Removing leveling spacer and rear lift blocks

Hey guys,
The previous owner of my truck had installed front levelling spacers and rear lift blocks. I’m in the process of replacing some suspension components and I’m wanting to delete the entire lift kit. I just like the look of stock.

I’m familiar with how to remove it all, but is there anything else I should know about? Would there have been stock lift components in the back? Thanks!

 

Only thing I can think of is out back. Some of the trucks had an angled shim (wedge, really) out back where your life block is currently mounted that rotated the axle housing a couple degrees forward or backward, but I’m not 100% clear on how to know if a truck is supposed to have one. The wedge itself would help with axle wrap, longevity of the carrier and joints. It’s entirely possible the PO who installed the blocks maybe left it installed, if that’s possible.

Personally, I think these trucks were too low in the front by a long shot from the factory. They sit about 1/2” too low IMHO with about 1-1/2” to 1-3/4” front to back difference in some cases. A 1” rake looks far better on these trucks and if I were in your shoes, and wanted to get back to stock, but add some handling & response improvements, and get rid of the factory ass-up stance without leveling, I’d buy some Bilstein 4600s, new top hats and the correct spring isolators, and a pair of OME 2883 springs. For your AC/4WD it shouldn’t give you more than 1/2” lift up front and, I believe, have your truck looking like it should have from the factory, while maintaining/restoring the factory ride.

What tire size is currently on the truck?

 

Thanks. The current size is 267/75/16 which I’m surprised the PO didn’t put 17” rims on it with the lift kit he installed. The rims are aftermarket as well and I’ve been looking for a set of Toyota rims. I honestly just like the look of stock Toyota rigs. But, I know see what you’re saying. Looking at some pics with that in mind, they do sit a little low with the stock lift.
My main concern, and my personal preference for stock aside, is that I’ve read several threads on here saying that lift blocks are overall bad for out trucks??

 

Strut spacers are bad because they push the entire suspension triangle down, which is not great for geometry and travel.

Lift blocks are bad because they contribute to axle wrap, detract from pinion angle.

I guess that would be the best two-sentence succinct way I could explain it.

 

@shifty` not to threadjack, but the OME 2883 show up in Google as a 3rd gen 4R spring. Would this work for a levelling type lift on 1GT? Getting tired of running OE springs on 3rd notch 5100s.

 

The following chart highlights the OME springs compatible with 1GTs (not 'made for' but 'compatible with'). How much lift you get depends on (A) your cab type and (B) whether you're 2WD or 4WD. Handling quality will revolve around which strut you choose. Also important to mention, to use OME springs you'll need these isolators and if your current struts aren't factory/OEM you'll probably need these tophats.

Approximate lift expectations per model number and cab/drivetrain type can be found in the "Suspension wheel & tires..." section of the community megathread for all cab types. We really should work on similar data for Dobinsons, but there's less info out there. OME has tried & true numbers at this point with probably a hundred or more installs I've seen here in the community with all chassis/cab types.

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And in case it's too buried, here's that info from the community megathread:

• Guidance to pick the right lifted spring w/Bilstein 5100/4600: With OME (Old Man Emu, not 'OEM') springs, it can daunting which spring to pick, between the 2883, 2884, 2885, 2886, 2887. We have tons of user experiences and know what you can expect better than any vendor:
  • For OME springs you need these isolators and if your current struts aren't factory/OEM you'll probably need these tophats.
  • For AC/RC with 2WD, both V6 and V8, you'll get near-level with OME 2883. Don't do 2884 unless you plan a rear lift.
  • For AC/RC with 4WD, go 2883 for a sport rake, 2884 to get level, don't go with 2885 unless you plan a rear lift
  • For nearly all DC applications, 2883 for near-stock ½-¾" lift, 2884 for slight rake, level w/2885, if you plan 1-2" rear lift, 2887 is probably your choice.
  • With any suggestion given here, your lift may take a bit to settle at final height.
  • If you're AC/RC be forewarned: Nearly all who doubted the above were left squatted out back, thinking 2884 or 2885 was right for their AC/RC 2WD truck. It'd just not the case, and a lot of vendors don't know/bother to inform their customers, so heed the above.

 

I'm running 2884s on bottom circlip of the 5100s and it's damn close to level on my AC. Your profile doesn't say which configuration your truck is, so your results may differ.

 

DC. Never noticed it didn't include that. Will update now.