General Supercharger Thread

The more I think about it, the dumber it gets. They're saying in "normal" mode that you run extremely lean with high boost, but if you push a button it now behaves how it should? So why would you ever run it in normal mode? Oh we set it up that way so it's super fuel efficient? But you can still run dangerously lean/high boost, so you absolutely compromise how the truck is setup most of the time in the name of fuel savings and allowing it to run dangerously lean.

Why would anyone ever want it to be configured like that? And why would it be setup like that in normal mode, where even someone into performance vehicles didn't realize you had to go through extra steps to make it safe to operate in boost? If anything you would think you'd have it the other way, so you had to push a button to put it into "dangerous fuel economy mode", so you could throw the keys to anyone and not worry about it blowing up normally. Maybe I'm misunderstanding your post and what they said, but it sounds absolutely absurd----and I might be retarded but I'm 99% sure power enrichment does not act that way, specifically for the reasons I just mentioned, you don't want the fueling to change just because you changed the throttle sensitivity and shift points.

 

Am I missing a post or something?

 

@nobodyintexas is your vf tuned or hpt?
I believe vf has a few tables to go about PE. If hpt is tow haul just lowering throttle position for enable vs adjusting rpm specific target for PE.
But I agree it should be balls on with your boost psi/PE to keep it safe.

 

hpt

The deets:

I was in a rush to get home today

so I clicked on tow haul

I noticed that my afr behaved much better than normal mode. It dropped to 11 on the same on ramp much sooner

I’m not guessing it was tuned that way. Just an observation

I am guessing the amount of throttle position change- or whatever tow/haul does, is the change I presently need for my present tune

or thereabouts



But I’m lazy and too busy to have this thing in the shop for 3 days.




FTR- This truck behaves perfectly right now.

The trick is to just cruise - like I normally do

and if I want to GO, I simply push the pedal harder than normal. To get past that icky point in the pedal that allows boost before PE

There is no middle ground with this truck right now

in PE, I have seen AFR’s as low as 10.4

 

Sounds like the only real difference here is your throttle is opening more with less movement on the pedal in tow/haul. Despite your perceived throttle input with your foot being less, it is still resulting in more throttle blade opening (higher TPS) to the point of it going into PE whether you know it or not. Mine goes into PE at 36% TPS for example as I monitor it on my SG3.

 

<scratching in notepad>

add tps to SG3 screen

 

I think the scaling on the tow/haul is different than normal, not just the ramp, which could cause you to go into PE at an earlier pedal position. But I don’t think PE is based on throttle position.

 

On the SG3 it’s Throttle position which is a %. It’s not to be confused with throttle angle. When I was having my PE tuned I would be referencing Throttle position % based on the SG3, which was confusing to me as the tuner was referencing Throttle Angle (in degrees) as to where he was enabling and disabling it. Mine kicks in at 36% and out at 32% if I recall correctly, which corresponds to a lower number in the 20s for throttle angle.

 

Yup. There are enable/disable then rpm reference targets for enrichment.

 

Anyone with experience with HPT and hyper tech speedo correctors?

I found a post by @Cruzer that anytime he'd flash his truck, the speedo correction would go away.

Has anyone else ran into this? I found a Hyper tech unit locally but if it keeps resetting itself, I'll hardwire a Yellow box into the cluster.

 

Y’all see this?

https://www.instagram.com/p/DJsSC6iBH0t/?igsh=YXhkeDFqa3d1NWls

 

No. What am I suppose to see besides a white box? Do share.

 

Does that one have clutches to wear out? I think the lack of clutches is my favorite part of the powertrax and speedmaster options.

 

I’ve had clutched LSD’s for decades and never worn clutches out. How are y’all going through them?

 

Ask @blenton what the secret is lol. I had an Auburn with cone clutches in my prior tundra. It was ok, but it definitely didn’t lock up as nice as the powertrax does. I also had an 04 tundra with the factory LSD which I believe was a clutch style. It had around 140k on it when I bought it, but that LSD was nonexistent by the time I got that truck. They claim this isn’t a concern with the helical gear style.

 

I wonder if Detroit makes a locker for these trucks. Good luck breaking that.

 

Only issue is now you have a locker chirping around instead of a LSD.

On the new 9" for my Hilux I went with a spool since the guy configuring the axle said the LSDs weren't worth doing, and the Detroit would be clanging and popping all over the place as it was unlocking. I've heard that from a few people, though never experienced it firsthand.

 

Your Hilux desperately needs that spool! Highway gears still?

 

The Detroit in my k5 is quiet. Can’t even hear it or feel it around corners. The one in my dad’s bronco is a little more noticeable but the manual transmission seems to exacerbate it around corners. Otherwise it’s mild.

 

One of the many reasons I’ll be doing a spool

 

3.50s, should be a bit better than the 4.30s it had before. 3500rpm in 6th was 80mph before, made the gearing in the semi feel really long

 

Ya but you’re a special kinda crazy.

 

You’re not wrong lol

 

I have a Detroit in my buggy front end, but it's 99% on dirt and so fucking loud I can't say I've ever heard it make any noise. I mentioned the same thing to one of my other wheeling friends and he said he had a Jeep with one and the thing was insanely loud when it would unlock.

I'm with you though, if you want an auto locker the Detroit seems to slap. I did have to weld the bolts that hold the carrier together though since they kept falling out, I guess that's somewhat common on them. Easy to fix before installing though

 

3.50s are waaaay better! Hahaha I forgot you mentioned it had 4.30s...that's a lot of gear and rpm at 80!! you had a semi hauler-hauler!

 

I’ll try and grab a vid when I get mine back on the road in a couple of weeks. I’ve always heard how loud they are but mine is silent.

 

Friction Modifer. Lots and lots of friction modifier. Like, $400 worth of friction modifier. I think I paid $550 for the Auburn back in the day and have probably put twice that much in oil and FM in to it...

But even that won't save it from an ignominious death. With less than 10 in^2 of clutch area, the Auburn is hopelessly doomed to fail, unfortunately. Add in what I would consider a manufacturing process failure on the side gear clutch assembly and I'm Team-no-clutch-LSD all day now.


Clutch 'pads' on the spider/clutch assembly. Yes, that shiny bit is where the clutch material used to be. You can see remnants of the clutch material on the top and bottom of the pad, like an old tube TV watch a letterbox movie...







Backside of the side gear/clutch assembly. Side gears are pressed in to cone clutch - which is fine - but there isn't a relief cut taken on the inside edge of the cone clutch. It has worn against the case and had several slivers of metal break off and go through the diff. There's one waiting now to break off. A bevel on that inside edge would have prevented that.




Inside the case. You can see where those metal slivers have gouged out the flat bottom, then been sucked in to the cone clutch to case interface. Also note the heat/chatter marks in the case.





Where the thrust washer on the back of the spider gears meets the case is also pretty gnarly...

 

I burned my auburn out in 4 months. It Does not like burnouts or getting sideways.
Reason for going with the Speedmaster LSD.

 

Went in for an alignment and one tab was goobered up. Will be welding in the Total Chaos Cam Tab Kit.