General Supercharger Thread

I got my original tune with the JBA headers already installed. It does lean the AFR out a bit, more airflow, so it would be a good idea to make sure you're not running too lean.

 

Kinda figured that would be the case.
I'm one of those who likes to get everything done in one fell swoop.
As in install the headers as well as any other engine mods before taking it in for the retune.
Being retired I have all the free time I'll need.
Told the Wife this is likely to be my last truck before I Croak and She said to go all out!!!

 

@Tundra Texan Like @armyoffoo stated a re-tune is advised they will lean out your afr's. If they are ARH with the single air tube its not bad. I've pulled my jba's a few times and got it down but the passenger side can be a pain.

 

Depending on who does your tune, it could be as simple as having them update your file, flashing the update, logging a run to verify, doesn't necessarily require a dyno tune session.

 

So small update on my Magnuson2560 issue.
Didn't get a chance to stop at the local shop but I did send a video of the issue to the guy that did my install.
High possibility the bearings failed according to him so went ahead and filled out the warranty request form.

I did replace my idler pulley and belt tensioner to eliminate them as possible issues, but noise is still there so going to agree on the bearing failure. I did check the pulley on the supercharger while the tensioner was off, spun it by hand, pretty sure I heard a slight noise and felt a little play, but idk.
Crazy to me it's having an issue only a year in, barely 10k miles. I don't even beat on the thing but I'll just see what Magnuson has to say once they reply.

 

It’ll run, but roughly without a retune. The distance increase for the o2 sensors is substantial and impacts the feedback for fuel trims, among other changes.

I installed ARH long tubes in my driveway with a friend and took all day. We were able to do it without removing or cutting anything (other than removing the exhaust). It’s very tight and in my case a suspension lift plus larger tires was likely needed for clearance to maneuver (or a real lift ideally). Truck drove okay afterwards but getting a real tune helped it significantly. Butt dyno says sizable improvement for LTHs. The annoyance is the resulting (potential) idle issues and catalytic converter check engine lights.

 

Had a similar issue with my TRD S/C on my 98 Tacoma.
It was in the tensioner pulley bearing as well.
I made my own pulley out of 316 Stainless and made the diameter for the bearing the same as German speed bearings so I could push em out and press in a new one if needed.
Never had to replace the bearing again.
The funny part....The bearings were intended for use in Skateboard wheels.

 

Thanks for the info!!
Really appreciate it!!

 

I have about 8500 miles on mine. I will likely see it get to 10k some time this summer. If I start hearing shit on mine, I'll be sure to report it here.

 

Installed the ECB-1 on the left side. Upper left side is bank 2 (driver side) afr, upper right peak boost. I did not install it's fuel sensor as I have that on the ECF-1 on the right side so can't have any of the fuel related info so both bottom gauges are real time boost

The ECF-1 on the right gauge has bank 1 afr, ethenol % fuel pressure and temp

https://vimeo.com/1079198159?share=copy

 

Then you may have slipped timing

 

A little test fit. Still lots to do for this project, but feeling good about the space I’ll have to monkey around with.

 

funny thing he did mention magnuson had issues with the tacoma s/c bearings in the past but seems I'm not the only one hes heard from having the bearings fail on the magnusons.

for sure, let us know. I'm curious to hear from others with the maggy2650. give a listen to the engine bay with the hood open, at idle with my hood closed I really don't hear anything.


Also forgot to mention went ahead and ordered a new serpentine belt. Gave it a look over since I was already there when I changed the idler pulley and the belt tensioner, didn't look too good honestly plus found a small crack.

 

Yeah, I've also come across that outcome reading up on this...really hoping it's not the case, but I guess I will find out when I pull the rotors.

 

If it was timing how would it run fine without the SC? Not to mention, isn't noise the only symptom? So even with the SC it is otherwise running properly no?

 

The rotors are timed together via gears in the case, sometimes they can skip and cause the rotors to hit either each other or the case walls.

 

OIC, I thought we were talking about engine timing.

 

If you can get that swap/tune sorted, I'll send the truck to you.

It's not bad, but tedious, I didn't have a lift at the time so took me about 2 days, I don't know how some people able to do it in 6hours as I spent 6 hours just looking for dropped nuts, the driver's side is incredibly tight, I have normal sized hands for a 6+ft man, I couldn't put my hands between the steering link to tighten couple of the bolts so I had to get my kids to do it, also stock manifolds are held on via studs, so if the headers you are using requires re-use stud/nuts it can present another headache if you have stripped studs etc.

FYI, I have Stainlessworks long tubes.

 

I'm happy to share any information that helps, but I don't have space/facilities to work on additional vehicles...I'll be doing this in my driveway.

 

Opened the driver side valve cover, looks the same.

 

Well look what arrived today! Early Birthday present for myself! Got a whole tank of regular fuel to burn off before install! Im excited!

 

SCOL says they don't have the snout bearing details, rotor bearings require a full rebuild, and will rebuild it for me if I ship it to them. Harrop said they would inspect and rebuild, so I'm shipping it to Harrop's Ohio location.

 

Are you installing it yourself?

 

My buddy is a Toyota master tech, he is doing it for me, he has done many of them.

 

SCOL called me and they have the Harrop snout bearings...going to try that before shipping the rotor pack.

 

Does that not void the warranty if not done by a Magnuson approved installer?
While I'm sure your Buddy is perfectly capable of installing it I'd hate to see you lose your warranty.

 

Mines on the way.
Ordered it right at six weeks ago so any day now!!!
Can't Wait!!!

 

Finally resolved my warm start issue. VF tuner released some updates over the past couple months so I took it in for a re-tune. Mike at Figs said there was only 1 cranking pulse table before and now there were 6!

So after 1.5 years of hating having to warm start my LX it finally starts well. Now to do something with this 77.5mm pulley thats been sitting on the shelf for that year and a half.

I have ~40,000mi on my Harrop 2650 and ~30,000 on the ikh22 plugs. At what mileage should I be looking to replace plugs 30k, 60k?

 

After 100k miles, swap em every 60k-ish...at least that's what ive heard and read

 

Heard back from Magnuson today regarding my warranty request. Sent them two separate videos and they don't believe its a bearing issue. They think it might be an air leak and want me to do a smoke test. So I'll be doing that as quick as I can.
Going to call the local performance shop tomorrow to see if they can do it and how much. If they don't for whatever reason or price is a bit much, I'll just buy a kit off Amazon to do it myself...