2007-2020 Transfer Case Actuator

I found it from MIK Electronic product #MPU12491MMB0 trying to get a reply from them at this time. I'm awaiting a reply from them. Problem is they're located in Japan. Probably Toyotas supplier or owned by Toyota.

 

I started getting the 4 Hi light blinking on my 1794 2020 CM. I tried to disconnect the battery for an hour with no luck. I also confirmed that when I engage 4 HI, the drive shaft from the TC to the front axle engages. When it's not in 4 HI, I can manually turn the drive shaft. I also hear the actuator on the TC engaging. I do not hear any engagement on the front actuator. I could not find the actuator like the one pictured in the first video but not sure they may have changed anything for the 2020 models. Any insight before I get into maybe replacing the front actuator.

Thanks

 

I realize this isn’t a NEW post and has some years of info. The problem I’m having, and I haven’t had time to check anything yet, on my 2007, once I engage 4L with the switch, it will go right into gear. But once I try to go back into 2H it does one of two things, either goes right into 2H or hesitates sometimes upto a minute. Then seems to finally slip in. BUT the kicker, almost every time once I stop, turn off engine, say at grocery store, once I restart engine, it’s flashing both 4H and 4L lights on dash and truck won’t go, like it’s in neutral. I’m just stuck there, can go forward or backward. I’ve had to turn off engine, turn the switch back and forth from 2H, 4H & 4L and so far it will eventually engage back into 2H where I leave the switch. A little embarrassing stuck in a shopping center parking lot half out of the parking space. Once it goes through this cycle of restarting engine, turning switch back and forth on no particular order, once it gets back into 2H, it seems to stay there. It’s only that very first time after shifting into 4L that I have to go through this process. Not sure what to try as some say vent can’t be seen on the 2nd gen’s or taken off without dropping the case. Maybe time to go see the stealer.

 

After climbing under the truck this morning I found the vacuum tube split like many others have mentioned. I had enough slack so I cut off about 3/4” of the hose and smeared a thin layer of removable thread lock on the outside of the nipple making sure not to get any inside the nipple. Then shoved the hose back on, it was nice and tight. I’ll be taking to the store later and give an update.

My Ford Excursion had the same issue but all I had to do was lock (rotate) the front hubs so I never could find the leak. And since I had a work-around, I never had it fixed. The Tundra is different and won’t even move if it can get into one gear or the other. It just stays in neutral so I had to fix it and hopefully losing vacuum is all it was.

 

Been a while since i've been on here.
After about 7 or so years my son and I decided to go wheel the truck. Had a great time, was mostly in 4hi and a bit in 4lo with the the rear locker on. The group came down and I put it in 2wd as we hit the asphalt to go to the next spot.
Had lunch and we hit the next trail.
I go to put it in 4hi and nothing. Meaning no light showing 4wd on the dash and no clicking or engaging from the actuator.
checked the fuse, its good, still replaced it.
pulled the battery and still nothing.
Had to end our trip early.
Any thoughts? We tested and it doesnt engage or activate so the light bulb in the dash isnt burned out.
Went under the truck and checked the actuator, visually all the wires are good and connectors are plugged in. ran a code scanner and nothing related to the 4wd system..

Once the sun comes up i'll check voltage at the back of the switch, last night i ordered a replacement switch..

 

Ok, first, i'm surprised this hasnt gotten more attention.
Can you update us on this.. were you successful? do you have a write up on this.

this is bad ass!

 

Did you check the vacuum hose on top of the actuator? Once I cut my hose hose back about 3/4”, past the splint in the hose, mine seems to be working. I don’t use 4L often but I read you should change through all the gears monthly to keep them from getting “stuck” in either position, especially 4L. Supposedly water can get inside and begin to form rust which prevents the actuator from moving freely. Moving it more often keeps the lubricants inside moving around all the plastic gears, or so I’ve read.

 

Ill check. But from all my reading if water got in, I'd have flashing dash lights for the 4hi 4lo. I get no lights at all..

 

you have a rear locker? lucky

 

I’m sorry for the confusion. The hose is only a vent hose, not a vacuum hose. The truck is new to me and it was having issues not getting out of 4L. So I spent some time just repeatedly switching it into 4L, back to 2wd, then 4H. And fixing the split in the hose. I just assumed the hose had something to do with it, but now I’m convinced it just need to get the lubricants moving around. Previous owner may not have used 4L often, causing the gears in the actuator to get gummed up and stuck.

 

How did you manually put the rod in 4hi (and 4lo in your later post)? Should it just be all the way "out"? If so - how should the teeth on the cogs be timed to match?

Overview:

• I started with the same issue as everyone else, 4hi blinking, Stab. Control light, traction light
• Removed the 4hi side, motor was seized. Loosened it up, cleaned it up. Tested it with a battery, still works and moves smoothly now
• Timing: Used the method of plugging it in while still disassembled, letting it cycle, pushing in the rod, and re-mounting it.
  • Should this method also work for 4lo? It didn't when I tried it.
• All the lights turned off! But then the 4hi light came back on after I tried to put it in 4hi.
• Decided to try the 4lo side. Motor was fine, no rust, not stuck, so reassembled and re-timed using a method from one of the videos in the first post in this thread.
• Now the 4hi light is off and the 4lo light is steady blinking. I don't believe the truck is getting in to 4hi (I used to be able to tell a difference in the handling), no light. Just the 4lo light.
• This is where things went awry. I've basically tried taking it apart and putting it back together 10 times by now.
  
• One thing I noticed, the rods didn't move very easily when in neutral.
  • How easy should they be to move? The 4lo was a little sticky but would move with finger pressure alone
  • 4hi was stuck, had to use a screwdriver to get it moving. Lubed both and worked them so they would move, but they weren't exactly gliding in and out.
• Reassembled with the timing method listed in the first post on this thread, aligning the three contact points with the dimples.
  
• No change. Still 4lo light on.

I cut out a bunch of points with lights, getting them reset at Autozone (and then Oreillys cuz on the third time I felt ashamed) and the occasional moment where I could hear angry gear grinding when trying to take it out of neutral.

I'm game to try and re-do this, manually putting it in 4hi or 4lo as another option, just not sure how to do that.

 

Along these same lines with my 2010 Sequioa- all my motors are dandy but I want to properly set my gears. My 4LO Fork is only half way across. My 4HI fork is all the way out. To time my gears I’d like to make sure the selector is in the right position. Does this mean I’m in 2wd? I did a little test with jacking up my back end and I believe it’s only in 2wd. I’m making sure the 4HI for is supposed to be out.

4HI Fork: (UPDATE, this is 4WD engaged)


4LO Fork: (in high range)

 

Ok I’m answering my own question now bc I found this video that explains the fork positions. What I’m showing is 4HI. However, I wasn’t sure if my front axle was connected via the ADD. I was concerned that if I moved the 4HI fork in (to clock at 2wd) and the ADD was still in 4wd mode (connected the front 2 axels) I’d be back in error land. So I jacked up the front wheels and spun them. When I’d spin one, the other would counter rotate. This means ADD was in 4wd mode. Knowing that, I left the 4wd HI fork out and put the inside knob to 4HI. When I did the key to accessory, it clocked both the 4Hi and 4LO actuators correctly. I reassembled and 4HI worked fine. I could switch between 2HI and 4HI and center diff lock all with no issues.

However, when I’d go from 4HI to 4LO, it would try but wouldn’t engage. It allowed me to move the selector back to 4HI and go about my way. My next move is to remove the 4LO actuator, yet again, but this time manually oscillate the fork to and fro to see if it’s just being stubborn. Maybe I just didn’t seat the gear properly.

here’s a screenshot that shows the position of the fork and what it does.

Video (8:00 minute mark)
https://youtu.be/47m7QAPrpsI?si=qF1sKzmDkP8j_sh1