Metal oil filter cap/assembly

Yup, its typically the same people using a torque wrench when doing an oil change.

 

Tube freshly removed and wiped clean:


After close inspection, my tabs may be slightly bent, but it wasn’t intentional. And if they are, it ain’t much!


Tube reassembled with aluminum canister:





Let’s see if a video works, I did this one-handed while holding my phone:

Nope. No video. Can’t load.

Feel free to Pm me your digits and I’ll text it to you.

 

No need to bend tabs. Use a trim tool to gently apply pressure to the tube without permanently deforming it and it pops right out.

 

What are you manipulating with the trim tool? For comparison, I was able to remove and replace my tube in an 8 second video.
With one hand.

 

I completely disintegrated the plastic one while removing it for the first time doing my own changes. (@10k miles) I was prepared with the metal cap and haven't had a single issue in 6 years ~ 15 changes. I grease the threads, clean everything nice, replace all the o-rings, use TRD filters and never over torque it. I don't think anyone needs the metal one who does their own changes. The plastic is fine when handled properly.... But when does that happen at the stealership?

 

If you have YouTube it works well for forum videos, once uploaded the video will typically be able to be played whi6ll still on the forum.

 

Jeez Louise. I just counted it all up.

I just completed the 31st oil change in this truck in one week shy of 6 years.

That’s 311 weeks since I bought my Tundra. In that time, I’ve put 263.5 quarts of oil in it.

I’ve removed and cleaned the center tube each and every time I’ve changed oil. Still haven’t had a problem with the metal canister… I’d like to go on record as saying I am a pretty decent example of a control group when it comes to good oil change procedure.

 

Damn, just bought a OEM aluminum housing for my first oil change. Going to stick with plastic OEM one now. Had now idea messing with the by pass valve/spring could cause these problems. Good thing I haven't removed it from the oem housing to swap the filter tube. Now I dont even know if I wanna remove the oil filter cap.

 

Don't base your decision to not go over to the aluminum one on this vid alone, its total crap. Some people here think this guy can do no wrong and is some sort of god, but he's not. The Aluminum one is totally fine and taking it apart does not mess with the bypass valve.

 

I swapped my plastic housing for a metal one without any problems. I also didn’t bend my tabs to swap out the center, but that is a little tricky the first time u do it. If u go with the logic that there’s nothing wrong with the plastic one(which there isn’t), then u probably shouldn’t/won’t swap out anything, because almost everything is sufficient. I’ve also swapped rims, tires, led interior lights, trans cooler, and even floor mats…all of which were fine before I changed them.

 

The bypass valve is in the tube that you swap over.

 

I’ll be completing my 37th oil change on my truck in the next couple weeks. Sure hope I don’t ruin it with this metal housing! Lol.

 

I've changed three, count them three, plastic caps to a-loo-min-eum, with center tube transfer, and I'm happy to report all is just fine in Mayberry.

And now a word from our sponsor >>>

 

Which model(s) is the aluminum made for anyway? I'm pretty sure I have one laying around the garage somewhere.

 

I really do not believe that the spring is for the oil pump relief valve. It holds the filter drain closed...The oil pump relief valve is in the timing chain cover..

 

There’s another spring that looks like a 1960’s kitchen range burner in the bottom of the tube. Folks are convinced that the Sienna filter housing has a totally different spring and that we are going to destroy our Tundra motors due to a spring not working.

History has proven otherwise.

 

It's not really a debate on whether or not using the wrong housing with the correct spring will work, it's more about the fact that it fixes a problem that doesn't exist. I'm at 68,000 miles with the OEM plastic housing, no issues. They only break if you put them on too tight. Aluminum housing swap is basically equivalent to wheel spacers and fender flairs just no one can see how cool you are unless they get under your truck and remove your metal skid plate that protects the filter housing.

 

? You are simultaneously stating that the only problem with the plastic filter housing is when people overtighten them, and then ridiculing those people that use the tools to enable them to tighten them to the proper specification. ?

 

Using a torque wrench on oil changes it how things get over tightened tight to begin with. For one the drain bolt will always have some oil on it, making you torque it higher than it should be and the filter housing is sealed by the rubber gasket you replace on it so you just need to to snug it til the ear on it passes the metal stopper clip that prevents it from loosening. There are tasks that require a torque wrench, an oil change is not one of them.

 

This make no sense, atrocious grammar aside.

 

Let me fix it for you since you couldn't understand and I'll proof read to make sure all the grammar is correct. "Using a torque wrench on oil changes is how things get over tightened to begin with." Torque specs are assumed dry threads, it's absolutely impossible to have dry threads on the oil drain bolt since the pan is constantly going to have a drip, unless maybe you sit there for forever. If there is oil on the threads and you use the torque spec, you will over tighten it. Now for the canister, there is a little metal ear that sticks out and tells you exactly where to stop it. If you already know these are prone to being hard to get off, maybe make sure you don't go crazy try to get it to what ever the toque spec is, just get it on til the plastic tab is past the metal ear and you're good to go. If I ever saw someone using a torque wrench to do an oil change in a shop I'd be pretty damn nervous that he has no clue what he's doing. But I guess a smarter idea would be to take apart the OEM canister, replace the spring into a other canister that is metal so I can ugga dugga it on and off instead. Hope ugga dugga wasn't too far off of being incorrect grammer for you. I guess I should expect these types of responses from someone who would take time to refer to themselves as a distinguished member on a forum.

 

Jesus, girls. You’re both pretty…

 

I for one got mine first over tightened around 165k (Toyota dealer) then not touched at all at the next oil change (local shop) and then finally destroyed by a different shop trying to take it off 800 miles away just about 2 weeks ago. I already had the metal housing for no other reason but because it made sense to me even BEFORE I had the issue. When they told me the factory one was damaged it was easy to give them the new and put it on. Plastic or metal as long as it works I am happy. And of course from now on I will do my own changes.

 

You gave them the metal one to put on the way it came? Assuming you're referring to the Toyota metal one, the stock tube that comes in that one is too short for the tundra filter, that's why people take the tube and spring from the stock one and switch it over.

 

No. The shop is small and the guy who worked on my truck cared to listen. I told him the tube needs to be switched. While I attempted to pop it out without bending any tabs I couldn't. He did it without any effort right in front of me. The factory piece cracked and some of the tabs on the outside were broken off (first attempt by the shop with the cheap and crappy housing tool) but the inside tube was in tact, so he was able to swap it out for me. This was after the second attempt and a few days apart. I bought the right tool (Motivx) mentioned on here by several tundra owners and asked him to use that to get the old one off. He ordered one for his shop right after he used mine.

 

OFFS you should either switch to decaf or stop drinking.

Proof reading is something you should do prior to posting so you don't appear an idiot. So is avoiding wild assumptions. Better luck next time.

So you are suggesting that it is better for someone who is learning, to just wing it with a WAG as opposed to using something that can give them a hard data point to start? Got it. How much different is the torque with dry threads versus not? Got any data? WTF does "snug" mean and how do you quantify that for someone who has little experience? Why does EVERY manufacturer give torque specs for these things?

 

"...potentially leading to over-tightening or under-tightening." LOL AI

Please post something from a manufacturer, that explains why you should never use a torque wrench to tighten the canister, drain bolt etc...

Or explain why every manufacturer lists a torque value for these.

Or quantify what the torque difference is between a lubed bolt and one that is not.

 

I think it’s just over thinking if you’re using a torque wrench to tighten the plastic canister. Just snug it up, it doesn’t have to be very tight. Some think they will have leaks unless it’s tight and the tighter the better. It doesn’t seal better by being tighter. The sealing is done by the outside O ring and it doesn’t seal any differently by being tighter. Use a 3/8 ratchet and just snug it up.

 

I actually don't use a torque wrench to change my oil, but there is no harm in doing so, especialy if you are inexperienced. How do you describe or teach someone what "snug" means? And what does "tighter" mean? Tighter than what? Obviously it does seal better by being tighter. Tighter than not tight enough. It is simply easier to use a number on a torque wrench, particularly if you are not present to demonstrate what snug means. For someone who does not know what they are doing, IMO it would be much easier for them to overtighten something by using a standard ratchet than by using a properly set torque wrench. That is why I think manufacturers set torque spec for these(or anything else). So people don't just try and guess and then overtighten them.

People are free to tighten their drain bolt or canister or lug nuts or whatever, without a torque wrench. But to ridicule people for using one is sophomoric.