110k miles maintenance

So I have a 2019 sr5 with 110k miles and want to take this spring to do some preventative maintenance. Over the fall I had ALL fluids replaced at the dealer. New tires and brakes all the way around recently.

I want to replace the shocks just as a preventative measure but unsure if that’s even necessary. It’s my daily driver and we tow a camper so I want to stay ahead of all this.

I have had no issues at all honestly. But am wondering what I should do regarding alternator, radiator, timing chain, etc……should I consider proactively addressing these before they go bad? And how about oxygen sensors? Should I replace?

I am just trying to see what makes sense as I plan on keeping this truck for a long time……

 

Did all the fluids include brake fluid?

 

yes literally every possible fluid hahaha. It’s wanted to make sure I didn’t miss anything

 

Spark plugs have been done? PCV? Serp belt and tensioner would be something to consider.

 

None of those have been done…..are they easy enough to do with proper tools and a garage?

 

How strongly do you feel about the belt tensioner being done at certain intervals (regardless of its performance)? You know is it as strong as say Replace LBJs on 1st gens every 100k for example - Just curious.

 

You da man!

 

If the belt is in good shape, not cracked or shiny, and there is no sign of squeaking I’d be okay letting it ride. I just like to have the parts on hand for things I can count on failing. Both my Tundra and LandCruiser had belt chirp around 100k miles that resolved with a tensioner, idler, belt swap.

 

Yes - basic metric tools and some patience is all it takes.

 

My LX got its first replacement tensioner at 170-something k miles.

Maybe every 175k miles for good measure

 

So would you start with spark plugs just for good measure? That’s simple and cheap enough for peace of. How hard is pcv valve? I don’t know that I would be confident doing the belt and tensioner on my own - I know I could do it but it’s my daily driver and if I get hung up I can’t be out of commission for a day.

 

Spark plug change is far harder (read: more time consuming, requires more tools and more work) than PCV valve and belt/tensioner.

PCV valve takes 30 seconds.

If you’re under the truck with no skid plate in the way, you can reach a 14mm (I think) socket up and compress the tensioner spring, then stick a 5mm Allen key into the slot at the bottom to lock it open. From there, the belt swap is a 2 minute job.

With the tensioner locked open, it’s a really easy swap. I think it’s just 14mm and 12mm bolts.

EDIT: It’s actually the 12mm bolt and a small (10mm?) hex bolt that holds the tensioner onto the front of the engine. Circled:

 

Ok so maybe I will watch a video and see what I am up for…..sounds like it is easy enough.

 

I second what has been said about plugs, PCV, belt, and tensioners. Normally I suggest inspecting muffler bearings and topping off blinker fluid, but I think you might not need it…

My ‘13 went way too long on the belt and tensioner; I planned to replace them around 120k miles but stretched it out to a bit more until it squawked at me when cold.. at 170k miles… eek. It was well done with a crunchy bearing but intact. My sequoia needed it at 100k. NEEDED IT. BAD. So your mileage will vary, but I’d suggest doing it.

Plugs are pretty straightforward and, IMO, pretty easy compared to a lot of other vehicles I’ve worked on. An assortment of extensions and swivels will help a lot. It also helps to remove the air cleaner lid and intake pipe for the passenger side.

As for shocks, I would also replace them - at least the rears since they are so simple and because you tow. IME, shocks rarely die an ignominious death, but usually fade out of existence. They will cling on to life, making you think they still work, when in reality they worked very poorly. Replacing them has virtually always been a night and day difference for me. I don’t usually see more than 60k miles from shocks. My sequoia shocks were blown, leaking, and virtually non-functional at 80k miles from the previous owner. My 6112’s went to 100k miles and were faded but functional; the 5160’s paired with them were very much dunzo..

As I’m sure you know, suspension can be a rabbit hole. Stock is fine. Aftermarket is usually an improvement. Pick your budget and decide what you want out of them. 5100’s are hard to beat for the monies on a stockish vehicle that tows.

 

I do cars on youtube is the way I did it. I think its a 5mm.
Shame that I've done it can't remember.

 

Ok so I ordered new spark plugs, pcv valve and vent tensioner from Fred Anderson with the sale going. They didn’t have the belt listed on their website but I can pick up one locally at the dealership. That should keep me busy for a weekend when they arrive

 

Small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the spark plugs is always a good idea too IMO, did you get denso or ngk plugs?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/sho...on-new-spark-plugs.102501/page-2#post-2636758

 

Thermostat. A cheap part that does a lot and will create huge problems if not working.

 

Well in that case - I will submit another inexpensive part that also can create havoc and confusion of lots of folks - replacing the radiator cap with a Genuine OEM one (from a dealer)...

 

No antisieze on spark plug threads unless otherwise specified. Use OEM plugs.

For preventive maintenance at 110k, (assuming not recently replaced) plugs, PCV, air filter, belt+tensioner

I like to clean throttle body and MAF with air filter changes, but it’s not necessary (can be messed up if not careful)

The above are the routine maintenance checks that can leave you stranded.

As far as chassis/suspension goes, inspect, service and replace as necessary. Keep a close eye on service items like u-joints and brakes. You’re getting at the age when deferred maintenance can start causing worn parts to fail… I.e. neglected U-joints can fail and leave you stranded, a leaky shock, generally, will not.

ETA: the post above is spot on about the cooling system. Replacing the thermostat can be cheap insurance. Check hoses (all of them) for softening/bulging. Probably going to ok unless the engine bay was “detailed” with rubber dressing.

I’ve only had one failure that left my wife stranded on the highway.. burst heater hose on a Saturn Outlook (GMC Acacadia) at ~9 years/100kish miles

 

Ordered thermostat and radiator cap. I have the reusable trd air filter and cleaned last weekend. So I will have:
New spark plugs
New pcv valve
New radiator cap
New thermostat
New tensioner
Will pick up new belt at dealership this week

Not sure I want to mess with the maf sensor as I don’t want to f it up. What’s the proper cleaning process for that?

The engine bay has never been cleaned or treated with rubber conditioner, but I will definitely inspect the hoses.

 

Personally… my opinion based on using serviceable/reusable air filters is they are a poor choice over OEM filters.

I don’t know the specific filter you have, but I would stick with an OEM or OEM style aftermarket (Wix) filter.

 

Its an oem trd filter ; trd cai installed since the first month I got the truck

 

I replaced the spark plugs; pcv valve, new radiator cap and thermostat will be here today. Those will get done this weekend. Took the truck in for a 4 wheel alignment as well to try to extend my tire life. I had the mechanic inspect the serpentine belt and tensioner while it was in - he said it looked great and there was no sign of cracking or play. I have the parts and will periodically inspect and replace when needed.

 

I had plugs, all fluids, serp belt, and a fuel system cleaning done at 110k. Buddy who’s a tech at Toyota said that’s about all it needs unless something is having issues. Generally he sees very few issues with the 5.7 and hates the new turbo motors with a passion.

 

I got the thermostat and radiator cap today. It’s raining now so I won’t tackle the thermostat until the weekend. But does this radiator cap look right? Is it oem?