Truck is blowing out smoke but my compression&combustion test came back good

This is my shopping list so far from RockAuto ... How does it look? I tried to go with the Best brands possible as recommended by you guys... I drive a 2002 Sequoia rwd,

Is this everything that I will need? I already have MAF spray cleaner, and a seafoam throttle body cleaner as well so I don't think I need to add those to my shopping list because they're still pretty full. I already know how to clean the MAF, but I would love a video on cleaning the throttle body out, I'm afraid I'm a damage the butterfly

 

Just don't open the throttle plate and then let it slam shut.

There are plenty videos out there according to if you wish to clean in place, partially remove or total remove and clean it. I don't have to clean mine often but when I do, it's a total removal. This is a total remove video and plenty of those. Search for many more if wish...."4.7L Throttle Body cleaning"

 

That's one of the two videos I like.

I just clean-in-place. I don't think it's necessary to remove, personally. But everyone has their thing.

 

Do the Denso part numbers match what you get at www.densoautoparts.com using their lookup tool?

 

Thank you for showing me that. Looks like I got it right! I’m excited to get started on my little project.

Besides the parts im ordering, is there anything else, that is considered “easy” for a beginner, that I should go ahead and change out? I already changed the PCV valve the other day, so that’s out of the way. I also plan on flushing out my coolant/radiator. Doing a full flush with the distilled water, but I wanted to ask if I should buy one of those “coolant flushing additives” or will distilled water be enough? I plan on usuing the zerek brand of coolant, I heard that’s what Toyota uses in some of their shops.

thanks again everyone for all the help. You guys are a serious life saver for people like me who can’t necessarily afford to go to the mechanic for every little thing. Plus it’s fun fixing on my truck, I have found a new life long hobby. This forum is starting to feel like “home”

 

Don’t waste your money on additives. Generally speaking, they are snake oil, in some cases they can cause damage.

There are some exceptions for specific applications, but they are not going to “fix” anything that requires repair.

One example is upper intake/induction cleaners. Done properly, this can be effective for cleaning minimizing deposits on valves on some engines (direct injected) if done at regular intervals… but, if you have this done for the first time at 100k (a common service upsell), be prepared to replace catalytic converters. Sea Foam type cleaners added through the intake falls into this category.

Techron and other PEA-based fuel system cleaners work as advertised, but you have to use them regularly at the correct dosage. The same effect can be had by consistently using Top Tier fuels. Adding a bottle of Techron to the El Cheapo gas you’ve been running for the past 20 years isn’t going to fix dirty injectors overnight.

 

I have somebody that is recommending the “Mahle” brand for the valve cover gasket over the “Felpro” brand. But I wanted to get you guys’s opinion on that first. They told me the Mahle is a closer to OEM fit, and cheaper (I always like it when the cheaper brand out preforms the expensive)

EDIT- which brand of RTV sealant do you guys recommend for valve cover gasket job?

 

Whoever recommended MAHLE is probably into VW or BMW or P-cars. They're a really popular gasket for that scene. It's a solid brand.

Fel-Pro is a really popular gasket in the American and muscle car scene, which is where I'm coming into Toyota from a lifetime on this planet. It's a solid brand.

You won't be able to beat OEM. I would just remind you. Your OEM gaskets currently installed are probably original, and they're lasted, how long now? 22 years? So I'd ask: Why in the fuck wouldn't you just buy OEM again, knowing it may last you another 22 years?

Here's the one thing I'll tell you: MAHLE, Fel-Pro ... they can and will change their material sourcing at any time, without any customer notice. This is what Moog has clearly done, Moog has been outsourcing everything to the cheapest bidder going on 10-15 years now, and their part quality has gone down the shitter, despite all the people still gushing about how great their stuff is. Toyota has pretty strict guidelines on their part manufacture, and they rarely ever change any of their material sources, they are expected to maintain the quality of their part out of necessity (brand reputation). Their rubber is known to outlast 5x over the Chubber (Chinese rubber) many cheaper parts are using these days, which will dry rot and crack within a year or three.

Everything is in the thread I linked. Reply #59. 2nd comment. Click the link. Process and RTV reco is there. All OEM part numbers are there too.

That FIPG is good for multiple jobs on our trucks.

 

OEM.


Unless you enjoy doing shit twice.

 

How did I do on the RTV sealer for my valve cover and dielectric grease for my spark plugs? (I know you guys recommend Toyota OEM RTV but this stuff will still work right? Or am I taking a risk?)



Also I plan on using this for the coolant flush.



EDIT: is 3 gallons enough coolant for my 2002 sequoia? Also how many gallons of distilled water for about 2 or 3 flush’? Im thinking at least 9 gallons of distilled water for 3 full flush’s is what I’ll need right?

 

I used the search feature and can’t find the torque specs for these. Safe to say the search function is not user friendly

Does anyone have these torque specs (specifically for a 2002 sequoia)

O2 sensors (I assume all 4 are the same spec)
Spark plugs

Valve cover gasket bolts are (54 inch pounds) right?

 

In the FSM linked in the mega thread for download.

 

How funny. I just searched 'this forum only' for 'torque specs' and I found one of the dozens of times you replied with nearly the same comment. https://www.tundras.com/threads/torque-specs.145495/

The valve cover torque specs are in the 'everything you need to know about valve cover change' reply.

 

How in the world do I navigate the FSM from that link? It only lets me go through it one page at a time, and with over 2,000 pages thats a lot of scrolling.

Surely im missing something, there has to be a better way to read the FSM other than just scrolling down by the individual page

 

If you regard that as an Herculean task then perhaps picking up wrenches and striding towards a vehicle is not on your talent list.

Just a thought...

 

Grab you a dose of "want to".

All pdf's such as our FSM's and EWD's come with a "Table of Content". Start by clicking on the little direction arrow, then the bookmark tab....etc.

In the 03 FSM, follow the buttons below and you'll find the section you'll need to look in...."Service Specifications". Yes, it does not spoon feed you all the way to the actual torque specs you're interested in but it's close enough if you're really interested in finding what you want.

Find a pair so you can maintain your Sequoia without someone having to hold your hand.

 

If what Bubba said isn't the problem... and it's a matter of "stuck online flipping through pages", then I'd say you and everyone else should be doing this to download a physical copy to your computer.

• Click to open the FSM using the link in the megathread.
• At the supplied link, once the file opens in your browser, click this little circled icon to download the PDF.
• Go to your file downloads, and open the PDF file; if you don't have a PDF reader on your computering device, Foxit is free, safe, and better than Adobe.

​

 

Suddenly something I was recently saying to @Tundra2 about fixing threaded insert repairs is ringing in my brain...

 

so I just got my order from rock auto and it looks like my downstream O2 sensors are the wrong ones… I double checked on the Denso website to make sure the part number was the same as what I was ordering on rock auto. I double and triple checked, and confirmed with about two or three other people that I was ordering the right stuff according to parts numbers when I’m looking at the downstream O2 sensors on my truck, a 2002 Toyota Sequoia RWD, it does not have the gasket like this one in the picture from rock auto. I’m learning a hard lesson to always look at the part I’m ordering before I place an order. But what is going on here? Why in the world do all these websites say my downstream is supposed to have the gasket when it doesn’t? Is there something I’m missing here? Denso doesn’t even sell the “correct” ones on rock auto from what I see. I just hope that rock auto’s return policy is easy

 

Looks just like my downstream sensors did.

 

This is what my downstream looks like

 

I must be missing something here? From the way I’m looking at it. My upstream and downstream look exactly the same

 

When you were Donald whats his face member, one of your first posts showed a non-OEM muffler/exhaust. We can no longer get to that picture. Can you show us that picture again ?

 

Yeah I’m an idiot, I need to SLOWWWWWWWW down and take my time. Once I really looked at it I figured out just what I was missing. It looks like everything is OK and I have learned a good lesson of just taking my time and not just jumping shit as soon as a new little inconvenience, pops up

 

You want me to take a picture of my exhaust? And yeah that’s funny. Remember my first username they banned me for it. I thought It was a funny joke, Donald trumps EAR. But apparently the mods didn’t think it was funny… I hate it because I literally don’t even keep up with politics at all in any way shape or form

 

Is that not exactly what you showed us you received?

 

That is the old one that is on there in that picture. The reason it scared me is because it has the bolt on it and the new one doesn’t but I’m guessing that bolt comes off and I just put it on the new one right?

 

The new one does not have that what I circled in the red and that is what scared me

 

It's not needed, take the nuts off to remove.

 

It looks like my buddy in California, who put those O2 sensors on that you see on the truck right now, the old ones, was not as smart as I thought he was. And he was a prior engineer for Tesla, and current one at Google… kid was seriously smart, but I guess he was the type to try and save a penny anywhere he could…

Shifty is right, Don’t buy anything from SCAMazon, That is where my old O2 sensors came from.