What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Looking at a 2000 V8 4WD (random) VIN, here's the timing cover area to get the standoff fastener: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck40/3802/engine/1106/

Weirdly, there's two part numbers, this is one 90109-06320, this is the other 90080-10317.

Apparently you know which is correct - deductive logic, I think? - based on Toyota's direct exploded in the Parts System, looks like the shape of the timing plate (11341 in the pic) dictates which to use. That's the best I can tell at least. It also shows a different part number passenger to driver, where bank 1/driver ends in 8 and bank 2/passenger ends in 7.

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I ordered 90080-10318
If you look up the other number on parts .Toyota.com it says its superceeded. Maybe because the old part number has the strength of room temperature cheese?

New seal in! Hopefully seated all the way

 

Driver and pass are totally different lengths

 

Ah, I thought you were holding the one up in front of bank 2. My comments refer to that fastener. Part ending -10318 is driver's side, and spikes thru one of the ears of the cam position sensor.

 

Ps - I dunno if the non-VVTi timing covers are like the VVTi timing covers on the '05+ but beware, there are (or may be) metal bushing-like metal inserts in the timing cover that can fall out, get lost, or if you're like @Weagle they can get launched into the inside of your hood with a BANG! by the belt.

 

Yup. Wish new covers weren't so expensive

 

Popping it out, slathering some grease on it or in the hole, and reinstalling will ensure they don't fall out (you may already know this trick, using grease to hold stuff in - clearly you're mechanically inclined feel free to tell me to shutup whenever ).

 

Helicoil?

 

Cheaper and easier to paint it?

 

I know enough to get myself into trouble

Anyone know if it's safe to use the screw trick to remove the crank seal? The seal puller I bought for the job broke when doing the second cam seal (perhaps user error?)


I also have one of these, but it seems a bit unwieldy


It seems like the crank seal is shallower than the cam seals and I don't want to damage anything that might be behind it.

 

My seal puller looks like the bottom one. Havent used it on the 2uz yet.

 

As it turns out that other seal puller didn't work very well for me. Like the cam seals the crank seal has a metal core, and I was just denting it. Ended up drilling a tiny hole and threading in a screw to pull it. Cleaned very carefully afterwards.

 

@RUSTYNUTS showed us a pretty effective way to remove the pre-2005 sales at one point, but hell if I can find the reply.

If I had a reasonable place to paint something that large that was convenient, I'd consider it. But wrapping is so much easier, and a no-brainer, that I dunno if I ever really want to paint anything again.

 

How much preload are you running on your coilovers, and what size tires! I’m still trying to fine tune my setup.

 

Have you watched tinkerers adventure videos on how preload is a red herring for harshness? (It's actually top out, likely from excessive lift or lack of rebound damping)

 

Swapped some LCA’s &

I’ve worked on enough trucks to know that preload is directly related to ‘harshness’. Its not magic, its math.

 

Funny, because if you watched tinkerers video you'd see that he shows the math that preload isn't the cause of harshness. Is it related to it? Yes. But it's the not preload in itself

 

Yea, some cherry picked figures wont alter my prejudice.

 

Willful ignorance, more power to ya. Just trying to share some helpful information but you do you. End result is the same, but spring rate doesn't change. Cheers!

 

Did a second pass from last week's cleaning on my evap coil and got it as clean as I could. Highly recommend using bottle brushes to really get in there if you cant find those small nozzle shop vac attachments that'll fit inside that tiny space. You can manipulate them to whatever shape you need to reach in. These are what I used Holikme Bottle Brush Tube...

$10 Holikme Bottle Brush Tube Cleaning Lab Set with Long Handle, Cup Cleaner for Washing Narrow Neck Beer Wine Decanter Pipes Lids Sinks Cap Covers, White

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086D7SX8K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Before I patched the hole I had on the housing, I used one of the narrow brushs to snake it around to get stuff stuck in the corner by the hole. I was able to literally shovel stuff out of the hole and it worked to get damn near all debris out of there. Then did another spray with foaming coil cleaner. That hole in the housing almost acting as its own vent and could feel air escaping/blowing out into the passenger footwell when the ac was blowing. Taped it up with ultimate gorilla tape when I finished.

 

I also finally fixed my damn AC/climate control knob that would only turn 3/4 on the cool side. Second picture show where the vents that run behind the center console from driver side footwell to passenger side have been removed. I had to take these out to get enough access to the actuators on the passenger side (pic taken from driver side). Took the lowest panel off first (the one with the cigarette light and 12v plugs). Then cleaned out all the dirt, dust and tested the knob while observing whats going on with the levers and cables. In my case, it was one particular pin and corner of an actuator that was dirty and blocked full motion. Lubed up all the wires/cables I could and finally got it working. Satisfying as hell to get it working properly.

Also, I broke the stupid push pins on the console panel (because of course I did ) anyone know if theres a part number to be found to color match? Or not, I dont even care if matches at this point as long as its the right size

 

Thanks for posting this. I know there's been write ups on this before, but this is the exact problem I've been having. I cleaned what I could from the driver side without removing any plastic (because yeah, you're sure to break something), pulled the bezel and control knobs and lubed everything, and kept lubing the heater control valve cable in the engine compartment, which I've been thinking was my limiting factor. But still can't turn the knob all the way to cold. Maybe it's that same pin you cleaned...I'll try it today.

 

Yessir, the pins and actuators on the passenger side controls the AC part. You may be able to reach most of them without removing the vents, I'd try looking first to see what you can do. But if you pull the vents, they are held by a 10mm bolt and philips screw that youll be able to see after you pull the console panel off.

Yeah I cleaned these too. And lubed the cable there. But i figured out that when I forced the teeth from turning the knob all the way to cool, it would bounce back to the previous tooth/notch and i could kind of hear where it was sticking/ holding up at. Tracked it down to that area for mine. But if you clean everything down there, all the tracks that the pins travel in, etc, you'll find it

 

Im around 7 to 8 turn from the top. I achieved about 2.25 of lift with a custom tube bumper.

 

Just look what 2016 pirates712 did
Good thing I only did 12k miles between timing belts. No wires damaged. I have some extra loom I'll throw over it.

 

Dear younger me,

 

You'd be surprised what a longer wheel base does on trail. My advice is you're not used to longer/bigger rigs is setup the rear end. Always spot lines to get your rear tires where you want them. The front you can easily swing around. On steep inclines the LWB feels so much better. I took my 2.5G up hells gate and rode in a 5G4R right after both on 37's and it feels completely different. Literally felt like the 4R was going to flop over and the tundra felt tolerable haha.

 

Interesting. Cool, thanks for the tips. Yes probably I just need to get used to the longer wheelbase. Most of it was the rock/gravel mining road I was on. I'd have a front tire against a rock I wanted to drive over, and a rear tire would start spinning in loose rock. Possibly the Tacoma would have done the same thing, but I remember it being very rare with that truck, ever, where it happened twice in 100 yards with the Tundra. But I still made it. The Tacoma would have got less pinstripping...but that's ok. Yeah, I'm still getting used to both the length and width of the Tundra.

I'm mostly lining things up for clearance, making sure the tall rocks don't scrape my undercarriage. Thinking less about avoiding putting a rear tire in loose gravel right when I really need traction. Which obviously caused me some trouble.

 

Yessir. Front end is point and shoot, but the rear end is like dragging a trailer with you. Also two pedal driving. Even with LSD I've tend to crawl or get through obstacles like you're driving a manual car. On the brake, then gently roll into throttle (you'll use more than you're used to since you're on the brakes), ease off the brake like a clutch barely grabs and hold it there (modulate as necessary) and apply more throttle. You'd be surprised at how much more compliant and uneventful going through stuff can be. A lot more consistency and smoother. If you have to let off the gas you don't roll back. Takes some practice, but once you get the hang of it you'll never stop doing it.

My 03 does not love to grab traction on gravel roads especially without weight in the back. Even in 4wd it likes to slide around a bit at speed when I start pushing it.

 

Oh wow, two pedal driving. I'll definitely try that out for the first time when I'm alone so I don't get laughed at. I can see it taking some getting used to. I only stopped driving a manual just over a year ago, so I should be able to convert the skills without too much work. I've done it driving up onto ramps in a friend's garage, but never out on a road.