**3rd GEN** The one Intake thread to rule them all.

Wanted to compile a variety of information into one thread, as there are multiples questions floating around. Figured we'd get a single spot for all of this.


Closed lid units

These should provide the most gains across the board. Enclosed filters, where suction source is from outside the engine bay will most times outperform an open element in overall performance.




Momentum GT Cold Air Intake System w/ Pro 5R Filters
PN: 50-70100R
Momentum GT Cold Air Intake System w/ Pro 5R Filters | aFe POWER


S&B
PN: 75-5163
Cold Air Intake kit for 2022-2025 Toyota Tundra, 2023-2025 Sequoia V6 – S&B


Magnuson
PN: 31-99-34-005-BL
Toyota Tundra Magnuson Performance Air Intake System – Magnuson Superchargers



Toyota TRD Pro drop in filters.
PN: P/N: PTR03-34220 QTY: 2
TRD High Flow Air Filter Upgrade For 3rd Gen (2022+) Tundra



K&N
Cold Air Intake - High-flow, Roto-mold Tube - TOYOTA TUNDRA V6-3.5L
PN: 63-9042
K&N 63-9042 Performance Air Intake System

 

Open Element Filters

These will produce the most amount of sound, however are going to be more prone to inducting hot air from the engine bay.

K&N
PN: 71-9042
K&N 71-9042 Performance Air Intake System

.


HPS Performance Air Intake Kit with Heat Shield
PN: 827-726P
HPS Performance Cold Air Intake Kit Heat Shield 3rd Gen Toyota Tundra 3.4L Turbo 827-726






Another option which keeps OEM MAF sizing.
https://sxthelement.com/products/tundra-sequoia-cplt-intake

 

Just so you guys don't think I'm talking out of no experience.

I spent the better part of 10 years building my 2012 GTI into something ridiculous.

This was all done through Cobb AccessPort and Eurodyne software (two different iterations).

Car made 403whp on 93 pump and 440whp on E30.

GT3071 and all supporting modifications. Ran methanol injection for a while, then upgraded to a whole Direct Injection setup that replaced the OEM stuff.

datazap.me | Abowers2887 | E30 V1.1

You can check out pretty much all my data logs that I used to tune with on DataZap.

Just some context on this.

 

In relation to the products that change the MAF housing without applying the ability to correct MAF readings, there are several thoughts on it.

While YMMV, generally speaking, its ill advised to stick a MAF sensor calibrated for an OEM sized housing into something that is larger.

TL: DR version of that is this: Your resolution will be off and airflow readings will be potentially skewed due to the mismatch in sizing.

There are some brands that do this...will your engine blow up...probably not, but will it cause some issues with the overall OE tune on the car, there is debate on that. These modern engines with the DME/CPU/PCU monitor MAP, MAF, throttle position, calculated engine load, torque tables etc.. they all work together with one another to provide specific fuel for a specific amount of air going into the engine. Change one of those parameters without scaling or tuning for it, the calculation gets upset.

(Controls engineer by trade.....I do this daily ).




Because Gale Banks is my spirit animal, here is the explanation from the man himself.



MAF Scaling vs MAF Tuning - What's the difference? - MoviChip

 

Anyone ever modify a TRD box to fit a cone filter? Is it doable? I have a TRD and not looking for new setup. Just an idea I had

 

Stillen?

 

Stillen is out of the question. They tried, but the F&F just isn't there.

I myself paid a fraction of the price for TRD Pro filters, fully knowing that air intake isn't a restriction on these engines when looking at air mass per stroke charts on these engines.

For sound, I'm not looking to spend $500.

 

Are we going to add our experiences with each or is it simply to log whats out there?

 

S&B owner synopsis:

Install difficulty: 5/10 due to small/short bolts for brackets to mount the intake tubes. Not really needed though so you could probably omit. Total install time maybe 2 hours
Sound: mild increase over stock, more noticeable in 2k-3k RPM range
Gas milage: decrease of 0.5 MPG
Power gain: ??? Butt dyno modest difference in low end but increased responsiveness
Cons: bulky filter that’s going to be a pain to swap back out, bulky overall box
Feedback: coulda made the design smaller and used smaller filters if no sacrifice in power

overall: happy with price, happy with aesthetics and overall fit (minus the brackets) and would say some power gained just not sure how much. Would recommend to others. Oh and I got oiled filters cause I’m not a believer in running in dry…


Prior to S&B, I had TRD pro air filters which I don’t think did anything TBH

 

K&N
Just over an hour to install, drivers side took the most time due to close quarters,but overall very straight forward.
The hardware is solid, chrome plated over aluminum with SS hose clamps.

Sound is night and day you can really hear it spool up,it sounds way better.

No dyno test so I don't have any proof of HP gains.

Gas mileage N/A due to bigger tires.

Pros:
I absolutely love the sound of it,when getting onto the HWY and you have the roof open back window dropped and you lay into it while driving under a overpass,man there's no better sound than those turbos.

Cons:
There's zero box housing just a shield, so deep water puddle bouncing I'm 100% reluctant do so BC to potential water coming in through the hole in the quarter panel, and they are wide open in the engine bay so ambient temps are getting sucked which equals no bueno.

I do like the newer encased design thou.

Maybe if I trade her in and get a 25 or 26 I would get the housed ones...

 

I’d say add your own experience with it, and I’ll update the first few posts with links to the products.

what’s important is the data in one spot.
I have no way to test all of these. I don’t have the time, money or resources to do that, but if we have empirical data (data logs, .csv files etc) let’s drop those here too.

I spent a considerable amount of time in the GTI realm testing and cataloging and datalogging that car.
But I had an hour long commute on the interstate to grab 4th gear logs in that car (topped out in 4th at 136mph)

I want to dig into MAF and MAP references along with other stuff from these ECU/ECMs to backup data. All things flow into the engine.

 

I've owned 3 intake kits so far.. AFE, Stillshit and now S&B. Not going to touch on TRD drop ins, but thats been my crutch between kits.

AFE was the easiest of the three to install and it looked great but it caused a weird downshift coming to a stop. Turbo sound was great and all but I couldn't live with the weird behavior.

Up next was Stillen and we all know what a piece of shit that kit was, so I'll spare you the drama here.

In comes S&B. By far the most time consuming i stall, but that's because we replace 2 additional pieces. But the juice is worth the squeeze. Everything lined up perfectly, the box sits nice and tight and it just looks awesome. Pieces feel just as solid as AFE, way better fit and finish than Stillshit and hardware is top notch.





I'm not going to comment on hp/mpg gains on any because I didn't dyno any of them and if you claim to feel a 10hp gain on a 6k lb boat, youre a liar.

AFE and S&B have not caused any CEL, nor have they messed with fuel trims. Im running a JB4 with E30 blend on Map 5 (Hottest map) and they all did fine going through the RPM range and not messing with AFR or trims.

OEM box does an amazing job of bringing in outside air into the box and AITs are within a degree or two from ambient. AFE did a good job and I didnt see any increase in temps or heat soak. I do expect a bit of heat soak from the S&B due to the plexi top though. So far, temps have been just like stock, at ambient.

Overall, S&B takes it.

 

Thanks guys for the insights, much appreciated.
Thanks @Daedalus for kicking it off.
It's just difficult to find good info in the "catch-all" threads.
Every once in a while I come up with a good idea.

 

There is something to be said about overall sound on these intakes. I'm personally running the OEM TRD Pro panel filters, with the snow/water grates removed. These are sound deadeners that they put in the boxes to reduce NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from the induction tract.

Wont be anywhere near as loud as the open elements, or even the aftermarket closed ones, but it does allow a bit more spool noise.

 

Having read through the thread on that, i opted to exclude them from the list. There are so many problems with that unit, it would just add to the confusion. IF they get it together and sort everything out, I can add it to the list, but as it stands now, they are not.

 

I'd love to see actual dyno results from any of these contraptions compared to stock.

I'd be very surprised if any of them adds more than 5 HP.

Or, is the true motivation for these just extra turbo noise?

 

Might be a good idea to add PNs to the posts so the thread pops up when people do a search. My Stillen thread is right at the top of google results when you look up the part number. Perfect example of how impactful our threads can be.

 

Honestly,

I think that's mostly the gain. I don't know of anyone who's running aftermarket turbos (if any are available), where these would provide more of an upgrade. My F150 Ecoboost 3.5 was proven to not need an intake until you upgraded those.

 

I did a search and there are 3 shops that are within 80 miles of me that dyno test,I will line up a date,but the thing is I have swapped out my exhaust cat back so that may add some variation to the results.

 

Most of us have an aftermarket exhaust anyways. What youre after is the Delta between oem and aftermarket intakes...the actual # it hits is irrelevant.

Call the shops and ask if they can dyno a 10 speed auto...specially a 6 lug truck.

 

Bingo....Also, has anyone figured out a way to get these transmissions to hold gears better?

The 10spd is so prone to downshifting, its hard to get an accurate estimate of a full pull in one gear. I'd imagine 6th or 7th is 1:1

 

Will do

 

Put in manual mode.

 

Still downshifts. It only caps the max gear you can go in.

Historically I've done pulls from 2k rpm to redline. You try that in manual mode it still downshifts, unless i've missed something.

This gives the best gauge for turbo transiency, and boost onset.

 

Then you run into speed limiter issues too...so the pull cant log the full rpm range.

 

I understand about the default for max gear but have you tried this in tow+,I can't confirm a 100% but didn't think that mine has down shifted on me in manual.

 

Hmm...will try that this afternoon. that would be super nice to have.

 

I asked Payam and Terry (Owner) @ BMS about their dyno runs when the JB4 was released. They turned off trac control, manual mode, 5th gear

 

7th gear is 1:1 and you will hit the speed limiter before 4k RPMs. It’s the same problem I ran into so the graphs/readings were all jacked when I got my truck on the dyno

 

When I was dyno tuning the Tundra, 7th would hit the speed limiter too quick, so 4th seemed to be the best gear for dyno runs. I adjusted all the transmission tables. All 18 shift sets with all 10 upshifts and all 10 downshifts so I can lock the trans in gear without downshifting.