Vibration @ Hwy Speeds

I would loosen and re-tourque your pinion flanges. Do you have play between ftont and rear flange of TC?

 

I had a weird 35-45 mph vibration. Back tc flange was hair loose and one u joint needed a ton of grease to push through all the seals. Grease would only weap out of one. Caught it early. Axle hop maybe?

 

Aftermarket wheels that aren't hub centric?

 

We’re gonna find out soon if my problems are my tires, picked up some 4Runner wheels and tires. Gonna give them the factory trash edition spray paint.

 

In my hunt to solve the problem I got the wheels road force balanced and rotated again, replaced the carrier bearing and no change. I'm not sure where you all are feeling it most but mine definitely seems to be most noticable in the floor with the steering wheel just seeming to resonate lightly with that shake as opposed to being a wheel shake.

I'm leaning heavily towards it being my aftermarket CVs but I'd like to rule out most other things before swapping them out again. I still have my OEM axles but they're pretty rusted and have torn boots so they'd be for testing purposes only.

My other thought would be engine/trans mounts. Anyone else run down the rabbit hole?

 

So new tires definitely solved the vibration problems but I’m not sure if cupped tires were a symptom of greater underlining problem, only time will tell.

 

Welp... there you go. It is the tires/wheels after all. Not the first time, won't be the last.

Now ultimately it's only a matter of figuring out: Is it that the tires are cupped, is a wheel bent, or is the shop you chose just really shit at balancing things?

There's a myriad of ways to handle this. Now the old wheels are off, some options you may want to explore:

• You could swap on two of the original wheels/tires onto the front (only two, on the front specifically, front tires out-of-balance typicall cause more shimmy). Go drive around at 60mph+, does it shimmy? If not, swap the other two on, repeat, does it shimmy? Maybe you can isolate the problematic wheel(s)/tire(s).
• You could pretty easily check for cupping, visually inspecting for high/low spots on the tire, or use a straight edge. If the tires were still mounted and you had a slab of chalk, you could chalk them and go drive around, anywhere there's a low spot, the chalk will remain. It's harder to spot cupping on a tire with lots of tread. I don't remember if you said how much wear your tires have.
• You could try balance beads, @des2mtn was talking about them recently. Remove your valve core, dump them into your tire, and they auto-balance at speed (video below). If balancing is your issue (not cupping or bent wheel), this may be a cheap solution?
• If no luck, you could take a minute to clear all the weights off, remove their adhesive, wipe all surfaces down with oil, then take them to another shop for road-force balancing. Maybe pick an offroad shop, specifically, if one exists near you?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZQXPLfOPXc​

 

The front tires were definitely cupped closer to the middle of the vehicle, the front driver had an uneven wear like it was hopping. Truck drives way smoother now, I think it’s time for an alignment though. I swapped all wheels plus tires. Didn’t take them to a shop jet put them on my

 

Yeah, that's some pretty wicked toe wear, and definitely cupped on the outer edge too. Notice in that outer edge that's worn smooth, on two of three middle lugs you can see the tread lines, but there are no tread lines visible elsewhere.

You definitely need toe corrected. And

 

Okay I’m sorry I keep coming back here lol but unfortunately my vibration is back but not as bad with the cupped tires. I’ve been doing some research and came across ECGS bushing for the cv axles? Could that be causing my issues?

 

Driveline is more commonly felt in the seat..9 times out of 10 it’s going to be hubs, bearings, tires, wheels if you’re feeling it in the steering wheel.

 

#1 way to tell if it's the needle bearing is it goes away when put in 4 wheels drive. Have you read through that thread?

Also have you got an alignment yet?

 

I have read through it kinda why I bring it up. I get the vibration at speeds greater than 60 so I can’t push 4wd that far, I have new suspension coming because of how my tire looked after I changed it look like it was hopping, after installing new suspension I have an alignment set up.

 

Shit, feels like the whole truck shakes haha

 

I've been in the same boat with the vibration happening only at 60mph or above at steering wheel. I got a new rack and pinion and outer tie rods just done, and new alignment/balance (all that solved a ton of other vibration and rumblings I had). I suspect at this point in my case, likely the wheel bearings, cv axels, possibly even transmount.

 

I'll say it again: Greater than 60 (in the 55-65mph range) and felt in the steering wheel is typically tires/wheels (potentially bearings, but I'd expect symptoms of play/crunchiness with the front wheel jacked up.

You can absolutely do 60mph in 4HI, just need to engage it before you hit 40-something.

 

I have new upper and lower ball joints, front wheel bearings and hubs all oem just done like 3k miles ago, RP bushings, completely new rear section of driveshaft. The next things I'm looking to get into all four shocks, alignment, rear wheel bearings when I get the time (shop needs my truck for two days), new CVJ axles and ECGS bushing. If that doesn't solve my problems than Idk I guess I just have a shaky truck haha

 

It’s suspicious as hell the wobble went away with the new wheels and it gradually came back. Especially when your old tires clearly show signs of cupping.

Are you 100% positive a wheel weight don’t fall off? (It happens, frequently, you may see signs of residual glue next to your current strip of weights or on the inside lips of the wheel)

Have you tried rotating front to back?

Are you over-torquing the lug nuts?

There has to be something here being missed.

 

I completely replaced the wheels and tires, I haven't rotated front to back yet and I'm planning to have all the tires rebalanced with tmps sensors soon so well see, I'm torquing my lug nuts to 100 ft pounds I know the oem spec is 84 but this is what my tire guy recommend.

 

I've had weights fall.off within a week or 2 after having balance done at Discount tire.

I've also had something as simple as re-centering and aftermarket wheel fix a shake (can't remember if they were hub or lug centric wheels).

 

I aim for 90-95, nothing wrong with 100.

 

I have factory 4runner wheels and tires on my truck

 

Um, go by the manual before trusting "your guy". It's there for a reason.

 

Every vehicle manufacturer specifies a torque value for lug nuts, which is the amount of force that should be applied when tightening them. This specification is crucial for several reasons:

• Ensures even distribution of pressure across the wheel.
• Prevents warping of brake rotors.
• Reduces the risk of wheel detachment while driving.
• Extends the lifespan of both the lug nuts and the wheel assembly.

Over-tightening can lead to a host of problems, including stripped threads, broken studs, and warped wheels. It’s not just a matter of cranking down on those nuts until they feel tight; it’s about applying the correct amount of force to ensure safety and performance.

 

I know this has happened to a couple folks here lately, and I'm one of them--my problem was an out of round aftermarket drum. Vibration in the steering wheel at above 60mph or more. Found out my passenger drum was out of round, ordered an oem drum from Serra Toyota and threw it on...absolutely amazed at the difference it made. Truck runs incredibly smooth on the highway now going over 70. Dont forget to check drums when tracking down Vibration issues

 

So I drove the truck in 4wd hi and honestly I couldn't feel the difference. I don't have a lot of straight roads where I'm at so getting up to speed besides being on the freeway is difficult. I get my new shocks delivered today so Hopefully I'm able to install them tomorrow and get an alignment asap, see if my problems go away.

 

Hey there,
How were you able to diagnose this? I have steering wheel vibration at 45-55 and above 65

 

When was the last time you checked control arm bushings or diff bushings?

 

The upper control arm bushings, especially on the passenger side, make a creaking noise when the truck is pushed on, or when getting in and out of the vehicle. Also when driving slowly on an uneven road… It could be that for sure, but I honestly pegged that as more of a lubricant issue as the bushings don’t look too awful.

 

I took my truck into an alignment shop and they wouldnt even touch my truck because of bad they are I'm hoping thats my issue just waiting on parts to fix. also my diff bushings are pretty bad as well my diff is actual resting on my frame cross member. It was differently easier to see the bushings while on the lift while laying on the ground underneath the truck everything looks okay