When you can’t find that pesky oil leak.....

If not, and it's leaking from the front, it's probably cam seal(s), but check your oil fill dipstick tube, and where it mounts to the block for oil, to see if maybe it's venturing down from the valve covers to the lower end via that dipstick tube. There's a chance someone didn't properly FIPG-seal the 90° corners when they either (A) had the valve covers off last or (B) redid the valve cover gaskets. Any time you pop off the valve covers, you really need to be cleaning out and re-sealing both right-angle corners on each head.

Cam seals are a bitch to replace on the '05-'06. If you're 100% positive the oil isn't originating at the valve covers and draining down the dipstick tube, before you get crazy and spend time/money on replacement, try a bottle of ATP AT-205, it shored up my driver's side cam seal leak 100%.

If you need pictures of what I'm talking about on leaking down tube, when leaking from those right angles, see this pic, looks like this could dribble down to the dipstick tube: https://tnstatic.net/attachments/upload_2022-1-8_21-52-38-jpg.683576/

But don't get me wrong, I was told this was driver's side cam seal leak, leaking from timing cover, and it looks like it could also travel down the dipstick tube: https://tnstatic.net/attachments/upload_2022-1-8_21-47-4-jpg.683570/

AT-205 stopped the leak showing in the 2nd of those two pics.

 

I just added 2/3 bottle to Ravioli yesterday. I'll report back in a month on results.

 

What's leaking on the RAV, I forgot? IIRC, it took about 200-300 miles of driving before things quelled. I posted on here as I went along. Basically, I wiped up all the oil, confirmed seepage was still happening. It was, so I added the

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205. Cleaned up after, like, 50, 100, 150, 200 miles, and by the time I got to the 200-300 mile range, no more dribble. It's bone dry to this day.

 

Pretty sure it's the rear main seal. Started leaking in 2018 but I switched to Mobil 1 high mileage and it stopped. Recently I tried Pennzoil and the leak started again. I'll be switching back to Mobil 1 the next oil change. I figured the 205 was worth trying.

 

I'm gathering parts for this job. The Toyota parts site tells me that 90301-67004 doesn't fit my 06 DC but this
(96721-24025): engine oil filter adapter seal does.
That seal (67004) went between the cooler and the extension piece went the cooler cover is pulled off correct? Where dudes finger is in the video? He has the same seal part # you used. Sorta confused...

 

I have attached the diagram I used. I looked up your part number and that doesn't look like it at all, and the diagram doesn't match up

 

I just got off the phone with Toyota parts and he did verify it (67004) fits even though it says it doesn't fit. He said "it's full of shit and 97% accurate "

 

I’ve been thinking of replacing these o-rings. Should the check valve be replaced at the same time?

 

I went ahead and bought the check valve too it was only. If anything it's extra insurance for not having to buy an entire oil cooler? That fuckin little thing is pricey.

 

So was it necessary to remove the center bolt/ check valve to remove the oil cooler assembly? I've seen a few videos, I think one was on a Lexus GX where the guy took it apart and it was a 30mm nut. Hard to tell if it was actually necessary. That same dude didn't clamp the lines going to the oil cooler and somehow didn't lose fluid.

Pic for parts reference to help anyone that stumbles in this thread.

https://youtu.be/-RUXBbS_V9I?si=eGuYZIZGNCYPWXfh

 

Although I did disassemble to replace the o-ring, I do not recall that being necessary to remove the oil cooler assembly.

 

Here's some more on this. Between the numerous threads I've stumbled upon via searching and the different questions being asked I've decided that here is the best place for these. Before I post them I think it's important to again thank @shifty` , @des2mtn , @KarmaKannon , @PHM, @DarknessReigns? @FrenchToasty and so many more that I can't remember handles of atm for the info they put out and help people with. I don't know if ya'll got a better system on your 'puters or what but searching through the FSM PDF is enough to make a person wanna give up lol. 4,000 pages and the search function being a piece of fucking shit about ended this computer today just to get these pics of diagrams and torque specs for the questions I've seen.

 

Shit! I think one of those for the A/C bracket is for the 1uzfe...thank them! This shit is a pita!

 

So I got this done. It's not super bad just time consuming. Pull the inner fender well to get access to a couple of the bolts.
In the photos the pry tool is pointing to the ones that either need to be taken out or loosened.

Remove inner fender liner (this is the bolt that needs loosened but stays in to help hold compressor weight) I started here took it all the way out then threaded it back in a few turns.

Old figure 8 seal


New figure 8 seal
The large seal between the cooler and the bracket was equally as flat.

Remove the accessory drive belt from the compressor in order for you to swing it out of the way. The 14mm accessory belt wrench makes this fairly easy.

The last photo is how I supported the weight of the compressor while working. If you zoom in the adjustable bungee cord is wrapped around the compressor and the hooked to the hook on top of the engine.



I've attached a short for the hidden bolt behind the compressor also

https://youtube.com/shorts/lsy4m2TbNMM?si=I7YSwp6aR9eFaUi8