What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Broke an old one so tried new style. Seem like all the others. Fit great.

$13.99 Upgraded Tundra AC Knobs...

$14 Xislet Upgraded Tundra AC Knobs Compatible with 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Toyota Tundra Accessories Air Conditioner Heater Blower Fan Control Switch Button 55905-0C010, 559050C010 - Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DRCWVGD8

 

Hauled 700 pounds of trash and grass clippings (most of the weight was from "Crackhead Corner") to the landfill today.

Got compliments from one of the landfill workers. "Hey---you got a new ride?" Me: "New-to-me. 201K on her though." Him: "It's OK, it's a Toyota!"

That was a nice compliment.

Filled up three of my vintage gas cans with non-ethanol gasoline and hauled that back, just beating a rain shower.

 

check your breather on the rear diff - make sure it's not junked up as they do. Built up pressure is a sure way to fail your repair.

 

Already replaced the breather when I had the pinion seal replaced when it blew out. Unfortunately, I topped off the axle last night and it started leaking again at the edge of the JB Weld are on the bottom. It's not that bad and I should be able to use it for helping with our move this weekend. But a replacement axle will be in the future after we get moved in.

 

Might be worth a trip to TX.

 

That would be nice, but that is a long haul from Middle Tennessee. I've found a couple useable ones here that are in the $300-600 range for a complete axle. Just have to get the time to go get one. Been a busy couple of months and it isn't slowing down until end of June it looks like.

On that note, how worried should I be about a 300k mile axle? There is an 2wd ABS V-6 axle with the 4.08 ratio in it. At the same place they have a 2wd like mine just no LSD as well with only 200k on it. Trying to decide which would be better to get for the least trouble. There are also a couple of ABS axle housings a little further away that have lower miles on them as well.

 

14May24

Still slow going on the Truck. Got some new tires finally, was also able to find a matching wheel for a spare as well. I’ve had good luck with Falken Tires, so decided to try out these AT4s in 265/75/16.



While I was going hard at buying tires, I got a spare for our 100 series as well in 285/70/17 Falken Rubitrek. Still need to get some hardware for the Rock Warrior Ring.

 

it’s been sitting like that for a year?

 

I just had something odd happen. Put my truck in reverse and let of the brake. It doesn't move. Drop it down to neutral and then back into reverse. Same thing. I then give it a little gas and it slams into reverse at that point. Not good. Got to my destination and it goes into reverse fine.

Hopefully a freak thing?

 

Trans fluid level?

 

Is there a what will I be doing to my 1st gen tundra soon thread?
Found this big ass hole the other day. Thankfully I have a new OEM in a box waiting instead of rebooting again. Guess it's time to order the ECGS bushing too. I don't have severe axle angles but is there a way to slightly stretch the OEM boots without destroying the clamps? Seems they.aleays rub a little on at least 1 rib though I don't think that is the cause.

 

Good tip. Looks like fluid levels are good.

 

Is that overfilled? Fluid looks a little burnt. Could just be background. I can't remember cuz I don't have a dipstick anymore, but bottom notches cold and top notches are hot?

 

Top notches: off, bottom notches:running? Im not a tranny guy, but its bound to drain if the pump isnt running, right?

 

Top notches hot bottom notches cold. Always check while running.

 

Why is there more fluid in the pan while hot? Expansion? An inch or so of difference is alot.

 

Fluid is definitely not burnt. Nice and pink against the napkin when I checked. As for the level, I agree it looks slightly high but this is where it's been for almost 5 years. I did my last transmission service in 2020. 20-25k miles since then. PHM once explained that a dip stick isn't an exact measurement, especially with ATF.

So I think the level is ok..? If the issue happens again I'll report back.

 

Okay. Ya I figured it might have been the background making it look dark. It's certainly not high enough to where it should be causing an issue. Just my initial thought. Hopefully it's a fluke.
Side note: It's funny how you gather an understanding of someone over the internet. My first thought was, "there's no way he'd have dirty shit pumping through his truck."

 

Still riding that high from the differential fluid fixing the shudder (it feels like new it was so bad!) today I figured out what the front end rattle was. The driver said anti-rattle spring was broken! Local parts shop had a new set for $3, rattle is gone. Took the passenger side off and cleaned/greased it hoping it'd get rid of a slight squeal but it's still there damn.

 

Threw on some rainforest shop visors. Got tired of water going in the cab lol.

 

Check to see if the dust shields on both front wheels is touching the rotor.

 

If the dip stick isn’t an exact measurement, what’s the best way to know we filled enough oil? Recently did drain and fill and based my last fill based on Dip stick…

 

New wheels and tires! Got a smoking deal on these off a 22 4Runner. Would personally rather have white letters out but next set I guess!

 

lol

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/boot-slide-mod-no-more-blowing-cv-boots.146070/

I remember this was popular on first gen tacos, back when I had my prerunners. I've never done it myself though.

 

No CEL or pending codes?
Fluid doesn't look terrible, but definitely could stand a drain n fill soonish.

 

And in neutral with parking brake set