What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I have Fox on mine, 2.5 with reservoirs, and I’m not impressed.
The rears I have are actually for a 2nd gen tundra that were tuned by AccuTune. Those ride and handle the best.
The fronts did not come adjusted like they said. The hoses to the resis are too long and you can’t mount them where the instructions suggest because your tire will rub them. They don’t come with a spanner wrench, you can’t adjust them on the truck. The fittings for the hoses are not in a good location. I adjusted my coilovers for 3 inches of lift and the rebound is too hard/fast so the DSC doesn’t matter there. They need a longer or stiffer spring.

 

I've got Kings on front and 5160 in rear. The rear is pretty smooth. The front is a little harsh because I have 700lb shocks. But I figure once I get a winch, that might even em out a little. But as far as the type of off roading I do, it's a great set up. Not meant to go fast off-road.

 

Clearly, zero Fox given.

 

At the very least you'd need some of these to convert the eyelet to stud

 

Is there a good DIY thread on this in sticky?

 

DIY for what process?

 

Ac condensor/flush. May have quoted wront post.

 

I cleaned the blower vent.

I will probably pull the blower motor resistor out soon, vacuum out the housing, and hit the coil with FrigiClean in the near future though. I’ve got a process on here for that.

 

Are you going to sacrifice a little airflow for the cabin air filter mod?

 

I won’t. I wouldn’t mind pulling the evap and giving it a legit foam cleanse and a recharge. I need every cfm I can get.

 

I think I want to do that too, but then maybe add an e-fan and the filter.

 

Out of curiosity are those his kings?

 

They are

 

With Eibach coils, right?
Or maybe Wheelers?

 

Got some wires staged. Gentex harness to kick panel. Temp sensor to kick panel. Brake controller output connected.

To Do after oil change series this week:

1. connect temp sensor harness to Gentex harness (2 purple 22 gauge)
2. Connect battery, ground and ignition (have a T harness for the radio ready to deploy but might go a cleaner way
3. Connect circuit breaker and feed brake controller 30A of power.
4. connect circuit breaker and ignition switched relay in engine bay for trailer power.

Then it’ll be on to more fun stuff like switch-pros.

 

A fan over the condenser?

 

Don't get me lying...whatever the heck that AC radiator thing in front is called

 

I know the stock sequoia fan wont fit without a little fabrication (on an AC).

 

I was ordering parts for my timing belt replacement and decided to check what the pricing is on a new steering rack with the memorial day sale going on. My rack has been weeping a bit for the better part of a decade so it's been on my list to do before toyota discontinues the parts.
Due to NYS rust, I'm in the habit of planning on replacing all the parts adjacent to the thing I actually want to replace, so I also ordered tie rod ends, bushing, and the intermediate shaft assembly. I looked up the pricing for the power steering lines and they're over $500! I took a look at my lines and by some miracle they actually look new!?! They have paint and everything! Maybe they were replaced as part of the frame replacement? They'll probably break anyway when I try to remove them just to spite me.

 

The little ass lines for the rack?! I'd suspect the one going into the rack on 2nd photo might bust.
The rack is usually around 700 give or take iirc.

 

Hell no. Not worth it.

Not knocking on folks who opt to run a filter, I’d reconsider if I were in a dusty area, but with humidity here, I’d be worried about organic building up and causing other growths.

 

The line in the second photo is part of the rack for comparison to the lines in the first photo which are the ones I'll have to remove.

 

If you do need new lines, I recommend the Suosong lines from RA. I have them on mine and they work great. 3 years long now.

 

so how much was a dealershit steering rack?

 

Just the rack:

 

nope. My shit can drip. One of these days i’ll have to get a steering box for a SAS.

 

I mean, I wouldn't be mad at that as long as it's the exact same OEM quality. That factory rack lasted 25 years and it's barely leaking today. I guarantee you, you're not getting more than 8-10 years out of any aftermarket rack, and they run $275-375 for decent brands last I checked. Hell, I'd be surprised if you got 4-6 years out of most of today's aftermarket brands. Say you got the better part of that 6 years out of each and they ran $325/pc. That's three rack installs and $975 in the same timeframe the $726 OEM rack lasted.

Man, it's a hell of a shock to the wallet, but when you look at the bigger picture of "buy once, cry once", with OEM longevity ... it's a no-brainer to me.

 

If my rack takes a full on shit, I’m thinking of rebuilding it with the OEM seals. I’ve already accidentally got one of the internal cylinder bits with O ring seal.

 

I’ll have to break my steering wheel and wollar out or crack mounts to trade about a bottlecap worth of leak every oil change.

gonna order stuff for VC gaskets. All my leaks are starting to stink on hot days. Anyone got a hotlink to ‘02 gaskets & the o-rings & fipg p/n’s?

 

The Car Care Nut has converted me from aftermarket parts. Last year I had to do a rear axle seal/bearing and replaced the after drums/shoes with OEM ($$$). Stopping power is much better, and no the old brakes weren't out of adjustment.