Accelerator pedal not working

After several months without a battery, I installed a brand new one. When the truck is idling, stepping on the accelerator pedal makes the rpms go up a little bit. When it is in gear, it moves along quite well, but stepping on the accelerator has no effect at all. Also not working are: blinkers, ac, turn signals, windows, and mirror adjustment. Working are: headlights (high and low), door locks, overhead lights, and the light on the defroster button on the dash, when you press it. It is a v-8, and an extended cab, I think. (4 doors and a back seat) Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Ms. Prius decided to die simultaneously and I am pretty short on cash right now, so I need to get it fixed as cheap as possible. I have test lights, a meter, lots of fuses, relays, and extra wire, and electronics training from the Navy. Do you think it would be possible to hook a piece of fishing line to the air intake manifold and actuate it that way as an emergency fix? I don't drive much, but I really need to get 5.5 mi to the supermarket every 2 or 3 days for tomatoes and green stuff. Thank you in advance for your help.

Sorry, 2005. The bed is just a hair above 6' 2" measured at the top of the tailgate.

 

Good morning Mark. First, let’s start by identifying the year of your truck. You mentioned V8 and 4 door extended cab. I’m going to guess that you mean access cab, but that’s not always the case. The earliest Tundras (00-02 for sure) have cable driven throttle bodies while the later model first gens have an electronic throttlebody. The fact that you can get the engine RPMs to raise slightly while at idle but not in drive leads me to believe that you have a later model first gen (if indeed it is a first gen as you have yet to supply your year) with an electronic throttle body. With the other electrical gremlins going on, we would need a lot more information in order to assist you.
Start by reading through the mega thread. The first two posts are of vital importance. Pay close attention to the rodent damage points and check the point on throttle body relearn after battery disconnect.
After you have read through it and done some research, come back with more information and then we will be happy to assist. Cheers.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Yeah, as @The Black Mamba said, the year and meaning of "extended cab" which some refer to as Access Cab and some mean Double Cab.
The "defroster button on the dash" can denote a DC(04-06) but we'll see.

In any case, before you installed a battery, were any of these non-working items working ?
When replacing the battery, do you recall any accidental install issues ?
The items not working, begs the question did you accidently blow some portion of your fusible link block....time will tell.

 

These trucks usually don't have a ton of other electrical issues. Hidden corrosion inside the battery/alt cables happens. Sometimes, a couple thousand miles after timing belt changes, people will have startup issues because the crank position sensor wasn't properly tucked away and gets rubbed by a belt (pic), correct routing info here. There's also a similar problem with camshaft position sensor under the cam cover, where the belt will rub through (pics). There's the rodent issues mentioned earlier. Occasionally, water trails down harnesses into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics, pics), or the in-dash fusebox (pics & pics & pics) it happens a LOT. Many drain/vampire issues trace back to aftermarket add-ons whether the owner knows they exist or not - alarms as mentioned earlier, brake controllers, poorly installed trailer receptacles, those are some big ones.

That's taken from the thread @The Black Mamba linked you up with. Note the bold text and 3 pics links. Given this is a multi-circuit failure as you're indicating, it sounds like maybe you're our next victim to "water in the fusebox".

Not knowing what year your truck is, or the cab type, is crippling for us. We can't help you if you can't help us. "Miss Pink Cadillac" doesn't help us help you. Year, cab type, engine type, transmission (manual/auto), and 2WD vs. 4WD helps enormously.

 

Everything was working before.

 

Ok, I got a lot more info from the dealer receipt, which I found in the glove compartment. vin 5tbet34155s481393
2005 Toyota Tundra 2WD (8 Cylinders T 4.7L FI DOHC 285 CID) (from auto zone website) 2005 Toyota Tundra Double Cab (from dealer receipt). I bought a couple of bicycles which are supposed to arrive tomorrow (Monday) and cancelled my car insurance, which saved me over a third of the cost of the bikes ) Therefore I am currently CHEAP mode, with little or no concern for good or fast. I really appreciate your help, and I'm sorry I didn't get you more/better info at first. It's been a rough few days ;-))

I also found some reset procedures on you tube and tried several of them, before my first post.

 

Hi, did anyone find anything?

 

We were waiting for you to confirm if you found evidence of the classic 'water leaking into the dash' that usually causes your issue.

In your case, you'd want to be looking for the drive-by-wire connector. Effectively same as this guy who posted around the same time as you: https://www.tundras.com/threads/front-wheel-problem.158044/#post-3915888

And if you find corrosion there, I'd be worried about corrosion in the fusebox too, since it's fairly common. Pics of that: pics & pics & pics. Especially if you or a previous owner can't be bothered to fix a cracked windshield, or the windshield was poorly replaced, or if the windshield's side trim holes or surround are rotten, or your A-piller rubber door seals are shot.

I feel like a ton of info and resources is already showing up above. If there's something that doesn't make sense about anything posted above, let us know.

 

Ok, I found the fuse box, took out a bunch of the fuses, and saw no corrosion on either the fuses or fuse box. I also saw no evidence of leakage around the windshield, dash, or elsewhere.

 

As in the ones in engine bay and the cabin fuse box by drivers knee ?

Is this still true or have you found other circuits ?

As for AC , does that include compressor and blower motor ?

Do blinkers and turn signals mean same thing or what do you mean by blinkers ?
Also does that include hazards ?

5A TURN....turn signals
7.5A RAD NO. 2....mirror adjustment
25A PWR NO. 1....windows
30A PWR NO. 5....back window
15A HAZ....hazards

Those together do not point back to just one main fusible link under hood but they all do join up at the cabin fuse box, in particular the integration relay attached to backside of fuse box mentioned earlier.

 

Pulling out the fuses ain't gonna tell you much with the in-dash fusebox. The traces of damage typically tend to be on the back side.

But even still, if you didn't locate the 4-wire connector you'll see in that other thread, then you're not digging deep enough to solve your problem, and there's not much of anything anyone here is going to be able to tell you better.

I'm pretty sure the problem is going to be water-induced corrosion. If I have a dollar for every time someone didn't believe me, it'd be Free Lunch Friday tomorrow.

 

So would a good next step be to remove the fuse box in the dash and check the relay on the back? The hazards are not working. I haven't been able to find the 4-wire connector thread. Could you give me a link to it? AC is completely dead. No fan or lights. I don't know how to check the compressor.

 

See the link I posted above dude: https://www.tundras.com/posts/3915888

 

Ok, at this point I have thoroughly inspected the windshield, dash, and under the dash for any sign of water or corrosion and have found none. Since I live in the desert and it almost never rains or snows here, that further significantly reduces the chances that this is the problem. I know that more things are going to start breaking when I start taking things apart, so I think It is best to do some more testing beforehand. Since I have testing equipment and much electronics knowledge from the Navy, I would really appreciate links to wiring diagrams, troubleshooting procedures, reset procedures, and similar stuff that may be out there. I have seen apps here and there which purport to make an android phone perform the functions of an o silly scope (oscilloscope). Does anyone have any experience with these, or know of one or more (preferably free) that work?

 

Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

The thread @The Black Mamba linked to you in the very first reply above, in the first few sentences of the first reply of the thread, you'll find links to literally nearly every piece of manual and reference the average at-home DIY'er could want to work on these trucks. Highly recommend visiting in there.