Which set of front rotors should I go with here?

2002 sequoia RWD with the upgraded front calipers (13WL).

Truck is starting to shake pretty violently when going down steep hills at fast speed. Thinking it's time for new rotors. I'm pretty new to wrenching so I need a little guidance on which brand/set to buy. I picked out these 3 because they are in my budget of $100.

Please don't flame me for this, but I pulled some very slightly worn break pads off a few sequoias at the junk yard, could I just buy the rotors and throw those on? Pull-a-part was running a special for bread pads and they were too cheap to pass up. There's still plenty of tread left on them, so I personally don't see what's stopping me from just buying rotors and using these pads?

If there is a different brand of rotors you think I should go with I'm all ears. I just choose those brands because of a quick Google search said they were solid brand. But I still need help narrowing it down to just one set
Open to any and all advice/tips/tricks for changing out front breaks.

Is there a "break in period" for new rotors on our trucks? And how do you perform it if so?

 

I assume this only happens when you apply brakes? If not, you have another problem.

There is the option of having your rotors resurfaced. That's cheapest.

This might be ok. But seriously, if you get your rotors resurfaced, spend the money you saved on new pads.

There is not necessarily a "break in period", but new brakes need to be bedded in. This is why it is recommended to use all new parts so that there are no inconsistencies in rotors and pads "mating" together. Do a youTube search on bedding in brakes.

 

I feel like anytime I've ever asked a shop to resurface my rotors they always tell me "it's past that point darlin', your gonna need a new set of rotors all the way around"

I guess I could run my truck by a shop and ask, but when I rub my finger on the rotors you can feel the bumps. That means it's past the point of a resurface right?

 

Not necessarily. There's a minimum thickness expressed in millimeters stamped onto the rotor. That's what you need to go by.

And that was probably true. Make them show you.

 

Neither. Buy Aisin rotors. Look up your part number here: https://aisinaftermarket.com/online

Aisin is the OEM. Their parts aren't much more than aftermarket.

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Actually FFS, Aisin is fucking cheaper bro. By like $30 for crying out loud. Why you looking at Centric and Raybestos garbage for more $$? You must hate your wallet.

Front: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12880089&cc=0&pt=1896&jsn=455

Rear: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12880209&cc=0&pt=1896&jsn=463

 

With all due respect, you’re wrong. The Aisin are ~$60 for 1 single rotor. The screenshot of the stuff I had picked out are ~$90 for 2 rotors, plus brake pads.

Maybe it is worth paying the extra $30 for the rotors, and I can slap on my brake pads (that are practically brand spanking new) that I got off a sequoia from the junkyard? Realistically that could work right? (Please dont give me a hard time about it, when you’re a broke college student you do what you got to do sometimes)

 

Ah, yeah, that's a small detail. Well shit. I'd still take the wallet hit. As long as the JY calipers are the same designation (WE or WL), and the pads are worn evenly and aren't covered in grease, I guess send it? But honestly, if the rotors are from the JY also, and are pimply, just use them and the shitty JY pads, let the shitty JT pads smooth out the rotor, then get the Aisin pad kit and install with the rotors.

 

Damn. I just can't get behind putting junkyard rotors and pads on. Such safety critical components. You don't know what they've been through, and just because they look good doesn't mean it's so. A bumper or door handle, yeah, all day long. I wouldn't allow my college age nieces to do this.

 

The only thing I have from the junkyard are the pads, the calipers that came with my truck are the 13WL (so happy the previous owner did this upgrade) and I am not throwing on junkyard rotors, I want to buy new ones. So the only thing would be the brake pads that are from the junkyard. These brake pads look practically brand new, very thick. But I mixed them up in my bag, i don’t remember which ones were on the inside or outside , would that even matter? Im surprised these brake pads dont have the noise squealer on them.

Im pretty unhappy with the rotors I had a chain shop throw on, after only 2 years and they are already warped. How could that be? Must of been some cheapo rotors? I don’t do any heavy braking, maybe I need to “reset” my rear brakes again?? (whatever that means, I read it on the mega thread lol)

and yes thanks so much for your advice, i dont have my father any longer, lost him to cancer at 14 it’s just been me and mom with no man in the house to ask these type of questions to. Im glad I have my dads tools, it always feels like he’s right there with me when I work on my truck, and thats part of the reason I do it. But I see what your saying about not wanting your college aged niece to drive on junkyard parts, im very careful about what I pull from the junkyard, and inspect it closely (would never pull stuff like rotors, lower ball joints etc.)

 

O'Reilly stores will usually resurface rotors you bring them. I'd ask your local store if you are trying to be very budget minded. The black painted Raybestos set doesn't seem too bad if you are buying new though. These partially coated Duragos are on closeout for about $25 a rotor which is a pretty good deal (LINK). If I was going for budget minded I'd definitely buy those. Hell that's the same rotors I just put on my camry a little while back (different size rotor but same brand and coating etc) for that exact reason, they were on closeout and I don't care too much about the car and the price was right.

I agree with @shifty` that there are definitely better options but if you really need to be super budget friendly these are the options I'd look into.

The shaking only happens when you are stepping on the brake pedal right?

 

Yes, it matters. Two of the pads should have a screamer (little metal tab) on them. One screamer pad per side, and there's a very specific orientation where that screamer needs to go.

Can you post a picture of the pads? I'm happy to help with orientation.

do you have the necessary tension springs, the retainer rods and their clips?

 

You could have a caliper that's sticking and doesn't fully release after you take your foot off the pedal. Try driving around the block slowly, trying not to use your brakes except to stop once. Get out and touch the rotors, but be careful they could be very hot. Even better if you have access to an IR or laser thermometer. If you find that you have one or both rotors that are overly hot, you have a pad or pads that are dragging when they should not be. It's possible that you can lube the sliders and pins and fix the problem. I had the same thing happen on my 4Runner and ended up replacing the offending caliper. They can also be rebuilt.

 

Centric rotors Bosch pads

 

I do have the tension springs, rods & clips.
Here’s a picture of the break pads. I put them in the EXACT position that I “think” they go. (The lube is the middle of the engine,). Please correct me if im wrong. (Pictures at the bottom)

Yes the shaking is only happening when I press the brake pedal. (Usually under high stress, like a steep hill or getting off the interstate)

I felt my rotors again this morning, they actually feel pretty smooth, just the very very outside portion is slightly raised. Im assuming that means I could get them resurfaced (at o’reilys, most, not all, but most shops look at me like prey because I’m a younger girl who looks like I don’t even know how to fill my own washer fluid, let alone get my hands dirty fixing stuff… the guys at my job were shocked i was able to change my O2 sensors all by myself LOL . Hey knowledge is power,…. Sorry for the rant)

I drove to the grocery store around the corner from my place, roughly 3-4 miles away, and only used my brakes once. Got out and touched my rotors and it didn’t feel that hot at all, I was able to feel them without burning myself. So would that mean they aren’t sticking? Is there any other reason to go through a pair of rotors so quickly? (I don’t know the brand but this was at Mavis, a pretty big chain shop)

 

And you'd be wrong

Check this post, but look at replies 3 and 5: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rotors.150589/#post-3765748

Screamer needs to be on the outboard pad, and facing upward. If you spin each pair 180° as they sit, it should be alright.

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Thanks shifty’ you are always so helpful. A real super hero in my eyes lol ‍. on a serious note, if i didn’t have you and everybody else who has been kind enough to help a beginner like me, I would be in either 1 of 2 situations, 1) my car being broke down in my driveway or 2) my bank account in the negative.. and yeah neither one of those things won’t do anything but make it harder for me to graduate from school

 

If $100 is your budget, just get the cheapest shit you can find because it’s all about the same at that point.

Start saving up to re-do the job in the 6-12 months. Or, just ride out what you got until you can afford decent parts.

Trying to save $$ instead of doing the job right the first time usually costs more in the long run. I’ve seen people spend a lot of $$ over the years trying to learn that lesson the hard way. Many never get it.


another note… replacing brakes is not a job you want to learn by making mistakes. I strongly recommend finding an experienced friend to assist

also, to give credit where it is due, I commend you for sourcing from Rock Auto and not Amazon.

Historically, I would have recommended NAPA for aftermarket parts (I worked for NAPA many moons ago, and knew their supply chain well) I still give NAPA the nod for aftermarket parts with O’reilly after that, but aftermarket parts are such a crap shoot now, I use OEM parts 95+% of the time.

 

Yes. This is for sure the most economical way.

They could just be poor quality. If I were you, I would try to resurface once. If they warp again it's time to invest in some OEM. This would give you some time to evaluate and save up some money. Those pads you pulled look pretty decent. Make sure to hit them with some brake cleaner so there's no grease on the pads.

 

I agree, im going to start saving for OEM and put them on once these rotors kick the bucket.
I did change my rear brakes and rotors by myself several months ago, is there anything different about doing it on the front i should know about?

 

Fronts will be similar, for the most part. Brakes scan be a sensitive topic because done incorrectly it can put the safety of you and others on the road at risk. Also, there’s a lot more to it than changing pads and rotors. For example, have you inspected the rubber hoses going to your calipers? They have a 10-year service life, but are typically “good” for much longer… but can you spot when they need to be replaced? Diagnose sticking calipers? Properly bleed the system?

Don’t take it the wrong way; I’m sure you are more than capable of doing the job, it’s good to have an experienced hand to guide you. I often see people “rush to failure”, become overconfident in their abilities, and jump into mechanical problems that aren’t really problems at all.

 

My issue isn’t overconfidence, it’s under confidence. That’s why I ask so many questions on this forum & reddit. Watch several YouTube videos on the topic (always the chrisfix video for the repair), I read my Haynes manual plus the FSM linked on the mega thread, and yet I always feel like I’m missing something. Ive definitely learned that repairs are best when I take things slow, “slow is smooth and smooth is fast” Ive definitely created a problem in the past that wouldn’t of been their if I would of just slowed down, took a deep breath, and step back to look at things. I do wish I had a more experienced set of hands to help guide me, or a “wrench buddy”. (My neighbor sometimes can help but he’s a bit of a hack mechanic who’s catch phrase is probably something like “good enough”, when I saw how he used jumper cables it made my stomach turn, removing the red before the black, im getting off topic sorry)

thanks for the tip about checking the hoses, and I should be able to tell if a caliper is stuck when I retract them right?

I still don’t feel confident doing the one man brake bleeder/flush, though I did it when I replaced a rear caliper, and haven’t had any issues since I did 6 months ago. I still don’t know if I should be using synthetic or silicone brake lube, And I don’t exactly understand the places to put the lube on the slide pins.
Another big one right now, is me trying to figure the hell how to “reset my rear brakes” or whatever it’s called, that I saw on the mega thread, that went completely over my head.

 

IIRC Toyota 43512-0C010 rotors are like $60/ea and pads are like $35/set during the 25% off sales with free shipping over $75.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2107#post-3669321

 

Would rather pay $30 more to get rotors that spec well and last like 150k with rears adjusted well.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-front-brakes-and-rotors.135966/#post-3452524

 

Big point on brakes, the grease goes nowhere near the pad friction surface. The pins get a little, the back of the pads get a dab. Use brake caliper grease or anti seeze. My concern with junkyard consumables is what you can’t know, that said I reuse good pads often on my vehicles. You’re doing awesome, refreshing to see someone trying. Use a bungee or copper wire to hold the caliper out the way. Rotors/pads are pretty easy, do one side at a time or take good pictures. Don’t forget Jack stands and chocks for the back tire. You got this. Sand paper also good for the used pads, takes off the surface slick. Best to ya

 

Underconfidence indicates respect for the unknown. That's good. Know your enemy: you are dealing with a 23-year old vehicle with 200k+ miles with unknown service history judging by your previous threads.

Assess the situation:

-What is your current pad thickness and rotor condition? You can like with shaky brakes. You can't live long without friction material. 3mm (~1/8") is end of life for pads, although, I believe Toyota specs 2mm. Your pads may not be worn evenly, use the thinnest point of friction material as your guide. Slightly uneven is reasonably normal, but could indicate a sticking brake piston. Assuming original calipers, I would be more surprised if you did not have sticking caliper pistons to some degree.

-Closely inspect the rubber brake hoses for any dry-rot (fine cracks) or damage. Assuming they are original, they should be replaced if you were doing a proper brake service. Absolutely replace them if you need to replace a caliper.

-Brake rotors - I would assume they have been replaced at some point, but hey may be original. The rotor surface should look consistent. Minor ridges and grooves concentric with wheel rotation is normal, heavy grooves and scoring is not. Streaking or discoloration could indicated overheating or contamination. The main reason why rotors are replaced instead of turning is time and cost. Rotors are so (relatively) cheap nowadays it's not worth the shop time to turn them and risk a warranty claim. For shops, it is a factor of time and money. Even as a shade tree mechanic, it's rarely worth the hassle of reusing them unless in really good shape and on a very tight budget. The last time I had rotors turned (2015?) it was $20 per rotor to turn them vs $50 per for new rotors. O'Reilly's fucked up the cut (chattered surface finish) and I lived with noisy brakes for a couple years.

-Brake fluid should be changes every 3 years regardless of mileage. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture. Moisture lowers its boiling point, brake fluid absorbs heat during braking, when fluid boils you lose braking ability (pedal to floor). Also, old fluid contributes to expensive component failures, namely ABS modules. Replace your fluid.

-Most manufacturers have moved to silicon-based brake grease. As long as you use "brake grease", the specific product is less important than proper placement. In this case, less is. more. No brake grease may result in some extra noise or uneven pad wear; too much or incorrect placement results in pad contamination with reduced stopping ability.

-If you have 4-piston calipers (I assume so) retracting the pistons can be tricky without correct tools or technique (this is a notable difference from the rear calipers) You must push all 4 pistons back into their bores together, or risk popping one or two out, likely with hurt fingers.

Just trying to share some key points and considerations. This is not intended to be a how-to post

 

What grit sandpaper do I use for my junkyard brake pads? And should it be a circular motion or go with the flow of what the tire would do?

 

I would use linear motion, back/forth. 120-200 should do the job just fine.

 

Can somebody possible help me decipher this bill from the mechanic that did my brake job 2 years ago. I know I got knew rotors and brakes from them but the part about the calipers isn’t making any since to me. Did they replace any (one maybe both?)of the calipers? Or is that just stating labor for draining the brake fluid & cleaning the caliper up. Also, it states something about a lifetime warranty for my brake pads, so does that mean I can take them off and exchange them for new ones since I went through them so dang quick and it made my rotors warp?

I swear they purposely make these shop bills hard to read so the customers stay in the shadows.

 

Look like the parts paid for are a caliper, 2 rotors and a set of brake pads. Pad warranties might include replacement if wear out or replacement if defective. Depends.