Let's see your first gen - photo thread

Tell us about your setup

 

Damn and I thought I cut a lot off the wheel wells lol.

 

Might be the solo long travel kit and fabricated knuckle. $$$

 

What about them hubs

 

Its Solo midtravel with the lowers and spindles. Kind of longish travel with the spindles pushing out 2" per side. Ext travel Rad Flos F/R with 600lb springs and Icon leaf kit. With the lower arms pushing wheel 1" forward there is zero rub no matter what I do. 3.5 cut out of fenders all the way around. Just needs more power!
The Solo knuckles utilize Dana 44 hubs

 

nubs*

 

Very cool. I've never seen anyone do a spindle lift on a Tundra. Seen a few Tacomas use MaxTrac 4in lift spindles.

You just need some 2in rear wheel spacers now to match the fronts

 

Just got this one done

 

So do the bolt holes miraculously line up or did you just make new ones? How's the length on that at the rear of the skid plate?

 

We had to do some fabrication to get it it to fit. length is good, covers a decent portion. This skid plate came off a 4runner.

 

Love to hear what was required

 

that 4Runner TRD skid looks great!

 

What year 4runner? That's definitely not off a 5th gen

 

Nevermind, it's a 14-21 Tundra skid.

 

That’s what it looked like. What mods are needed to make it fit?

 

Thanks for adding something more to my to do list

 

Still waiting to hear what fab was necessary to make it work

 

All stock minus a few QOL things! Heavily considering spicing it up with a new grille, or TEQ headlights, or maybe one of those steel front bumpers on Ebay by Vijay. Hopefully you guys don't consider that ruining it haha

 

Update your lighting first 100% worth it.

 

Yeah, but skip the TEQ stuff. Looks cheezy and out of place on our trucks.

 

A brand new drill bit and a trip to the hardware store is my guess. Lol

 

Really just want to know if it was a legit mod or something janky with no good alternative. If it’s just hole relocation and it lines up great otherwise, I’d consider it.

 

I'm sure it's nothing that a drill bit, a few bolts and spacers can't fix.

 

whoa nelly. That green pops. Good form

 

Just picked up this ole gal today, 2006 with 300K miles. Was talking with a coworker who said she had and old truck she wanted to sell. Well, I wanted a truck so I said how much. $3,000 she said. I asked her if it even ran. She said "Yep, every thing works but it does have a CEL for an O2 sensor, the new one is on the glove box".

Body is straight, Texas truck, no rust, paint is coming off the top, hood and bed cover but pretty good on the sides and tailgate.

I drove it around after it started real quick on a cold start and ran smooth as silk. Trans shifted flawlessly up and down. I popped the hood, it had a brand new battery and air filter and a fresh oil change sticker on the windshield. Seemed like a well taken care of truck so I went to the bank and got the $. She even filled it with gas for me!!!!!!!!!

I have heard of folks getting great deals but I have never been a recipient of one. Does $3,000 for a good running Tundra that has cold air and all the windows and switches still work constitute a good deal? I think so.

Look forward to perusing the forum for tips to help this truck get another 100,000 miles. Could not be happier.

 

Does a bear crap in the woods?

Welcome, also from Texas!


EDIT: When were the TB and LBJs last changed?

 

Hell yeah!! Change the timing belt, BJ’s and spark plugs and drive the old girl for another 300k what a deal man congrats!

 

Start here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Timing belt/water pump is the big engine killer.
Rusty frame is the big chassis killer.
Non-OEM lower ball joints are the big driver killer/truck totaller.

Start with service records, after you register for the Toyota Owners site with the VIN. More info in that thread.

 

Thanks fellas. I have all the records from when it was new. Had to add sheets of notebook paper to the maint. journal for services as they ran out of room in the book. Even shows mundane things like brake inspections and wiper replacement. It appears the timing belts were changed at 170,000 miles, how often does it need it? I suppose probably now. Are these non-interference motors or if one breaks will the valves play patty cake with the pistons? Oil changes every 5,000 since new. I do not however see trans or rear diff service in the records. Should you change an old transmission's fluid? Back in the 70s and 80s when I was still a kid I recall my dad always said if you go over 100K miles don't change it as the gunk is the only thing holding the trans together. I have not owned an auto trans since the early 90s. Hard to find nowadays. Diff i will do when I heal up. I wrecked my moto the day before i bought this. I guess the universe said "Let's give this guy a break" After getting smashed into the concrete at 30 mph. HAHAHA.

LBJ=Lower ball joints I assume, Hmmmm, I do not know but I will check. Front end feels pretty good, no clunking just a little slop from side to side but truck goes straight. Something i can do I suppose.

Not a speck of rust Shifty. I got un under it and looked about before I bought it. I looked at the tires today, about 1/2 tread and wearing perfectly on Pathfinders. I am not familiar with that brand. I hope they are not cheapo china tires.

I will read the thread, great info.

Again, thanks for the replies fellas.

 

It is an interference engine, but we've had reports of motors surviving a TB break, and some that don't.

LBJ is lower ball joint. Like shifty said, OEM only on those.