Which HU features u have, wish u had, absolutely hate?

This thread might be of more interest to those who are still shopping for a radio upgrade, but will benefit from other FGT experiences, so input fr/recent upgraders appreciated. So far, the price range of my greivances and positive claims, are of below $700 models, but posts of any HU cost-brand-model are welcomed.

Ok, I started thinking Im just expressing my 'old-man' grievances, but after considerable research [and b/c im a 'cheap-bisterd'] and looking/handling the gear at local "b-by" or 'indie-shops', over past few months, I concluded the following as my personal GO/NO-GO of HU features. [I dont have SWC, so I'm resigned to a HHeld Remote, but thats a whole separate universe.]

I decided I absolutely hate VOL controls requiring 'one press at a time' for louder above a number threshold. I could never live w/that.
Related: Of HU's lve actually seen, Sony was the fastest VOL changer [continuous + Press], but Pioneer had the biggest VOL Scale [no doubt as to what youre changing].

Heres another: On Radio source [likely any source], some HU's require you navigate more than 1 key or link for SQ changes. Related: fr/my hands on, some Pioneer and Alpine have a single link shortcut to SQ [major convenient].
Distantly related: Something I havnt seen on any HU in this cost category [ and would be VERY convenient]: Source Based EQ settings memory. IE: Depending on source, your saved EQ's you prefer for FM [music] vs. AM [talk radio] vs. USB or stored music via BT. Seems to me each of those sources have their individual best SQ setting. Some maybe due to type of music, or some based on broadcast vs. recorded. My '20 Corolla HB HU retains different TREB/MID/BASS/BAL/FADR for each source. [but, no volume leveler for any source.?]

One more: AFAIK, Alpine is only one w/ambient 'light sensor' for Auto-DIM. [Major-Major convenient].
Related: Most HUs Ive looked at make you navigate multi pages to Settings>Display>BRIGHT/DIM> On,Off,HeadlightSwitched, or leave it on BRIGHT [so you can wear shades at night]. Absolutely hate headlight switching. Its not often, but major inconvenient when you get auto Headlight-DIMmed on bright rain/snow days when 'Headlights ON' is regualtion. Then how do you resolve out a Dimmed screen?

Because new HU's rarely satisfy all the basics under a certain cost, hoping this will be informative anyone planning upgrade or swap, to hear of manufacturer feature omissions or inclusions that are well done, poorly done to absolute annoyances [but I'll live with it].
Anyway, post your observations, warnings or kudos about your HU others might benefit hearing about.

 

Related to the ambient light sensor complaint you have. I have a pos BOSS head unit I purchased from Crutchfield a couple of years ago. It works fine for my needs, but one feature I loathe is the screen's reflectivity in the daytime, which is exacerbated by the flat, perpendicular angle of our stereo's location in the center dash bezel. In full sunlight I can't see hardly anything. So if you're looking at head units and see lots of people complaining in reviews about "I can't see the screen in the daytime," etc., don't buy it. In fact I'm about to see if there's a screen cover or some solution for this....

 

Thx @JasonC. my complaint is lack of ambient light sensor, which I think you're referring to; it appears theyre nearly non-existent unless its certain Alpines, or like my generic '20 corolla. BTW: If I could transplant that system into my FGT, I'd be elated; it covers all basics very well.
However, I agree about day time visibility deficiency of the 7" universe.

 

I recently had a Kenwood HU installed in my '05. I have the same visibility issue as others. But it appears a bigger mistake was not spending an additional $100 to have wireless CarPlay. The installer routed the USB wire to the glove box, which appears to be causing an issue with the heater/AC controls. When I flip the control from defrost to "blow in your face," there is definitely some interference. Hoping it's easily resolved with an appointment next week, but sure wish I had just spent the extra $100.

 

Very easy to drop that cable straight down and route out around the center console...

Wireless CarPlay unfortunately uses wifi, and I have yet to find a system that doesn't have at least ¼-second lag on keypresses, some as bad as 2 seconds delay when you tap a key. It can be aggravating as hell. No delay with direct wire. Sometimes I don't notice it, other times it's really palpably annoying as hell.

 

Thanks Shifty. I mentioned to the install guy that they had added an iPod cable to the OEM HU about 15 years ago and routed the cable straight down to the center console. Didn't make sense that they routed the USB for the new HU to the glove box. He tried to give me some explanation, but I told him I knew a wire could be routed straight down...they did it 15 years ago. Glad to have your confirmation .

 

IDK to a certainty, but if the current wave of 7" or even 9" HU screens were of same level of quality as our phones or even some tablets, HU prices would be at least $1-2 hundred more, or even more than that. Unfortunately for us, they [electronics industry] know exactly the economics/buyer cost thresholds of this market and their margin. I havent looked at the very top end gear, as in super-amoled displays [if they exist] but im also not remotely interested in dropping $2g+ in order to have good screen visibility under all conditions. It may take a couple years, but its got to get better than current offerings and hopefully for not much more $s.
OTOH, its damn near offensive what some builders currently put out; almost a gauranteed driver safety obstacle- but I digress...
I guess we make our choices and try to find the best recipe for "chicken-salad", if you get the analogy...

Wireless CP/AA, for me, not a game changer. Like another post said: I likely need a charge anyway and wired is still quicker in near all regards. Granted, for some of us, wireless may have wired beat, but I still try to limit access to my data logger [cell device] to a minimum [paranoid conspiracy?].

@Double DC , I guess that 'installer' has never heard of EMF from electric motors [hvac fan?].

 

I know it's possible because I've done it. It's how I installed a flush-mount hidden USB port in my truck for CarPlay and firmware updates: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-add-flush-mount-usb-aux-port-in-center-console.70236/

You may have a slightly different console than I do because you have the DC and I have an AC. However, you'll see in reply #12 of that thread in @artsr2002 (man I hope he's OK, haven't seen him in a minute!) reply #12, how folks with the other center console are managing it. And see reply #18 for a link to the product Art used on his console to get that clean, fresh look.

Plenty of people route the cable down there. And you don't need an installer to do the work for you. It's like 5 screws to pop the center dash face off, and from there you can run the wire yourself.

 

I bought this wireless CarPlay/AndroidAuto wireless adapter for my Atoto F7 receiver 10inch and it works with essentially zero lag. I got on sale for $15. I prefer my current wired Atoto set-up to the wireless Atoto headunit because of actual physical tactile buttons. Anyway, if there was lag that would suck but my personal experience has been great. I don't think that the wireless adapter that I purchased is better or preferred over other ones but it has worked for me.

https://a.co/d/4nL0gix


I'll add, that my wife has a headunit with wireless CarPlay built-in but it would not connect automatically to her phone. I bought her a wireless adapter and it now connects automatically.

 

@G unit3000 : is your AtotoF7 screen viz bright enough during daylight, w/shades on?
Also, what did you have before it?

 

Most of the time, I can see the screen fine even with shades. I just posted on another thread about getting the illumination/dimming function to work on the headunit. Right now, I have dark/night mode on all the time for Android Auto and there have been times when the screen is difficult to see due to the sun or reflections washing it out. See photo below.
I like this current Atoto F7 with wired AA/CP because of the real buttons. I've also got another 10in Atoto F7 receiver with built-in wireless AA/CP and a generic 10in Android headunit. I might switch over to the the Android headunit soon.

 

@G unit3000 ,..is last pic a 9 or 10"?...ever have issues with knuckle clearance betwn the shift lever and edge of HU? Looks close.

 

It's an Atoto F7 g210pe which has a 10.1 inch screen. There is plenty of clearance with the shifter lever and the air vents are minimally blocked.

 

I see on their [atoto] website theyre claiming 'auto-dimming'; presuming they mean headlight switched?
Also seeing on one of the 8 inch models:
"..25w RMS/ 4 Ω @ 14.4 V, 1 kHz, THD 10 %..".
Isnt 10% ten times the standard commonly reported?

My interest level has spiked a bit, given this threads' discussed 'big5' deficiencies. The 'all too common' lack of display visibility complaint has me considering a larger screen install. Of course, then we drift into the >$1000 [if fr/big5] category.

 

In case I havnt worn out my gripes on this thread yet, I concluded the following about the car audio industry offerings for this FGT, and the search for my ultimate HU unicorn...
I keep bouncing my interest level between all 3 builder options for radio upgrade in this FGT [Big5, Offshore Androids or Recycled Toyota 86/iM] .
The features one market has, the other hasn't, or if they claim it, its done poorly...
IE: it seems to me, regardless of price, there will always be something not quite right or completely omitted and depending on need/wants, that something will be the deal breaker. if that makes any sense, [or if not, then Im in temporary ADHD, goin bk and forth into rabbit holes.]

Lately, Im still thinking the Toyota 86/iM option covers nearly all my WANTS, but there are added costs for sourcing harness parts AND, my really big NEED: HHeld Remote, since I dont have SWC in this '06 SR5. I wont go thru the SWC retrofit to my truck, but Ive been spoiled by my '20Corolla SE' SWC and really miss it in this SR5 FGT .
One other NEED item will be missed if I go the 86/iM route [which my '20Corolla has] is ambient light sensing for its display. It works perfectly. Did Toyota customers complain or was there a legal claim saying lack of it proved pivotal in an accident, IDK but I consider it essential. Anyway, it looks like they added that feature somewhere in '19 or '20, at least on Corolla SE's.

So, that brings me back to the 'offshore Androids' market and it looks like ambient light sensing is not part of ATOTO [the only ones Ive looked at]. Would think w/all the user customization theyve attempted, this is a no-brainer, but not so to my knowledge.
On the plus side for them appears to be daytime display visibility is very good, but thats from reviews [highly subjective] I've read of their 9inch displays.
Otherwise, they still have reliabilty/system hang/reset issues, but of course, at comparitively lower price point than 'Big5'.

Then, that brings the ol 'Big5' into focus again. Reverting back to my Need vs Want spectrum, as well as cost spectrum.
I do think Alpine, for me, leads the way for features I NEED: Ambient light sensing display...[unknown if it works well or not tho] AND
HHeld Remote, but the latter comes with a small deficiency.
I have an old remote from my Alpine SglDIN model, which said remote is the one Alpine specifies for the ilx507.
At a local 'indie-shop', the 507 was on the display board, so I took my Alpine HHeldRemote to test the 507 with and it ALMOST does it all, except: AM-FM band selection...for that change Id need to reach over and hit the screen icon to alternate to either. [which based on reception or commercials, I alternate betwn the 2 very often] so, inconvenient and disapointing. [I know, pooor me- how do I get thru the day?] IDK, but the 507 has very good SQ [especially in my case of non-external amp use]. So, other features it claims, almost make up for its incomplete HHandRemote function.
OTOH, IF the ilx507 [due to its HI-RES screen] is better daytime visibilty and the unit is as reliable as my old Alpine 73BT was, I might have to bleed a little. $700 is a lot to let go of for my WANT category.

As a footnote to all this:
At one point over last 4-5 mo's of search, I looked closely a lower model Pioneer [maybe a temp upgrade], of course lacking Ambient Light sensor display control or Hi-Res Screen [But was noticeably brighter than the other 7" Pioneers AND Kw's]. However, notable that its only 14watt rms output [vs. 16 of Toyota 86/iM or 18 watt of ilx507; im still going non-ext amp].
Also lacking Hard Buttons and maybe as bad, all soft buttons on Left side of screen, where I may not see them clearly due to radio port recess of dash panel- oh well.
Some major '2660NEX' plus's:
2 Cam input, includes HHeld Remote that apparently operates all functions except SQ.; a fast and continuous VOL w/large graphic scale. HD-Radio [do I want?] and its not wireless, but i dont NEED.
Then the annoying part got to me [all of us for that matter]:

December 2024:


May 2025:

 

Such a shame given the ease of accomplishment given Toyota 86 is a hell of an upgrade

 

@BubbaW : Always considered it difficult retrofit. Havent heard of many doing it, but then I havent looked. Just presumed difficult and expensive.

How easy is it?
Is wiring already in steering column, dash panel, etc.?
Is a new steering wheel with actual buttons required? [IE: Can a separate control panel be deployed for mounting anywhere convenient?]
I'll look it up.

Agreed on the 86/iM HU; for me, only minus I see is Lt side buttons vs. lower edge. Only other minus sides I see [for some] is 1 cam limit and wired only AA/CP and [not certain] a bit underpowered?

 

I rolled the dice on a chinese headunit (Atoto) and I've been pleased so far over the past 2-3 years....but I'm not an audiophile. I listen to mostly podcasts/YouTube. The price difference made me think it was a risk worth taking. It depends on what you are looking for.
I've seen pre-tariff sub $100 headunits that were advertised for the first gen Tundras, both JBL and non JBL.

 

Personally would not call it difficult by no means and quite a few that have come thru here have agreed. A number posts/threads concening that have been posted.

Instead of answering your other questions and after looking at the below post by @912 when he did his 2005, if you have questions ask away.

post # 114 by @912 ....

2005 Double Cab 4x4 Daily Driver (warning: pic heavy, little OT)

 

I really don't need a lot from my head unit. Not interested in loud music, I mostly listen to audible books or podcasts and if it's music, not that bothered about high fidelity. CarPlay is a must. Wired is fine, in fact I prefer it.
But, three things I don't like about my particular head unit. Guess I should have researched more, but as I said, I really don't care for a ton of features, so just got a JVC that had the connections I wanted. In order of least annoying to most.
1) Volume knob. I really like those better, but if you want a 'trusted' brand, it's just not worth the price point those are at, not for what I am looking for in a HU.
2) HD Radio. Didn't think I'd want it, but there's a channel that plays the music I like (70's - 80's) that's only on HD
3) The fricking reflective glare. I'd expect better from JVC. And I got it from Crutchfield too, I should have returned it but it took me some time to actually install it and then I thought 'maybe not so bad'.

So, I may just sell it, take my loss and get what I actually want. But not yet unless anyone knows a good unit that has all three of those, carplay plus two camera connections, doesn't need an amp and fits in the standard double din.........

 

thx @BubbaW . Im going thru it now and LOOKS do-able for even a non-mechanic like myself...I'll post up on one of those threads for follow-up QnA.

 

Cheap off-brand (Inex) from Amazon, $132. Has Apple Carplay and Android Auto. AM/FM Stereo, CD/DVD player, USB input port, TF card port, and more plus it has the elusive manual volume knob. It can be wired into the backup camera (haven't done that yet) Plays great. Yeah, if I have my polarized sunglasses on it's a bit hard to see but I can live with it.