 2-channel input mode
Stereo Integrity TM8
Stereo Integrity MK28
Stereo Integrity Passive Crossovers
Single shallow 10 or 12” sub box
Single shallow sub like Audiomobile Evo 24 10” or 12”, Stereo Integrity BM-11
Sounds Good Stereo speaker adapters and amp rack
AutoHarnessHouse factory wiring integration harness
Foam speaker rings
Sound damping for doors

 

Tweeters in the front door sail are a good idea.
With a decent set of front door components, I disconnected all three dash speakers.

The OEM non-JBL door sails have a slight curve to them.
If you want something flat to work with, Taco Tunes makes some or go with OEM JBL sails like I did.

TTunes


OEM JBL, I cut the grilles out and fitted my tweeters.



I love my front door speakers, but they are bit pricey.
I only paid about $550 nine years ago..

Focal PS 165 FXE Performance Series 6-1/2" bi-amplified component speaker system at Crutchfield

I put these in the rear doors, my DC doesn't have tweeters back there.

Focal Performance 165AC Access Series 6-1/2" coaxial speakers at Crutchfield

 

Great ideas on the speakers , what amp do you recommend if I wanted to add base later? What single bass and box? Do I need to upgrade the HU ? What about the connections/harnesses? And will the phone mic still work through the dash if you disconnect the dash speakers? I use the phone mic through the truck all day for work.

 

Don't waste your time with the factory headunit

That is the start of the problem with the tundra sound system.
You have no control or tuning capability with the factory radio.

Here is my setup 2016 crewmax
Headunit. Jvc kwz1000w
3 way front stage. Stereo integrity mk25 Tweeters, m3 carbon midrange, tm65 in the doors


Amp 1. Sony xmgs4. The gs4 is a well known budget sound quality amp on car stereo forums and will put out over rated power. They are really good for $198
Amp2 sony xmgs4
Amp3 Sony xmgs100. Amp is rates at 600w at 2 ohms. ,it will do just over 800 watts with no clipping,

I can not recommend the Sony xmgs4 enough. Over the years I have used pioneer premier amps, us acoustics, ct sounds, alpine , linear power. To me the xmgs4 for mids and highs out perform other amps I have used.

Subs. 2 8 inch subs behind the rear seat

Zapco dsp z8

All ofc power wire
I also ran new ofc speaker wire. Can get sky high audio on ebay at a decent price.
Stinger 8000 series rca cables
Nvx sound deadening.
Every wire connection is either hydraulic crimp, soldering, or wire ferrule.
All amp gaines set with an oscilloscope.


Only thing I am planning on changing is I have a set of gatley seat brackets.
I am going to run 3 ten Inch subs on a us acoustics 1500w Mike amp


Here is the problem with the factory tundra radio
1. The factory radio is garbage. Replacing is a must to get a good setup.
2. The center console has alot of cancelation on the door speakers.
3. Even with the jbl sail panel for Tweeters are to far off axis.
4. You really need an audio source that gives full control of each speaker. You need to be able to control crossover settings, gain, eq of each speaker.
This is where the DSP comes into play.
If I was not going to run a dsp really the only headunit to look at is the Sony 9500es. It has a lot of tuning options that are close to a dsp if running a 2 way setup.

 

I run a Sony XAV-9000ES as my head unit, same guts as a 9500 just smaller in dash screen. I'll be devil's advocate and say replacing the stock head unit isn't an absolute necessity for all listeners and the JBL sails are decent enough tweeter location as well.

I do agree if you're keeping the factory head unit some sort of DSP is all but necessary. For a very modest but still great system keeping the stock head unit, I'd probably do a Kicker Key 200.4 (50w rms x 4 channels @ 4 ohms), a Kicker Key 500.1 (150w rms @ 4 0hms, 300w rms @ 2 ohms, and 500w rms @ 1 ohm), JL Audio C1 components in front, JL audio C1 coaxials in rear, and all the bits and bobs I posted before like speaker adapters, foam rings, amp rack, single shallow sub box, and a single shallow sub.

All totaled there you'd be looking at something like:

Key 200.4: $280
Key 500.1: $280
C1 Components: $150
C1 Coaxial: $120
Sub Box: ~$100
Sub: ~$300-$500
Wiring: ~$100
Amp Rack: ~$75
Speaker Adapters/Foam: ~$150
Sail Panels: ~$50
Sound Damping: $50

=~$1800

Skip a thing or two, get a cheaper sub etc. and you're probably around ~$1500 total. Get a higher end sub and do everything above and you're around ~$2000.

 

What’s your opinion of the plug and play alpine stuff TrailGridPro offers?

 

I did my Sony head unit from them and had no complaints, mostly was just a time saver for me because i was doing a whole big install. As far as wiring a head unit and programming an iDatalink Maestro it’s all pretty straightforward/you don’t need to be too tech savvy, but you do need a computer/basic computer skills and I’d guess that wiring and programming yourself might take a few hours vs if you get one of the Trail Grid Pro pre-wired ones it takes literally 15 minutes to install.

As far as their speaker bundles Alpine or otherwise I would pass, think you can get better speakers and their markup for what they do isn’t worth it.

 

you can certainly keep the stock head unit and speakers to start with.
I did on my 2016 and still run the stock speakers except for the dash.

This was my setup prior to getting a Dasaita Android HU.
Stock head unit, LC7i LOC Kenwood 5 channel and single sub.