Towing Mini Dump Trailer with 2006 Tundra

Good evening! I have a 2006 Tundra (4.7 V8 4x4 access cab) and I’m now towing a small 7k 5x10 dump trailer.

While I do not intend on hauling more than 5k total ever, including trailer, I do want some guidance on how I can tow this trailer without concern. It will be hauled almost daily, so I want to do what is best and safest for the truck.

I’m most interested in what I need our shop guy to add, such as extra transmission cooler, more robust brakes, better suspension, etc.

I would like to add the factory tow package additions, assuming I don’t have them already. How could I determine if I have those?

Thanks so much!
Richard

 

Are you using a WDH? Does the trailer have brakes?

 

Yes it has brakes. It’s a brand new Rawmaxx trailer. I still need to adjust the shoes and synchronize the brake system. I don’t believe it has a WDH.

 

This is something you would purchase to make towing heavier loads safer and to take some of the stress off of the truck's suspension. Here's a picture of a Curt weight distribution hitch with sway control as an example.

 

I worked for a guy who ran a small artificial turf company.
He pulled a tandem axle dump trailer with a 2005 DC 2WD which was bone stock.
The trailer was equipped with brakes, and he had an in-cab brake controller where he could increase/ decrease the amount of braking the trailer would do.
He frequently loaded that trailer with a LOT of dirt, sand, gravel, etc. , way beyond the trucks rated towing I'm sure.
He did not have load distributing hitch.
He never had any issues, other than pulling a heavy load up a steep hill, but even then the truck handled it . . . it just struggled a bit power-wise.
He sold the truck with 260+K miles trouble free.

While the truck did handle what he threw at it . . I'm sure it taxed it.
He did drive it mellow and was good on maintenance , but he was def. using it beyond it's rating.
Also more importantly, he didn't tow the heavy loads much on the freeway, and if he did, it wasn't for any long distances. Probably wasn't the safest thing to do.
FWIW , He ended up getting a new F250 diesel and an even larger dump trailer, but now says he wishes that he never did.

 

Are you just hauling around town or doing a lot of highway driving? I'd try it without a WDH and if it tows nicely I probably wouldn't bother with it. They're nice to have but not always absolutely necessary.

 

Thanks for the replies! This will not be driven on the highway at all. Speeds will reach 55 max.

I am concerned about the brakes, and want to be able to co trip them in the cab. I’m assuming this is something I can have installed?

More on the brakes, I’m supposed to synchronize the brakes with the truck, but have yet to be told exactly how. I’m concerned the trailer brakes are not working properly, or at all without proper wiring. I have not towed anything heavy yet, but the brakes have not been an issue as far as I can tell.

I’m gathering that I do not need anything boosting the cooling systems for transmission etc. Is that correct? And what exactly comes with the tow package version of this truck, and can I get that?

thanks for all the help!

 

Are the brakes on the trailer hydraulic surge? Or electric?

 

The brakes are likely electric.

 

Just found this in the manual too…

 

Most trucks that don't come with the trailer brake have a wiring harness that is "plug n play", usually its off to the right of the steering column under or a bit behind the dash. I added one to another truck I have and it had the harness ready to go. Maybe ask on the forum if anyone has added a trailer brake and if its plug n play on your year Tundra.

 

What does the trailer weigh?

you want your shop guy to swap in 4.56 gears and a locker. Might as well throw in the 14w brakes & a dual diaphragm brake booster for good measure.

this one is 3k lbs empty.

as long as you stay below 6k lbs, you’ll be fine.

 

Trailer weight - 2500lbs

Thank you for those recommendations.

 

Yes. I have the shorter sides on my 5x10 making it a little lighter.

 

I’ve built some basterd pack leaf springs, but for 5k lbs, load the bed with 500-600lbs (behind the axle) & see if you’re gonna nead a heavy duty leaf pack or airbags, or one of those RAS coil hooks. I know my truck sits close to the bumpstops before 1000lbs.

 

So on my list I have possibly:

• Bastard Pack Rear Springs
• In-Cab Brake Controller Wire Harness
• 4.56 Gears and a Locker
• 14W Brakes
• Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster

What should I expect to pay for this at my expensive but really good shop? 3k? 5k?

 

And because I assume you guys know these things…What is the best towing Tundra year(s)? What would be the best year Tundra (5-10 years old) I could buy for towability? I do prefer to get an 8ft bed if possible.

I will keep my 1st Gen no matter what for our business, but I will be upgrading in a season or two for more towability (10k would be plenty)

 

oh, sorry. I thought you were going to make your employer pay for it. Nah, spend a grand to have the diffs done, but everything else is doable without expierience. I dont remember the full code for the big brakes ?14wa? But they need to be milled, and i dont know who you buy that from, but the rest is just part of having a 20 year old truck. Its time to dig into it.

also, always turn OD off when towing. These transmissions arent allisons.

 

Whoa there. You're overthinking this, IMO. All you need is possibly some overload springs on the rear, and a good brake controller. The truck should be wired for it assuming you have a tow package. Does it have a receiver hitch? Is there a 7 pin plug to the left of it? You could re-gear it, but if you're just rolling around town just don't tow in overdrive. You keep talking about "synchronizing" brakes. This is what a brake controller does. You should have plug and play ability if you have the tow package. Show us some pictures of the rear of the truck, hitch height, and also with the hood open, radiator height. If equipped with the tow package there will already be a small transmission cooler in front of the radiator.

 

Thank you for the info. Here are some pics:

 

The hitch height is a 4” drop. I haven’t put a level on it but it appears level without a load with dump trailer.

 

If you’re going to be pulling the trailer often, in traffic your trans is going to appreciate gears. My biggest qualm when pulling my 2500lb lowboy (with up to 3k lbs of honda accord on it) is the gearing. 1st is a bit too tall for coasting in stop & go, and 3rd (i’ve got the 4 spd) isnt tall enough for the highway. But shorter gears would be better at 8mph and with sufficiently shorter gears i could click into OD a little more comforably at higher speeds, as long as im not climbing a hill.

aside from the stopping & going you might want some towing mirrors. Swapping some dodge mirrors on would be cool, but the aux mirrors that you strap to your existing mirrors are fine as wine. Be a good habit to strap a 5 gallon fuel can to the trailer, because below half a tank, the fuel gauge sneaks up quick & its better to be prepared than cook the fuel pump. Dual spares, If the trailer hub doesnt match the truck, 2 trailer spares.