What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I think it's in the fine print that they will leak lol. My rears started within the first year of installing. Got the stuff to rebuild just need to find a decent video on how to. Just disappointed that it happened so soon for what they cost

 

What model of Billies are you coming from? I cant help but think id prefer kings or some other progressive shock like ADS possibly. Ive only had stock or Bilstein 5100 and now 6112. Both digressive. I would really like something smoother over washboard roads and such and have an itch to try kings up front. Also not sure what id run in the rear since king doesnt make rear shocks for our trucks. Maybe progressive in the front and digressive 5160s in the rear? I dont know just thinking out loud. I should probably give king a call and see what they think.

 

I bought new leaf packs and an AAL. I don't carry weight in the bed so I don't need increased capacity. The AAL was just for lift and more flex.

 

I think ADS is digressive as well. @memario1214 was saying to go with 6112s, Alumas, or ADS for crawling. I could be wrong and mis-remembering.

 

Getting ready to order Bilstein 5100's with 2884 springs and new mounts from 1stgenoffroad ($1072.10 after tax)....are there any coupon codes or better deals out there?

 

Honestly, that sounds about right, or a great deal if Josh is going to pre-assemble. Typically the 5100s run $650-750, the 288x springs run around $250, and assembly around $125.

You may be able to wait until Memorial Day next Monday and score a deal, but ... Josh is a reputable vendor, you may not get the same with someone else.

 

Thanks for the input. Pairing that with the blue sumo springs in the rear so I can load her down and not sag, new ubolts. Pulling the cv's after memorial weekend to reboot them as they have been torn a while. Got the Porsche boots inner and OEM outer (I have new OEM inner if anybody wants to make an offer). Any advice on boot clamps OEM style vs SS worm style clamp?

 

Glad to have one side almost done. Had to buy a whole bedside to fix the driver's side but haven't torn into it yet haha

 

If you go OEM, you'll need a proper tool to work with the Oetiker clamps. It may take 2-3 attempts to actually get it tight enough to hold with the newer, steeper angles. Sling has continued to be a problem for some folks.

If you go with the SS worm drive, choose a brand with rolled edge like NORMA, all you need is a ratchet or a screwdriver to install and get as tight as needed. @ToyotaDude dropped the numbers for clamp sizes over here. The smaller 25-40 is clearly for the inner clamps. 70-90 and 90-110 will be for the respective outer/larger clamps. You should be able to throw eyes on the CVs and figure out how many you need of each.

 

ADS is progressive.
@FirstGenVol ADS and King are great and those would be my recommendations. The only other name I would throw out there is Radflo. I haven't tried them yet, but have heard good things and their customer service is good. A little less expensive than ADS. I have nothing bad to say about ADS.
I know they come with a 700# spring which I wish I had tried a 650 because the ride was a little too firm for a while, but no complaints at all.

 

Worm drive it is then. Is it true that there needs to be 2 clamps per side to balance or will one clamp per side be a non issue?

 

I opted for the ear style clamps just because I was nervous about the worm sticking up and spinning and being susceptible to catching debris or hitting something at an odd angle. That thought is not based on anything and is probably not at all likely. But, I found this site that offers clamps in different sizes.

https://hcl-clamping.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopj0r3t9spWydTNKEFgNx9joC3TBizM5VZDr6lRT78CZzLNqBuH

I would definitely suggest getting an oem style clamp tool if you don't go worm drive, and an earless clamp tool if using the oem clamps.

 

@FrenchToasty is who (I think?) originally recommended to use the worm drive to me, and I think he said he's running one per?

 

I also read somewhere putting the worm drive on the outer boot could cause rubbing/contact....anyone experience this?

 

Idk about after the Holley merger, but before that ADS customer service was literally unmatched.

 

Yep just one per each side of the boot

They definitely come close but no contact at full droop

 

I had no idea about that. Good to know. Looks like that took place after I bought them.

 

@Dakillacore @FrenchToasty

Apparently 50k miles of dirt road driving not only left a bajillion fine scratches on the windshield, but also packed the blower motor fan. Here's a little before/after, couldn't even see light thru the blades they were so caked.

DKC, you had smoker tar. I had silt dust. But not anymore.

Oh, and I found absolutely nothing in here, so I assume it was a pine needle and it's already moved along into the evap core housing.

​

 

PS, some bonus shots looking up to the cowl from the motor opening. I wiped it out with a terrycloth shop towel because it had a fine haze of dust cake on the walls too.

​

 

I should probably pull and clean mine. And also I had putting/sand blasted windshield as well until I got it replaced

 

Factory glass, I really don't want to replace mine. I've always heard about cerium oxide, and was inspired by everyones favorite "OHMAH GAHD ITS NAHT A GAAAARRRLLLL" YT celeb make some great progress with it. I'm tempted. To polish my windshiled, I mean.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SH6fvLME2JU#t=4m59s​

 

Pulled the seat belts out and closed the door on them for the power wash and silicone treatment.

 

Small split at the seam on the drivers seat. Creeping ever closer to a leather replacement

 

For some reason I thought you'd swapped out your steering wheel.

 

So the only number I could find on the clamps on my CV's now say 80. So I just need 2 of the 70-90, 2 of the 90-110, and 2 of the 25-40, per side? @ToyotaDude @Shifty

 

How often would you have to condition the leather seats to keep it from cracking over time, or is that impossilble?

 

Depends on if it actual leather or soflex which is what maybe in there which is coated in plastic. No need to condition that..
https://blog.mccarthytoyotaofsedalia.com/2021/05/21/toyota-softex-vs-leather-whats-the-difference/#:~:text=Leather: What's the Difference?,-May 21, 2021&text=First things first: Let's answer,in the making of SofTex.

 

I don't know if this helps but this is from a. New OEM cv

 

With all the dusty dirt roads I drive, I can't imagine how mine looks...I've only had the Tundra just over a year but my old Tacoma had 20+ years of arid western dirt roads under its belt.

 

It blows my mind how many people have issues with Icons leaking. I remember at one point in time the big 3 shocks were fox, icon, and king. Shoot now I'd recommend bilsteins over icon... especially with them dipping their toes into the remote resis these past couple years. But ya with the price they cost, it doesn't seem right at all

Not sure if you could do it for our tundras, BUT on the 1st gen tacomas you could take the rear stock shocks off a raptor, which were fox with resis, and make them fit with a little modification. I'm curious if the tundra could do the same. Had a friend do that and they rode fantastically!

What about Fox?