Truck is blowing out smoke but my compression&combustion test came back good

WhiteSR5 · Apr 16, 2025

badass03taco · Apr 16, 2025

All these posts and Chuck from Detroit still hasnt posted feet pix.... No hand pix either...

StrawberryBlowpopPrincess · Apr 16, 2025

StrawberryBlowpopPrincess[OP] said: ↑

I’ll be cranking my truck up at around 5 p.m today. (About 30 minutes after the full “24 hour”:set time: for the RTV)

New O2 sensors
New spark plugs
New PCV valve
New valve cover gaskets
Deep cleaned the throttle bottle
Sprayed down the MAF with CrC maf spray

I’ll be doing a coolant flush sometime in the next few days.

here’s to hoping that some how when I crank up ive cured the smoke issue. Fingers crossed
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UPDATE-

So I cranked my car up today, and was happy to see no smoke out of the tailpipe. I went on about a 30 minute drive and my car is now driving better than it Ever has in the past five years. So it looks like maybe the reason for the smoke could’ve been a combination of the things that I repaired?There’s still a possibility that it was just bad gas. I may truly never know.

Thanks to everybody that helped me out. I truly do appreciate y’all putting up with me.

EDIT- Forgot to mention I scanned the OBD and I am showing no more codes!!! I got ride of these codes

P0135
P0155
P0161

Looks like my truck was throwing those codes because of my O2 sensors, and replacing all 4 fixed that.

Such a weird feeling (weird in a good way) to finally be driving a car with no check engine light hahaha

bpilati · May 23, 2025

KNABORES said: ↑

Bad advice from the mechanic. Your O2 sensors are responsible for efficiency by helping the ECU figure out the best fuel trims. When they fail, the default is rich, which ends up clogging up your cats over time. O2 sensors would cost about $60-80 each for a total of $300 or so to replace them all. Your cats are around double that a piece and there are 4 of them. Also, Getting 11mpg instead of 15mpg due to failed O2 sensors costs you money constantly. Would need more info on your smoke situation and what else has been checked to help more. Have you checked the power steering valve? Have you checked the break booster? Have you read the mega thread???

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/
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Heated O2 sensors cost a lot more.

bpilati · May 23, 2025

StrawberryBlowpopPrincess[OP] initial post: ↑

I drive a 2002 sequoia SR5 with 240k miles. RWD. I post here because it's essentially the same truck, but more traffic on this forum.

The truck started puffing out a ton of smoke on the interstate, so I pulled over and while at idle it looked like a forest fire. I looked at my oil, it was a whole quart low after just changing it 3 days before (and I'm 100% sure I filled it up with the correct amount, I had been using mobile1 religiously, but decided to change to Pennzoil after watching a project farm video ) I topped it up with an extra quart, and After deciding to drive the extra 5 miles home and chance it, the smoke stopped once I got back up to interstate speeds. But now it only blows out the smoke on start-up, I've driven it around the block once or twice to check on it. I can't figure out for the life of me why my truck is blowing out smoke on start-up, sometimes it looks blueish, other times it looks white. My oil doesn't look frothy or dirty, my coolant looks clean and full. I looked for an oil leak and couldn't find one, nor did my cardboard have any oil drops after letting it sit overnight.

When I did the combustion test the liquid stayed blue, so that's good.

Below are the numbers from my compression test.

Cylinder 1- 200/225
Cylinder 2– 165/195
Cylinder 3-200
Cylinder 4-230/225
Cylinder 5– 200
Cylinder 6– 200
Cylinder 7– 160/190
Cylinder 8– 210

I ended up running the numbers twice on the ones that were real low/high because I wasn’t sure if I actually gave it time to reach its top PSI and weirdly enough the second time on the ones that I ran that were low ended up coming back higher.

Was I wrong to run the numbers twice on the ones that seemed “off”? Part of me was just praying and hoping that maybe I didn’t tighten the compression hose in tight enough or that I didn’t give it ample cranking time.

Also, the spark plug from cylinder 3 was covered in oil, on the screw side. What does that indicate? Picture below

Here are the codes from the OBD, they all mention something about O2 sensors, the codes have been on for almost a full year now ( I know I know, not the best idea, but money had been really tight this year, and a "shade tree mechanic" told me not to worry about O2 sensors, they are "only there to help get ya' a couple more miles on a tank")
P0135
P0155
P0161

I have the truck parked until I can solve this issue, but I am at a loss of what to do next.
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You did both a dry and wet compression test?

KNABORES · May 23, 2025

bpilati said: ↑

Heated O2 sensors cost a lot more.
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These are heated. These Do cost $60-80 each for Bosch, a little more for OEM

The Black Mamba · May 23, 2025

badass03taco said: ↑

All these posts and Chuck from Detroit still hasnt posted feet pix.... No hand pix either...
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PHM was good like that too

bpilati · May 24, 2025

KNABORES said: ↑

These are heated. These Do cost $60-80 each for Bosch, a little more for OEM
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I had a Dodge Caravan with a 4-cylinder once that needed an O2 sensor. You know that damn thing wouldn't act right till I spent $75 (then) for an OEM sensor. That car was a prima donna.

bpilati · May 24, 2025

I just realized I'm in the wrong generation thread. I hope this works for my 2020. Sorry guys.

BroHon · May 24, 2025

bpilati said: ↑

I just realized I'm in the wrong generation thread. I hope this works for my 2020. Sorry guys.
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